gnomadix Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I tested the motors with mechanical end stops > installed using X + Y 100,10,1 commands from > Pronterface, the motors responded seemingly > correctly and on the last test stopped after > hitting the endstops (mostly) They will get to the stop, reverse just a little then go back to the endstop more slowly. Tby grog - Reprappers
mw120026 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When the extruder is heated, filament will flow from lower and upper of nozzle Do you mean the melted filament oozes out the top or do you mean when you click the reverse button in pronterface that the filament will reverse as expected? > filament : PLA 3.0mm measure your filament to make sure it is 3.0. Mine is 2.by grog - General
How close in height is the printed object compared to what it is supposed to be? The Z steppers might need a bit of adjusting. If it is going too high, the layers won't be put down on each other nicely.by grog - Reprappers
In the US for metric tape measures, other than McMaster, try Fastenal, Rockler or Lee Valley.by grog - General Mendel Topics
It also depends on what modification you want to do. If I just want to scale it or combine with something else I can use OpenSCAD and do an import. It has to be in the OpenSCAD folder. For example: translate([10,-10,5])scale([2,2,2])import_stl("filename.stl");by grog - 3D Design tools
Has it started talking to you or waved at you yet? Could it be ABS residue? Did you make sure to really purge the ABS before going to PLA and running at a lower temp? And when you say leaking, is it oozing from the nozzle or leaking from up higher?by grog - General
I got a spatula from the artist supply place. It is used to spread paint on a canvas so is too thin and flexible to lever things off the bed. But because it is so thin it is easier to get under the print without gouging it and then I twist a bit to get it started. It is then easier to get my wedge (similar Buback's spatula) under to pry it up.by grog - Printing
My version is 11.11.08. But how do I know how that compares to when people refer to SF45 or such?by grog - Skeinforge
That worked. Thanks for the help. Sorry I didn't find the command earlier.by grog - Repetier
I'm working on switching from Sprinter to Repetier, but need some help. Apparently, I need to invert my extruder direction. The settings I believe are used in Sprinter are: // For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1 #define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // Inverting axis direction const bool INVERT_E_DIR = true; I tried inserting these into Repetier but it doesnby grog - Repetier
I want to update my Skeinforge. I know where to get the most recent version. But I haven't been able to find how to update it. I also want to back up my profile and settings, just in case, but I don't see where the file is located. The Skeinforge directory within my Printrun folder doesn't show that any of the Skeinforge files have been update or modified since I installed it. I haven'tby grog - Skeinforge
I'm glad you aren't naming names. Unless you have some proof that they were the ones that got hacked, it isn't right. Last summer all 3 of my cards got compromised and had fraudulent charges on them within a few days. My Visa credit & Visa debit from my bank and my Amex card. I didn't use all 3 of them at the same merchant, and all of my amex purchases were with companies I'd bought from bby grog - General
I believe that is on the limit tab if you're using skeinforge, turn it off. The head will move to start much faster now.by grog - RepRap Host
I got Marlin to compile with Arduino 0023, and loaded to the board. Checked to make sure the baud rate matched in the firmware and pronterface and the motors don't move the axes smoothly. They will move, but very noisy and shudderly (like my new word?). Sounds horrible. Any suggestions?by grog - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The top layers look like the filament isn't being put down evenly. There are thick and thin spots. When you opened up the extruder did it seem to be feeding ok? Were there any little chips of filament in there? If you turn the extruder gears manually does it feed ok? The layer offset problems could also be caused by the filament not feeding in properly. How is it mounted? If it is pulling toby grog - Reprappers
MarkMills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- I can get the printer to map > out the 20mm box and the extruder spills out a > stream of PLA that seems to ball up around the > print head. Maybe that is because I am not > printing on to a surface but have the head 5 cm or > so from the print bed. Would this seem a > reasonable assumption? This is a resoby grog - General
aardvark Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The best bet it seems would be to vacuum form my > model and then pour chocolate into the mold. I've been thinking of that also, but for things other than chocolate or candles. Thoughts if you use a mold: 1. If you are going to do a lot of multiples one item, a mold would be a lot faster. 2. repeatable 3. doesn'tby grog - General
With the translucent colors it is harder to see the flaws and blobs. For tuning, that can be a problem. But different colors seem to melt at different temps. I'm in the US and really like the filament Ultimachine sells. The white and red do seem to work better at a lower temp than a the translucent blue, green or natural.by grog - General
I can't answer your question about shrinkage, although I don't believe it shrinks that much compared to the accuracy needed. You really should check out Richrap's and Nophead's blogs. They do very good jobs with testing and tweaking and analyzing the results. Helps you with how the printer works and what to expect. Gary Hodgson also has good information on his blog. PWOT: Perimeter Width ovby grog - General Mendel Topics
Do you have them both printing at the same time? Our Prusa has Gen 6 and when I'm printing with pronterface (over a USB cable) it will pause or slow if I am working the PC very much. I forget the specs of that PC other than it is old enough that it still has WinXP.by grog - General
1) If set at different tempatures, can the machine use other products like wax, chocolate, fast setting rubber or latex? ***note that you would need to use a different nozzle/hot end/feed tube if using any food items. You don't want to contaminate anything you're going to eat. You would need to consider how long it takes for the material to cool and how well it holds its shape while cooling.by grog - General
Oh yea, and how to get it to the board. After you save the file in Arduino, you need to upload to the board. The printer has to be disconnected in Pronterface before Arduino lets you upload. You also need to tell Arduino what kind of board you have and what com port it is on.by grog - Reprappers
If you're using sprinter firmware, open it in Arduino. I believe Sprinter doesn't play well with Arduino 1.0. I have v0023 If you need to download it go here: Once you have it open in Arduino click on the Configuration.h tab. Scroll down a bit to the line that starts with 'float'. I recommend copying the line and pasting right below. Then commenting out the original line ( type // at the bby grog - Reprappers
It is actually a setting in your firmware. For example, I'm using Sprinter on my gen6 board and I use Arduino to change the setting. For Sprinter it is on the tab Configuration.h and the line titled float. The default was: float axis_steps_per_unit[] = {1600/50.8, 1600/50.8, 1280,((PACKING_DENSITY*EXTRUDER_MTR_STPS*EXTRUDER_GEAR_RATIO*(1/MICROSTEPPING_RATIO))/(PI*BOLT_DIAMETER))} I changed iby grog - Reprappers
Some people have reported the hot end itself got clogged and needed to be cleaned out.by grog - Printing
Do you have Skirt turned on in Skeinforge? It will trace an edge around the outside of the object and start extruding before starting on the object. I've found that I don't need to prime before starting using it.by grog - Skeinforge
People have said that Slic3r has a problem with the pyramid as it doesn't yet have a way to do the top portion slowly enough to allow the lower layers to cool. A fan can help also. Direct it at the printed item rather than the hot end nozzle. Check out Richrap's blog. He has some very detailed posts about how he has tuned Slic3r and how he is figuring out how to use it as well as printing theby grog - Printing
For assembly the big thing is if you are good at looking at assembling kits. If you can look at a diagram and get the parts together in the same way, or can pick up on what the instructions tell you, you can do it. Gray Hodgson has really good assembly instructions for the Prusa Mendel: . For getting it going, sounds like you're doing your background research. Read the reprap wiki and theby grog - Reprappers
Would rotating the object on the bed give you enough room for most of the parts? That darn geometry and triangles. It is also possible to join shorter printed items. ABS is 'glued' with acetone, which is avail quite readily.by grog - General
Once you have your printer up and you are turing it and running through the filament - I recomment an opaque filament. With the transluscent filament it is a lot harder to see how well the layers are matching up and if you have ooze.by grog - General