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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Drying PLA (New Idea) - 12 years ago
The reprapworld one is also one of the cheaper filaments out there, but it seems to work really well.by uGen - General
Re: Printing Fiber-loaded Material - 12 years ago
What exactly are you referring to, Simba? If you mean the additive lathe, carbon fiber can just be wound around the workpiece and fixed in place by extruding over it. The carbon fiber doesn't have to be extruded since the cylindrical workpiece acts like a spool. You just need a guide. As for injecting short pieces of carbon fiber into a plastic part, I guess a pinch wheel similar to our direct dby uGen - General
Re: Printing Fiber-loaded Material - 12 years ago
Having worked with and helped a student with his diploma thesis involving extrusion onto a rotary axis, I tend to think that the first experiments with fiber-reinforced FFF parts might be best carried out on a machine similar to his ("additive lathe"; already done before by others). If one were to add a second print-head that just guides a carbon fiber strand over the cylinder being printed in orby uGen - General
Re: Drying PLA (New Idea) - 12 years ago
It probably also depends on the filament supplier. We stored our reprapworld PLA filament out in the open for half a year without any problems although we are pretty coastal. Then again I have heard people like you having problems with moist PLA and do remember that the workshop instructor I am working with mentioned that he had to dry the GRRF filament. So saying that the filament will take X amby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
eh! mrc, that's awesome! I am especially impressed by the TIE advanced; the amount of details is stunning and the lack of visible imperfections left by support structures rather baffling. How did you print that? Butt to the bed? In other news, the extremely tight fit of my ceramic heater wasn't a problem a hammer couldn't solve. I just gripped the heater cartridge with the crimping part of my muby uGen - General
Re: Drying PLA (New Idea) - 12 years ago
Problem is that not everyone has a car (or that it isn't always hot outside), I guess. By the way, I just put the filament into a large plastic container (doesn't have to be 100% airtight, just a plastic lid is enough) together with a bag of room desiccant. Even taulman 618 prints nicely when stored like that. Total investment: around 10€ or so. As long as you have the desiccant in a separate,by uGen - General
Re: Mysterious Printing Problem! Need Reprap Sleuth! - 12 years ago
Ok, that certainly is a strange problem. I don't know if this is related at all, but occasionally, the Z axis "pulses" when going up after homing on some of the machines I work with. Instead of driving the X gantry up in one continuous, smooth motion, the printer accelerates and decelerates several times on the way up. Even rarer is this same problem on the X axis of one Mendel90 during the firstby uGen - General
Re: Aluminium rods - 12 years ago
@RP Iron Man: Unfortunately, aluminium is a lot more flexible than steel, so you would have to use much thicker rods (or tubes) to compensate for that. Instead, I am considering to use thinner steel rods. 6mm is about the lower limit for an Ultimaker-style gantry with up to 150mm of travel. @Waitaki: AFAIK, the Foldarap 2 uses PLA bushings on aluminium extrusions with good results. You can findby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
OK, received the hot end. Really nice packaging! I love how the parts are buried in those pesky styrofoam flakes, it's like digging for a treasure There is just one problem: when assembling the hot end, the heater cartridge jammed not even half way in from one side. I immediately pulled it out again and checked dimensions: slightly under 6mm in diameter. The bore in the heater block is exactly aby uGen - General
Re: Aluminium rods - 12 years ago
Just make sure that the aluminium rods are anodized or else...by uGen - General
Re: NetFab STL checking alternative? - 12 years ago
I, too can only recommend blender. You have to edit the mesh by hand in some cases, though; but as long as not too many places in your model are non-manifold, this is usually quick and unproblematic. The most recent versions also include 3D printing specific tools like overhang checking, but I haven't tried that out yet.by uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
Finally! I have been waiting impatiently over the last 3 weeks to finally be able to extrude more exotic stuff! The Kraken sounds interesting, especially with the growing amount of materials with wildly varying properties. Water-cooling seems a little bit dangerous on a moving machine, though (well, Kühling&Kühling's machine is also water-cooled); I am excited about how you implement possiblby uGen - General
Re: 3mm or 1.75mm feedstock - 12 years ago
From a standard material availability standpoint, 1.75mm vs 3mm seems to pretty much be approaching equality. Some shops offer more colors in one size while others have more stock of the other size. However, 3mm still has a broader selection of materials by means of plastic welding rod. My current machine has got a 1.75mm extruder, but because I want to experiment with e.g. HDPE, the next one wilby uGen - General
Re: Drucken mit PET - 12 years ago
Also PET-filament bekommt man hier: plastic2print Habe auch schon eine Rolle in 1.75mm und warte eigentlich nur noch auf das E3D hot end, das demnächst mal ankommen sollte. Taulman hat schon mal PET gedruckt: 2Beigh3 instructable Theoretisch wäre es möglich, die Materialeigenschaften zu verändern, indem man steuert, wie schnell das PET abkühlt. Wenn es schnell unter die Glastemperatur gekühlt wiby uGen - Neue Ideen - Archiv
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
Hm, sorry about the sparse updates; I've been quite busy in the last time. This is totally crazy, the Taulman filament will not easily stick to anything for me. I've tried: - Glass + liquid glue (Coccoina brand) + Tombow and UHU glue stick - Nopi masking tape with all of the above - Kapton with all of the above - Tesa 4306 masking tape without anything, wiped down with acetone (improved grip) anby uGen - General
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
Thank you for the tip, drawcut and welcome to the forums! Unfortunately, Garolite doesn't seem to be available in Europe. Instead, UK based shops sell Whale Brand Tufnol (which richrap recommends). Slowly, I get suspicious of the quality of my sample of phenolic board. There are quite a lot of surface imperfections and one area even looks like they used too much resin in production. So I might tby uGen - General
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
I seem to have found some working solution: After sanding the phenolic board and applying a very light coat of oil (until the surface is shiny again and feels a little bit slick, but not oily), the nylon adheres pretty well with a little bit of corner warp. That is partly strange because common logic would suggest that by sanding, you increase surface area. Then again, if the oil settles in the lby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
@SanjayM: You posting in the forum and generally actively communicating with the community was one of the major reasons why I finally decided to buy your hot end (although I am normally very impatient about lead times). Customer service and transparency really matter to me. I got the PET filament from plastic2print: Direct Link Seems like they carried some a long time ago when the wiki page abouby uGen - General
Re: Prusa Nozzle Released - 12 years ago
@SanjayM: Some guys I know have brought two Stratasys cartridges to our workshop (in order to disassemble them ). Just measured the filament size to vary between 1.71 and 1.75mm, so you are in luck. The filament may be from an older machine, though, as the manufacturing date of the cartridge is December 2011. Hope they didn't change anything about the filament itself.by uGen - General
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
Again, a day of destruction, but we are getting there. - The release agent didn't help much. - ABS juice on phenolic is as bad as ABS juice on PCB. The print comes off approximately at the second layer. - Lubricating oil made for high precision machines (sounds rather expensive, but is rather cheap; very runny) applied as a very light coat and fast bottom layers seem to alleviate the problems somby uGen - General
Re: SCAD - 12 years ago
I myself am more of a blender guy because of the vast possibilities of this program. Sort of never bothered to have a decent look at OpenSCAD, but I guess I won't feel uncomfortable with it. @bobc: Maybe something similar to how blender is developed and supported might be useful for OpenSCAD (or RepRap in general), too? They get money from their donations to their foundation and feature films toby uGen - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
Seeing your shop come together from the start when there were still a lot of dead links to now is somewhat enjoyable. I have finally placed my order some days ago after hesitating for like as long as the announcement for your hot end was out and can't wait to extrude some PET with it. Hope you guys don't get into it over your heads like some others promising projects. Cheers! By the way: Did youby uGen - General
Re: Incrementing Z coordinate - 12 years ago
Yes, this is absolutely possible technically. Either, you manually move Z to your desired height and enter G92 Z0 (see Wiki for complete list of GCodes) and start from there (make sure that the printer doesn't home Z after this) or set the Z offset to that height in the slicer (you might want to change the start GCode so that the head doesn't collide with the already existing object).by uGen - General
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
Ok, reverted to prototyping PCB for the time being. As long as you squish the bottom layer extremely and switch the heated bed on (I tried 80°C), warp seems to be less severe. Also tried putting some ABS juice onto the PCB, but the effects were rather detrimental. I also spoke to the instructor of the plastic workshop. He hypothesizes that the high heat of the Nylon plays a role in this extraordby uGen - General
Re: Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
@ThanhTran: Well, the prints do come out pretty well, actually. It's just that the surface comes out pretty ugly afterwards Some parts do have a little bit of phenolic resin stuck to them, though. I'll see what I can do to improve this situation. Some options I have thought of so far include reverting to a prototyping PCB. The Nylon didn't stick too well to a blank PCB back, but the holes in theby uGen - General
Taulman 618 bonds too well to print surface?!? - 12 years ago
So. Finally, I got some fabric-based laminate board for printing the Taulman 618 filament on to. The product I got is probably not exactly Garolite (being based in Europe, I ordered it from here: modulor). Still, from the looks, what I got should be similar enough to Garolite/Tufnol so that I had high hopes for it to work well with Nylon. And work well it did! The prints came out warp-free. The oby uGen - General
Re: HBot using fishing line - 12 years ago
@Polygonhell: hm, yeah, offsetting the grooves half a line width sounds like a simple to implement and logical approach. Crazy how much force you can apply to this simple system without it slipping... Ok, I have probably found the culprit in my system: Although I drilled the hole in enclosure plate that holds everything together larger than it need to actually be, the set screw of the shaft colby uGen - Developers
Re: HBot using fishing line - 12 years ago
@Polygonhell: Is your idler slightly tilted like garyhlucas has described on page 2? I am experimenting with a very similar setup myself, but ran into trouble: After about 1/8th of a revolution, the motor axle won't move anymore (I am moving everything by hand right now) and the dyneema line slips. Might have something to do with the fact that I use loose distance washers to prevent the crossingby uGen - Developers
Re: new 3D printer i'm going to follow from velleman - 12 years ago
Hm, the guys in the 3D printing subreddit don't seem to be over the moon about this one: link to the threadby uGen - General
Re: Megatronics v2.0 - 12 years ago
Would be nice to hear some official information on this. Could you please clear this up, brupje? A real pity if this nice all-in-one solution was indeed faulty.by uGen - Reprappers