QuoteHendo420 and Polygonhell - what filament are you guys using? I'm using some PLA I got from SeeMeCNC, it seems to be consistent diameter wise, requires slightly more temperature than the Ultimachine PLA I was using, but was printing fine in my existing hotend. I have 3 other rolls I can try here, I will after I get a chance to reassemble. The ABS was Ultimachine natural, I think I have someby Polygonhell - General
Your shopping cart doesn't work. I can not add items to the cart.by Polygonhell - For Sale
You'll find you can't find GT2 belts in the commonly used sizes with anything other than neoprene with fiberglass reinforcement. There is nothing wrong with that it should be fine for any purpose on a reprap. With metal reinforced belts there is an associated minimum bend radius and it can be quite large so I'd check it's actually larget than your planned pulleys and idlers. In general timing beby Polygonhell - Reprappers
Until recently there was no real support for CoreXY or HBots in the firmware, though the change is basically trivial. I had issues with my HBot prototypes I could run very fast with acceleration similar to those used ultimaker's, however there are racking forces introduced by the belt path and I could easily see the effect of those in motion across the H. Others seem to have managed to get them rby Polygonhell - Reprappers
I haven't tried it, but even drilling out PLA is tricky because it tends to melt if the tool is moving even slightly fast. I suspect you;d have the same issue with turning something down. Though you could probably get around it with enough coolant.by Polygonhell - General
The mass moved by the motors limits the accelleration of the axis, this becomes significant at higher speeds. The Ultimaker has very low moving mass, so it can run aggressive accelerations, which results in higher print speeds. On a conventional Mendel style printer the Yaxis would become the limiting factor if you used a Bowden extruder, on most simple gantry designs, you end up having to move aby Polygonhell - Reprappers
Took mine apart again, I still think at least part of the issue is the interface between the brass nozzle and the stainless thermal break. When I put it together at 300C I really did torque down on the nozzle as much as feasible. I ran the hot end up to 240 fed in some abs ans pulled it out before disassembly. Taking it apart this time I didn't see any plastic on the nozzle or thermal break, butby Polygonhell - General
The heater block is aluminum, and the thermistor is fairly close to the brass nozzle, FWIW my hotend runs with less than 1 degree variance. My experience pushing filament through by hand is that it requires very high initial force to extrude, likely because with filament sitting in the Hotend there is a relatively long soft section of PLA, once the filament is moving, it extrudes vey easily, intby Polygonhell - General
Is that price pee foot or per meter?by Polygonhell - For Sale
The heatsink was already screwed on when I got mine, and it was tight enough I was concerned with damaging the thermal break if I tried hard to remove it, so I couldn't see how long the top threaded section is. However given the temperature of the heatsink at the first gap is ~30C, I'd be surprised if a 5mm retract could get the plastic that high, though I guess with repeated retract/primes, theby Polygonhell - General
And finally an update on where I am. Replaced my extruder, and it made no difference. I can't get the purple PLA filament to print reliably in the hotend, it is a classic PLA Jam, when it happens if I retract 20mm it will usually clear. I did try som Ultimachine Black PLA and get a print out of it. I ran some ABS through it and without retraction enabled it was fine, with retraction it too stoppby Polygonhell - General
The only source I could find for 3mm in the US was Grainger. 'McMaster has it in 4mm and 3/32'sby Polygonhell - General
The fan is now mounted with the supplied shrowd as described in the in the instructions. The Kapton is gone. The heats sink is cool to the touch even at the bottom, though I do have a burn on my finger where I missed it while trying to test it Am I sure it's blocking at the interface, no, I'm basing it purely on pulling the filament out when it's blocked and looking at the length and throwing thby Polygonhell - General
If you're building the entire printer inside a heated chamber there are additional issues ,like how the plastic and more importantly the steppers hold up at the elevated temperature. Ideally you want the steppers outside the heated part.by Polygonhell - General
yeah 20KHz is close to the limit. If you use Repetier, by default he does two steps/interrupt with an option for 4. but with 10mm pulleys you'll be limited for top speeds without going down to 8uSteps or even 4. The bug I had with CoreXY in Marlin was it didn't correctly enable both steppers for single axis moves. Just doing a tiny jog in each direction was enough to work around it.by Polygonhell - General
OK I did some more experiments tonight, my PLA issue appears to be trying to print too slowly. If I double the speed of my first layer it seems to run fine at 190C. I suspect the increased speed is reducing the length of soft plastic in the hotend. This corresponds to my observation that when pushing by hand there is some initial resistance then the plastic flows freely. The point at which it appby Polygonhell - General
I need to spend some more time looking at what's happening, I've run exactly one completed print through the hot end but. When it was jamming I wasn't running any retraction at all (I usually don't for first prints since it can cause many issue), it just jams. It seems like any change in the back pressure causes it to jam, often a short retract and resume will make it extrude again. In fact whenby Polygonhell - General
The only issue I have with drill rod, is if it isn't hardened, the bearings in the LM8UU's will wear them. But were talking about 100's of hours of printing and then you can just rotate them slightly. I find drill rod relatively easy to cut and machine, my bandsaw cuts through it in a few seconds, I am using drillrod in my current design, but I'm using bronze bushings on them not LM8UU's. the VXBby Polygonhell - General
Yes it warps like nothing else. Garolite is the recommended surface to print on. But I can get it to stick to Harspray on glass and others have used UHU glue sticks on glass. Untreated poplar boards also work, but they are rarely flat. If you have a sharp corner on the base of the object add a 2 layer high circle centered on the corner as a tab to hold it down, don't use excessive numbers of soliby Polygonhell - General
You don't have to build or even intend to build anything to apply for a patent. You just have to be first, and it has to be not an obvious extension of existing things. I'd say a large portion of that patent is obvious, but once granted getting a patent overturned for being obvious is almost impossible. Assuming your judged to infringe, you're pretty much reduced to prior art and because of theby Polygonhell - General
VXB.com will sell you chrome plated hardened steel rods in various lengths, buy it the size you want it's a pig to cut. But use McMaster.com if you just want drillrodby Polygonhell - General
So I got mine set up, I've only tried PLA in it so far, is anyone else finding they have to print PLA with much higher temperatures than normal? I've verified the thermistor is "accurate" with a thermocouple, unfortunately the thermocouple won't fit down the nozzle, so I can't get an accurate delta, but I'm currently printing PLA at 250C. It's certainly not behaving like PLA at 250C. I've beenby Polygonhell - General
I think it's likely you have a geometry problem. The only things that matter in the firmware are setting th plane so it's level and removing any curvature from that plane. If you're seeing errors at FLR, the odds are the towers aren't evenly positioned or they aren't parallel.by Polygonhell - Delta Machines
The_OG_Hamburgler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've heard that the Mendel90 has way more parts, > and in my naive mind, more parts = more things > that could go wrong. Also, most of the makes are > wood. Is this ever a problem with swelling (I live > in a pretty high humidity place)? Is there an > aluminum version of the frame? All these kitsby Polygonhell - General
Caveat I've built neither, but if I were starting today, I'd take a Mendel 90 over an i3. The primary reason is the attention to detail in nopheads design. Most builds don't include any details on how to run wires etc etc. It's not hard, but it's a surprising pain in the ass the first time you build. The Mendel90 has all of that resolved for you, it also puts connectors where you actually need tby Polygonhell - General
I just got mine, I'll assemble it over the weekend. I live in the US and ordered one of the trinity labs metalmagma hotends a few days earlier, still no sign of that and no update from the seller. Interested to see how they compare when I get them both running.by Polygonhell - General
The issue though is on the inside of the print, what they are doing is introducing what I think are airbubbles to refract the light. That requires you to be able to print something with uniform optical properties to start with.by Polygonhell - General
It looks to me that they are using some sort of resin for the print, I'd think the issue with just depositing PC filament would be getting optical clarity where it's needed.by Polygonhell - General
I'd pick something others can help you with to start with, I'd be tempted by the Mendel90, though there is nothing wrong with the MendelMax. I have a delta bot and like it a lot, but there are enough extra steps with configuration and potential gotchas that I wouldn't recommend it to a first time builder.by Polygonhell - General
That's an interesting idea, but you should look at the core X/Y mechanics it ends up with two open belts of half the length give or take.by Polygonhell - General