No se ven las fotos :-(by misan - RepRap en Español
Acceleration control means that desired speed is achieved through a progressive increase/decrease in the steps pace. Conversely, not having acceleration means that stepper is driven at a constant pace which is the desired speed. As there is some mass involved here, you need a lot of torque on your motor to be able to "instantaneously" accelerate to target speed your axis in the first step. That iby misan - General
You open the file with .pde extension and the rest will appear as other folders in the Arduino IDE. misanby misan - General
Estupendo Yamagata. Puede que se hayan puesto las pilas en mendel-parts, y es que si quieren vender la Orca v0.4 tendrán que empezar a cumplir con los plazos que anuncian en su web. misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Me temo que el problema es que estas resinas cuestan varios cientos de euros el litro (o eso he leído). misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Yo tengo la impresora en la UPV, y no es una cosa para llevar bajo el brazo :-) así que podemos hacer la mañana viendo la Prusa y la BFB (y luego podemos tomar una cerveza :-) misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Este sábado no puedo, os propongo el próximo (21-1) por la mañana a las 10.by misan - RepRap en Español
Yamagata: Yo tengo funcionando mi Prusa con dos motores de impresoras Epson antiguas en los ejes X e Y (uso cojinetes lineales de bolas LM8UU) sin problema aunque no deben de terner más de 1kg-cm de par. El eje Z necesita algo más y también el extrusor. Si puedes conseguir los motores gratis yo no me lo pensaría y haría la prueba. Puesto que los Pololu regulan la corriente que entregan no hay riby misan - RepRap en Español
- 14 years agoLanthan: That is consistent with current source code in pins.h that while it does define a non -1 value for X_MAX for RAMPS 1.3 it does define the same pin as -1 for RAMPS 1.2 misanby misan - General
Similar a la makerbot está la Ultimaker: pero como están en Europa te ahorras pagar aduanas. Sin embargo no es la opción más barata y sigue siendo un kit que tienes que montar. Ya montadas he leído buenas críticas de la UP!: Yo estoy terminando de montar una Prusa y en breve le estaré buscando un nuevo hogar :-) Saludos, misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Hola Pedro y compañía: Podemos quedar cuando queráis. Tengo que ir a ver la BFB de mifervi y creo que ya nos hemos conocido :-) Saludos, misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Esta fue mi compra y los tengo funcionando en una Prusa que estoy terminando de montar. [:RTQ:US:1123#ht_2321wt_1141" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">cgi.ebay.com] Los ejes puede que sean algo más cortos que otros, así que he suprimido la tuerca entre el soporte del motor del eje Y y la arandela grande del rodamiendo justo encima del motor, para ganar unos 5mm, con respecto al las "Visual Instrby misan - RepRap en Español
- 14 years agoParabolic: did you check the ones for RAMPS board (33)? I've been through a couple of versions of Marlin (0.9 and 1.0beta) maybe I sent you 0.9 ... don't know. misanby misan - General
Supongo que son de eBay. Yo he comprado a un tal tony202511 y me ha llegado rápido pero los ejes de los motores en ese caso eran de 4mm cuando lo normal en NEMA 17 son 5mm. Así que he tenido que volver a imprimir las poleas dentadas para ese tamaño. La cifra que tienes que mirar es el holding torque que sea entorno a los 4kg-cm y la corriente menor de 2A y la tensión menor de 12V (algunos son deby misan - RepRap en Español
I did have the same problem with my Y-axis (I put the end-stop in the MAX position without really knowing it or telling it to the firmware, where it was acting as Y_MIN). My prints were mirrored too. I fiddle with Sprinter firmware for a while but I've got the impression that I had to choose either MIN or MAX for all my endstops at once. I did not find a way for homing at (X_MIN,Y_MAX) while myby misan - General
- 14 years agoI have checked my pins.h code and my X & Y_MAX_PIN where not set to -1 while Z_MAX_PIN was -1, so that explains why I was just seeing the "right" behavior in Z-axis only. misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoTHanks.by misan - General
- 14 years agoOops! I've just tested mine: It does the same thing! It seems it is the normal behavior for X & Y axis (Z-axis does go back and down again after touching the endstop). I just haven't realized of that before. misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoIf it hits the endstop and it is not reacting to it, maybe it expects to have the endstop in the MAX position instead of the MIN (or the opposite). misanby misan - General
Yamagata: Me alegro de que haya habido suerte con mendel-parts. También he comprado en RapRapWorld y no he tenido problema (excepto un par de StepSticks que me salieron defectuosos y que me cambiaron sin coste adicional). Además de comprar la electrónica puedes aprovechar el pedido para pedir algo de filamento, ya que tiene el PLA muy bien de precio. Yo acabo recibir de ellos un Sanguinolu paraby misan - RepRap en Español
It may well be a problem with the z-axis speed. If you try to move it too fast it may not work at all. Did you fix it? misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoAnd the bed thermistor will close the regulation loop meaning that nichrome resistor is not on all the tim. Once the desired temperature is met the resistor is switch off for a while. This contributes to the resistor not getting red hot too. misanby misan - General
Depending on where you are based shipping and customs may get in the way of a given alternative. You do not have to solder if you do now want to, as there are pre-built electronics and end-stops. I think that a Prusa Mendel is a popular choice for a reason. I'd go with that first. And if price is a problem, this kit seems really affordable: misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoIf the resistance is too low the power supply will not be able to handle such a high current and may shutdown (or deliver a much lower voltage instead). Yes, if you connect 1 or 2 ohms of nichrome to D10 it should get very hot (be careful with that, as without thermistor it will not be switched off after reaching any temperature). misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoWith this wire you can connect the power for the heated bed to the two legs of the sides (not to the center and one side). Disconnect the two sides connected by the red wire and connect leave the central (blue) wire disconnected. misanby misan - General
- 14 years agobrnrd: I think the number after W in M105 responses shows the wait time before printing. When it reaches 0 a pending M109 command will end and your print will start. I guess this is the delay some of you mentioned here. There is a delay (default 30 seconds) since target temperature is reached till this timer goes off. You can see it counting down while waiting for a print to begin if you enable mby misan - General
- 14 years agoOk, then I think your wiring work is correct. The circuit does not work because your wire has much lower resistance than required here. Depending on how you have "measured" the current, a MOSFET might be dead in your RAMPS board (if you measured in the heated) or not (if you measured on the power supply). You did not mention what power supply ... do not forget that heated bed will require frby misan - General
- 14 years agoOk, that means every inch is 0.4ohm. According to your drawing you have 22 legs of four inches aprox (1.6ohms each) in parallel. That gives a total of 0.07ohm. The 0.3ohm your meter shows is likely the resistance of the probes. You need to have something around 1-3ohm total. So you can try just a loop of 10 inches. Unfortunately it wil be kind of small. Or you can put two loops of 20 inches inby misan - General
- 14 years agoAnd what is the resistance of four inches of your nichrome wire? (if you can measure 10 inches, or more, even better but tell us the length you've measured too). misanby misan - General
- 14 years agoIt seems that the side away from the connector goes over the central wire causing a short at the connector. Or is that wire insulated? Sorry I can't tell from the picture.by misan - General