how is the hanbot an i3? it uses extruded aluminum, it does share the mendel layout, but so do many other 3d printers. it doesnt look like it even uses smooth rod it has some sort of rail system.by aduy - General
while the seperation of x and y makes the frame much simpler, you can achieve a much more efficient build area in comparison to machine size with a corexy machine, even in comparison to a delta which has all of the axis tied together its overall build volume is much less than its machine volume.by aduy - General
when you say 220mm/s that means nothing, what is the input speed relative to the filament, whats the nozzle size and layer height? the fastest i can run my machine currently is 15mm/s of 1.75mm filament into the hotend.by aduy - General
i got 8.5x11" samples from dupont for free in 3 and 5 mil, they still rip so its not really a big difference for the extra thickness.by aduy - General
if the filament was really too brittle you could heat it at the point where it unspools.by aduy - General
nice this is exactly what i was talking about, now maybe someone can make a poll or something where we can put how much force it takes to extrude for each extruder. QuoteAirtripper Here's a method of measuring extrusion effort. It's still in it's early stages of design but the electronics and firmware is now available for everybody. The graphing software is being prepared for release, however, foby aduy - General
i think you could just scale it up slightly?by aduy - General
i had found this out a while back, but recently I bought a space heater to heat the piece as its printed. I noticed something amazing too, my kapton sheet had come unglued from my print surface, when I turned the hot air blower on the plastic began to behave like a soft heavy clay, the infill drooped instead of just staying flat and taught, and the sharp corners that would often raise without theby aduy - General
the 3mm probably wont like the big wheel though it might need an even larger one. btw the wheel would only be for a bowden setup. also i have zero interest in printing pla, I live in arizona, pla melts in my car haha, its really useless. abs polycarb and nylon are all fairly flexible, the polycarb isnt as flexible but it doesnt mind being bent at all.by aduy - General
im working on a new extruder, its going to use a huge hobbed set of washers, the filament will be pushed onto the hobbed surface by a set of small bearings which will allow a large contact area, about 90 degrees around the hobbed surface, instead of just one small point. now the reason this will be good is because, it will have more surface area to grab onto the plastic, but it wont deform the plby aduy - General
for me recently i upgraded to a 24v supply for my motors, they just dont stall anymore at all, its great.by aduy - General
so ive been thinking about this a lot recently and come to the conclusion that 3mm is better for high volume extrusion because you have a lot more grip over the filament, and obviously it is bigger so you get more.by aduy - General
I think 3mm is really the way to go, after having used 1.75mm for about a year, the amount of issues is simply rediculous, the hobbed bolts are pretty much all designed for 3mm anyways, so when you use them with 1.75mm they just chew it up and then it kinks. any idea on the price for the kraken yet? ive got a water cooled hot end already but its dying slowly because of the ptfe tube inside of itby aduy - General
on my corexy i use two motors for each axis, they are only 0.7amp each so i just wire them in parallel off the same chip, they works great on 24v. no issues at all.by aduy - Reprappers
i have these exact motors, the pulley can be moved down the shaft if you have a press or makeshift it with a vice, make sure to support the end of the shaft though. I superglued some dimes onto the top of each pulley so the belts would drift off. also these things love to run on 24v. I use these on my corexy machine that i designed, they only take about 0.7 amps each so i run two on each axis offby aduy - General
this is a picture of my hot end, its called the europa, and its made by bradley fudge. He makes some really great things, but after working with him for a while on research for his new hot end, the mercury he decided that he didnt need my help anymore and cut me out. anyways the watercooling actually weighs less than the equivalent fan and heatsink. and the plus is that you can control the temperby aduy - General
ive got watercooling, it doesnt take up much space at all, the block is actually smaller than the heatsink you would need to aircool it.by aduy - General
you know what i was thinking about? this would be cool if you could have it change the feedstock before it actually needed to change colors, since some of the plastic will build up in the hot end and need to be extruded still. you just need to figure out how far before the color change you would need to change it.by aduy - General
what would be green for me at least is being able to shred plastics that are use for packaging and make that into filament. I could probably get about 1kg of pet per week just doing that.by aduy - General
right now im printing a full sized jango fett helmet, its 5mm thick with two perimeters 0.64mm thick each and 50% infill, its going to use up an entire roll of abs 1kg, maybe more, no support either. ill post pics once im done, but it looks great so far, im using my corexy machine, with redundant hobbed bolts, a water cooled extruder, and a home etched 12x12" pcb bed, the bed is granite. oh and tby aduy - General
im working on an upgrade for the wades reloaded that adds a second hobbed bolt, on the opposite side of the filament, but in a different spot so that it makes it nearly impossible for the filament to strip or slip. and the great thing is it only needs 3 printed parts and can fit on any hinged idler thats compatible with the wades reloaded. and since its based on the wades reloaded it can use a loby aduy - General
I just need to make the transfer gears and i should be going, i have to say it looks a lot more substantial than the regular wades reloaded. maybe ill call it the wades reloaded double barrel.by aduy - General
actually im pretty sure osama bin laden has been using 3d printers to make guns for years. he was actually one of the main supporters of the reprap community. "The prusa i2 is the ak-47 of 3d printers!" bahahaha!by aduy - General
lol thats a replicator 2, it only prints pla, I highly doubt that would even survive one shot, it would probably just explode. and the notion that the part might be able to be used in a gun is preposterous, its akin to saying because you posses a screw its a gun part, or can be used in a gun.by aduy - General
yeah those are great, Im using them for my heated build chamber as well.by aduy - General
when i started i had a similar thought, how can you get precision from these printed gears, and the answer is, the stepper motors quantize everything, and then everything can be geared down or increased in accuracy. how was the first straight line made? someone took a vine and stretched it taught, then how did they get a length that is half, they folded the vine in half. now one thing that keepsby aduy - General
you might also try increasing the flow, what your extruder setup.by aduy - General
try a lower layer height, and slower too.by aduy - General
then i used a ground granite tile instead glass, the glass i got wasnt well cut.by aduy - Reprappers
I dont have a tutorial, but basically i just used this site to figure out the trace size i needed, which was 5mm, then just made a pattern using inventor for the traces, and converted it to an stl then into an svg. then I printed it out on legal paper in two parts. then I used an iron to transfer the toner onto the pcb. it was kind of a pain in the ass because i didnt have the correct transfer paby aduy - Reprappers