Just popped this up on thingiverse if anyone needs a y-axis rod holder for 10mm rods.by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
Hey! I've ordered the extrusions and T-nuts this weekend. Already have most of the hardware, but I worked out a basic BOM for those interested in the cost of the build. Going a bit further and stepping the machine up to 500mm extrusions. As a result I'm going up to 10mm rods on the x and y axes. Still looking for a good 10mm x-carriage. Hoping Richrap will put out a parameterized version ofby akhlut - General Mendel Topics
Or just go to the top of the food chain with a MendelMax or Mendel Prism... Tip - read as much as you can about the various models, especially the Bill of Materials(BoM) for each and the build instructions. How comfortable are you in winging it? If you prefer a lot of documentation/support then go with one that you feel will hold your hand through your build. Also, doing your research will leby akhlut - Reprappers
I made a heatbed controller a while ago as I'm running Gen6 and had no way to control the temp. Check my blog, March 16th and 25th posts have the details.by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
The basics: (2) Spanners (m8) Nutdrivers (m3, m4) Tape Measure Screwdriver Allen Keys Digital calipers (these are a must buy) If you need/want to alter any of the wiring: Wire Cutter/Stripper Soldering Iron Solder Electrical tape or heatgun & heatshrink tubing If you want to make it look nice (contain the wiring): zipties spiral wrap or expandable mesh sleeving By no means is this an eby akhlut - Reprappers
They seem reasonable. Try a feeler gauge of around 0.01" or 0.012" for .35 layer height. This will squash the first layer a bit, giving you more contact with the glass.by akhlut - General
That's how I've been doing it, but with metric feeler gauges. What layer height are you using?by akhlut - General
Yeah, some sort of insulation between the acrylic and the heatbed. I wouldn't reccomend getting the heatbed too close to that acrylic - it'll warp eventually. Do you have some fiberglass insulation lying around? Try that first before you go out and spend some $$$. So, to clarify: acrylic - insulator of some kind - heatbed - glass Also, how are you you leveling your platform? What size nozby akhlut - General
The one on the left looks like a demonic bunny. Perfect for Easter!by akhlut - General
I'm glad the advice worked. The quality of your prints has really improved! After looking at your blog I think you have some issues you need to address (I had some of the same problems). Do you have kapton tape? Try printing on that. You can get some pretty cheap from amazon - it's not really kapton though. If not there is an alternative that people have tried and seems to work. You'll nby akhlut - General
I did something similar for my Y and Extruder steppers. Not pretty but it worked...by akhlut - General
Making your own molex connections is an expensive proposition. The crimpers are expensive (engineer pa-21), the ends are expensive and the terminals are expensive. However, if you love things to be clean and neat then they can't be beat! Their little brother the pa-09 is extremely useful as well... - akhlutby akhlut - Reprappers
You could use these for the axes, but the extruder needs more holding torque. These have 33N.cm but you need around 40N.cm for the extruder. Also, the stepper pictured has >4 wires. Could probably get it to work with some fiddling... -akhlutby akhlut - General
Absolutely. You bought from makerfarm? I did, and mine needed to be adjusted. 1. grab a small flathead screwdriver (tiny) 2. turn all your trimpots down (counterclockwise), don't accidentally touch the board - you could fry something! 2. send pronterface a long move command for the axis you're adjusting 3. slowly turn up the trimpot until the stepper starts to move. Add 4. repeat for the otby akhlut - General
Personally I went with 0.9's. They've performed great so far. I was concerned with speed as nophead pointed out, but so far that hasn't been an issue. That's not exactly true - my extruder stepper would chatter if I set the retraction speed too high. But thats the only issue I've had with my motors. I got mine from sparkfun.com Part ROB-10846. They've got a pretty good video on steppers toby akhlut - General
I had the exact same problem. Have you adjusted the trimpots on the gen6 board yet? My y axis was losing steps and my cube looked more like a set of stairs. How tight is your y-belt? - akhlutby akhlut - General
Check this thread: I built a temperature controller like what you describe last month as I'm on Gen6 as well. You can do it for about $40 if you want an LCD screen and a stock arduino. Or you can cheap out like me and build it from scratch for about half that. And do switch to slic3r, it'll make your life easier. -akhlutby akhlut - General
Bad heated bed MOSFET on RAMPS? Have you tried hooking up the extruder to the HBP terminals and setting the bed temp in pronterface?by akhlut - Reprappers
Such resistors do exist, but you run into a whole new set of issues, namely some mathematics on calculating the desired resistance to achieve a target temperature. Shouldn't be that bad, but it's been a while since I last took a Physics class. Also, you'll need to sink the heat generated by such a resistor. Would it be cheap? Absolutely. But what if your calculation is wrong? What if you wanby akhlut - General
I built one last month. M.by akhlut - General
richrap Wrote: > > Any new people to RepRap in the last 6 months, how > did you make your decision? what was it? and are > you happy? Well, to be honest I did a lot of research. I never really considered buying a kit, always thought I'd build it myself. Originally I was going to build the whiteant variant (I've got all the woodworking tools already), but when I found reprap.org Iby akhlut - General
Greetings! I just tried the ABS juice trick on a sanded mirror and got great results. No warping and easy removal. Although it does leave a skin on the part. A small price to pay to not use kapton...by akhlut - Reprappers
Much better. I'm still new to this - day 9 of printing. Thanks a million!by akhlut - Printing
And that's exactly where the problem seems to be. My Slic3r settings were off. Firing up the machine for a print now.by akhlut - Printing
Hello everyone! I've got an issue with my hotend and extruder. I was printing PLA just fine and ran out. So I switched over to ABS and ran into some trouble. The Setup: Wade's Extruder J-head Mk IV-B White 3mm ABS from 3dprinterstuff.com In order of occurence: 1. Remove PLA and insert ABS. 2. Test extrude until ABS flows, extrude additional 5mm 3. Hobbed bolt ate through filament. Removeby akhlut - Printing