Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Printed object is bigger at the base. How to fix it? - 13 years ago
lazzymonk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do you have any way to check the tempratures are > what your printer is saying they are? Thanks for your help. I just made couple more test prints with thinner layer (0.27mm) and 20mm/s feed rate with temperature set at 100 and still have that problem. I checked with a voltmeter / temperature probe which I havedby ThanhTran - General
Re: Printed object is bigger at the base. How to fix it? - 13 years ago
Hi Bob, I'm printing ABS. The extruder temperature is set at 230*C The temperature of the bed was originally 110*C (which you suggested me to use when I asked about the blob last week) and it had problem. But this problem exists with either 80 or 110* bed temperature. Thanks -Thanhby ThanhTran - General
Re: Printed object is bigger at the base. How to fix it? - 13 years ago
Thanks for all the helps guys! I'm sorry I didn't provide enough data earlier. I reduced the bed temperature down to 80* celcius (as compared to 110* earlier). And I tried another print of the same object. Print speed: 10mm/s. Layer thickness: 0.3mm. Filament: 3.0mm. Nozzle: 0.6mm. Filament is ABS. It looks better, but it still gives me different dimension between the bottom 6 layers and the reby ThanhTran - General
Printed object is bigger at the base. How to fix it? - 13 years ago
Somehow the object I print has this problem: it's bigger at the bottom (the 6 bottom layers) than it is at the top. It creates something like a half parabollic curve. Please see this photo: Could anyone please tell me what causes this and how I should fix it? I'm using ReplicatorG 40 with Marlin 1.0 firmware and SkeInforge 50. Thank you in advance -Thanhby ThanhTran - General
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
Figured out what caused my printed objects being tilted / slanted. The steppers were loosing steps when they change direction. Bypassing the direction & steps optos on the Chinese TB6560 stepper driver helps fixing my problem. The reason, I think, is because the Sanguino firmware (Marlin) has only 4us (micro seconds) delay between direction change signal and the step signal. When I tried runby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: Extruder Jamming - 13 years ago
It looks to me like your liner is not going all the way in and leaves some space that allow the ABS to stay & collect there. Maybe you can try getting rid of the flange or whatever on your liner so that the liner can go deeper and touches the bottom of the hole inside the hotend.by ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: Extruder Jamming - 13 years ago
I think I see what your problem is now. I had that same problem before I had the liner. The liner is supposed to go inside into the hotend, about 5mm. Look at photo on section C-C of the PDF: . Note the liner is also stopped on its upper end. What happens is the motlen plastic flows out and freezes. If the liner is tight inside the hotend, and can't be moved up and down, the molten plasticby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: Extruder Jamming - 13 years ago
What is the budge between the brass and the plastic tube? Is it the melt ABS?by ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: Extruder Jamming - 13 years ago
Does it have a liner like this: The liner inner diameter is 3.2mm PTFE. The outter diametter is about 4.8mm. The big tube is also PTFE. I copy the idea from KISS hotend (http://reprap.org/wiki/KISS_Hot_End) Before adding this liner, my extruder got stuck often during test and whenever I cool it down then heats up again. Thanhby ThanhTran - Reprappers
My cube is not straight. It's a skewed cube - 13 years ago
I still have a weird problem which I don't know if it's the Teacup firmware or what but if I print a thin-wall-square box (no filling) then my box is printed and form nicely. Every layer is exactly on top of the previous layer. But when I switch to print the solid 20mm cube, I get a weird shift. The upper layer is shifted to the right (in both X&Y axis) about 0.5mm. The third layer is alsoby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
Andrew Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A skirt will help, as it lays an outline before > printing the object. If you are printing smaller > objects the skirt may not be enough to prime the > extruder, but you can do that by hand before you > start the print. Thanks so much for your help, Andrew. That really helps with the consistency of theby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: Power supply help needed (yet another noob) - 13 years ago
Higher voltage (i.e more than 12v) will cook your reprap board. But higher amp will make the system running more stable. With lower amp (i.e < 5A) there are chances that your machine might reset in middle of the run due to voltage fluctuation if someone got stuck during run. You can use power supply from PC. They have 12v and 5v. Some new PC power supply can provide 12v with current as high aby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When using absolute you must add a "G92 E0" to > your start.gcode. Thanks for the info. I think I'll stay with relative extrusion now I have another question: When the print first starts, many times, the extruder takes some time before the ABS starts flowing out, but the machine is already running as if the ABSby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
Dirty Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 250 C is also a bit on the hot side for ABS. A > lower temp will help with blobbing, and oozing in > general. I'm usually around 220-230 for regular > printing, 210 for slow/small/detail printing. Thanks for the tip, Steve! I'll keep that in mind. Thanksby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
I reverted the firmware back to use relative E and also set the Skeinforge to generate relative Extrusion distance, and I was able to do some prints. Got a thin wall object after couple tries and with the help of my finger to push down the first layer to the bed for it to stick. The string of plastic is the early extruded plastic that didn't stick. Maybe I need to change to the Kapton tape insby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
After adding the " #define E_ABSOLUTE" in the Teacup firmware, now I see no big blob at the corner. Yay! I also calibrate the extruder stepper so that it pulls in 50mm of fillament when I command the extruder to extrude 50mm. But I now see another problem: before each of the print, the extruder runs in reverse for a large amount, and this results in a first empty layer with no extruded ABS (I'mby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: help with mounting my hot end to my extruder. - 13 years ago
I don't know what the problem is, but I would put the extruder (the motor and the gear box IMG_20130301_161303.jpg) on top of the carriage (IMG_20130301_161226.jpg), then put the hot end PTFE with the wooden part (seen in photo IMG_20130301_161316.jpg) beneath the carriage, and put two bolts going through the 2 big holes from top to bottom. That would make them stay together with the carriage.by ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
konwiddak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To get rid of the blobs you need to change your > slicer from "absolute E distnces" to "relative E > distances", or you can change your firmware from > relative to absolute. How do I do this in ReplicatorG & Skeinforge? I check the Teacup config file, and it is using relative E (because it has the E_ABSOby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are your E_STEPS_PER_MM calibrated properly, i.e. > Do you have cool turned on? What do you mean by "cool turned on"? Is it the fan to cool the cool/cold end of the extruder? I don't have this fan. I've not calibrated the E_STEPS_PER_M yet. I have not found a solid tip how to do so. I thought I needed to print theby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: avrdude: AVR Part "atmega1284p" not found. error - 13 years ago
Megator Wrote: - > > 2) avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: > resp=0x00 > avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, > expect=0x14, resp=0x51 > > I did get this problem once. I don't remember exactly what I did, but I mostly followed the instruction here: and it did help me. I'm loading Teacup on my board though. Also, please make sure the board on the Arduino sby ThanhTran - Reprappers
Re: noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Your heated bed should be at 110°C for ABS. > Check your distance from the bed when hot @ Z=0. > There should only be space for one (or two) sheets > of paper. Thanks for your help. I will increase the the bed temperature up. I had a feeling that they are not warm enough since the extruded plastic didn't sticby ThanhTran - Reprappers
noob needs help for my rep-strap - 13 years ago
I just built a rep-strap recently. I'm using a Sanguino board to drive the stepper motors of a CNC milling machine. I added an extruder on this milling machine. The extruder speed has not been calibrated since I can't print anything correctly yet. I have teacup firmware running on the Sanguino. On my PC I'm running ReplicatorG with Skeinforge (50). I'm using the "replicator slicing default" profby ThanhTran - Reprappers