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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Heated bed doesnt work 
- 14 years ago
From the wiki: QuoteCheck the heater resistance. If you wired it as two parallel circuits as I did, each half should be 3 ohms. If you have done it as a single circuit it should be 1.5 ohms. Connect up the heater. Only 0.3Ohms indicate something is wrong and you have a short somewhere. A picture of your layout may help diagnose the problem. misanby misan - General
Re: Proyecto clone wars - 14 years ago
Obijuan: yo he montado una Prusa 2 estas fiestas con idea de venderla montada y la tengo a falta del hotend. El único problema es que yo no pondría una tuerca entre la sujeción del motor del eje Y y el cojinete que guía la cinta. Si la pones o tienes un motor con un eje superlargo o no llega bien. Saludos, misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Re: Proyecto clone wars - 14 years ago
Varias de personas han dado buenos informes sobre la orca v0.3 de en los foros. Es una empresa India. misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Re: How is Mendel-parts still in business? - 14 years ago
Did anyone explore this way: ? Sometimes these consumer protection bureaus may rule in favor of consumers without you filing a lawsuit and that means that you may not have to pay a dime. Just my two cents, misanby misan - General
Re: Proyecto Prusa aire en Pamplona - 14 years ago
Yamagata: un par de comentarios a vuestro proyecto: Supongo que el aluminio y su mecanización os sale gratis y por eso contempláis esa opción como más barata ¿no? Lo digo porque las varillas M8 cuestan poco más de un Euro en la ferretería y hacen falta seis... En cualquier caso creo que os puede quedar una estructura muy robusta con aluminio. Estaré atento a vuestro desarrollo. El segundo tema eby misan - RepRap en Español
Re: Proyecto clone wars - 14 years ago
En la Politécnica de Valencia creo que la mía es la primera Prusa, aunque en un instituto tecnológico tenían una RepMan antes. Varios compañeros se han interesando en montarse una, imagino que en breve se moverá el tema. Espero que gustara la felicitación de año nuevo :-) Muy chulo vuestro proyecto Clone Wars Saludos, misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Negative X,Y,Z values allowed? - 14 years ago
While changing extruder and firmware I crashed my hotend into the bed twice. I later found out the cause was a negative Z value in my gcode, as the stl file was now "on top" of the bed in the first place. My bad. I am not sure if all the firmwares are equally happy about going to the "negative" side of the axis, but as I am using MIN endstops it is not mechanically possible to go to negative cooby misan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: prints reseting - 14 years ago
I have just moved to Marlin and I have liked it a lot. My prusa now shakes a lot less than with Sprinter. Now that you are changing firmware you might want to give it a try. misanby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: stepper motor - 14 years ago
QuoteElidor > misan - i getting lots of complaints about the > orca extruder and you are the only one that say > that yours working fine > > so i guess the motors that i have will work fine ? > the only problem is that the 0.45 kilo of the > 100 oz could be a problem ' maybe thats why maker > not using a static extruder ???!!!! I'm not using mendel-parts hot-end butby misan - General
Re: stepper motor - 14 years ago
@Elidor: I think X and Y axis can work nicely with that motor if linear ball bearings are used. I'm using a 0.44Nm motor for a direct drive extruder @1.3A. Your choice is even better for the job (so hopefully you can drive it below 1A and keep everything cool). But at any rate, I would not buy 50 pcs without doing a test build first. Good luck, misanby misan - General
Re: Extruder pinch wheel - New Orca 
- 14 years ago
Ok, now I have everything working, not without some trouble as direct drive of 3mm filament for 0.5mm nozzle needs more than 1A for a Zapp Automation 1684B stepper. More info and video: misanby misan - General
Re: Extruder pinch wheel - New Orca - 14 years ago
I have received and installed the brass insert in a direct drive extruder and it works nicely. I can recommend it. misanby misan - General
Re: How is Mendel-parts still in business? - 14 years ago
Apparently someone is already selling Orca v0.3 clones: Please note I've just read about this on the forums: I have yet to hear any feedback good or bad about their product. misanby misan - General
Re: Final push to get it running - 14 years ago
I think PLA is easier than ABS: lower temperature, heated bed not mandatory, no bad smell.by misan - Reprappers
Re: Extruder pinch wheel - New Orca - 14 years ago
I read about this site and I've bought a couple of them at less than two pounds each. But I have not yet received them so I cannot provide more info. misanby misan - General
Re: Teacup, Pronterface, Sfact... oh my! - 14 years ago
Ross: It is unclear to me whether you've done the extruder calibration on your machine or not. If not, you have to do this first and put the proper steps/mm value in your firmware's configuration file. I did not know that and my printer was spitting way too much plastic on my first attempts. Regarding gcode, once a file is created no matter what changes you do to skeinforge it won't affect toby misan - Reprappers
Re: Pasos tras montaje mecánico de Prusa - 14 years ago
Por lo que cuentas parece que tu fuente no puede bien con la carga. Así que posiblemente la temperatura del hotend no puede llegar al valor necesario una vez conectas el hotbed para fundir bien el ABS. Si la temperatura del hotend no es suficiente entonces el material no puede salir por la boquilla y el motor perderá pasos pues por mucho que empuje el filamento no saldrá. Un motor más potente enby misan - RepRap en Español
Re: Una duda.... - 14 years ago
Básicamente hay dos opciones, las placas Gen6 (7) que incluyen procesador y zócalos para los pololus o bien una placa Arduino Mega en la que se conecta la placa RAMPS que contiene los zócalos para conectar los pololus (drivers de los motores paso a paso). Al final las dos se programan como un Arduino pues llevan procesadores de la misma familia. Saludos, misanby misan - RepRap en Español
Re: Motors don't move RAMPs 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + Sprinter Kliment + Pronterface - 14 years ago
You can use your soldering iron to detach the old wires, just heat up the solder joints and pull the wires out once tin is melted. misanby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Motors don't move RAMPs 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + Sprinter Kliment + Pronterface - 14 years ago
You have to measure what is the voltage fall on the cable from the supply to the board. If more than 0.4 volts then you definitely have to change the wiring for a thicker one. Of course, it may well be a problem of your supply voltage to be to low to start with, due to an unbalance load (only loading 12v rail but not 5 or 3.3v as it was mentioned before). misanby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: call to all RepRap machines - 14 years ago
The point I was trying to make is that it takes a long time to print a set of parts. People outside of reprap community may have the wrong impression this is just as a fast laser printer and you have the parts printed in half an hour. Given the many adjustments that can be made to the firmware and slicing process and the variety of printers out there I understand printing times are not a comby misan - Reprappers
Re: Motors don't move RAMPs 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + Sprinter Kliment + Pronterface - 14 years ago
Just one resistor between 5V(red wires) and GND (black wires) and another one between 3.3V and GND should show you some improvement. 12V 50W halogen lamps are another choice for dummy loads. misanby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: call to all RepRap machines - 14 years ago
Hadrian: Just one detail, spitting out (as you say) a Prusa set of plastic parts takes a long time (I'd say around 24h in a Prusa Mendel). I am sure you'll get them in the forum though. misanby misan - Reprappers
Re: Motors don't move RAMPs 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + Sprinter Kliment + Pronterface - 14 years ago
RAMPS does support more than 12 Volts. What it is a problem is if you go beyond 20 volts AND your Mega is powered from that voltage too (D1 is soldered). But you do not need an adjustable or regulated power supply for this (this gets expensive). As nophead mentions, PC power supplies will give you enough voltage if you put a dummy load on 5V and 3.3V rails. But if you go for a higher voltage pby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: stepper motors build up heat - 14 years ago
@Ross: Stepper drivers are mostly based on Pololu/Stepstick drivers that have only one enable signal. Motor is either energized or not. There is not a position holding state different than the enable state. Heat builds up proportional to the current through the motor coils. Steppers should be operated with the lowest current possible (that does not compromise its task). This way you will get asby misan - Reprappers
Re: single arduino reprap - 14 years ago
Remember that a Stepstick/Pololu is around $10, they do a great job. Using a geared motor may be a problem in the long run as the print speed might suffer. 3D printing already takes a lot with "fast" repraps. Threaded rods are also a way to get a slow axis drive, if you combine that with a geared stepper it should be ultra slow. I know what it is to do things on a shoe string budget but I thby misan - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS Z only one direction, extruder doesn't heat - 14 years ago
One way direction only use to be caused by a missing connection or the absence of the end stop (or an error on your Configuration.h regarding that end-stop). Does Z-axis react to home button/command? The little led on the corner of RAMPS 1.4 is for the fan (if I remember correctly). Sprinter does lit the green power led once the heater is on. If the green led is lit and no heat happens then it mby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Motors don't move RAMPs 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + Sprinter Kliment + Pronterface - 14 years ago
Congratulations on your solving of the problem. I'm sure that now your prusa is much quieter because of the microstepping. misanby misan - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Final push to get it running - 14 years ago
@Cynic-al: I presume the extruder is not working from Proterface button. Till this is not working I won't be surprised if it does not work while printing. I guess some of the mechanics is not quite right yet. I would check the temperature of the hotend, that the hot-end extrude hole is clear, then that you can extrude by pushing the filament with your hand into the hotend, that the motor turns wiby misan - Reprappers
Re: Cual es la mejor Electronica? actualmente - 14 years ago
Yo te recomiendo que utilices una electrónica que permita reemplazar fácilmente los drivers (stepsticks o pololu) de potencia de los motores porque son elementos que pueden averiarse, sobre todo durante la instalación y fase de pruebas iniciales (muchas veces por mal uso). La opción Arduino es la más sencilla, pues el Arduino ya viene con el cargador instalado. (Pero lo mismo va a pasar si compby misan - RepRap en Español