Also in your start gcode, you can replace that G0 Z0.200 F1800 with G0 Z F1800 Prusa can do some variables, then it will go to whatever the first later height that you set in the gui.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, I did some playing around and looks like it might actually be on the Printer Settings tab, in the Extruder 1 section under Retraction Settings. Probably the Z lift there, take that out.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, something's going on at layer change or retract time. Here's a snip of gcode from yours. G1 Z4.500 F5400.000 G10 ; retract G1 Z5.200 G1 X6.789 Y-44.591 G1 Z4.500 G11 ; unretract It's moving to the next layer, retracting, then moving up by 0.7mm, moving to XY position, then going back down. Then unretracting. Take a look at mine G1 Z4.600 F5400.000 G10 ; retract G1 X7.551 Y-0.057 G11by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Would you post the stl also, I'd like to slice it and see how it does the gcode for me.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I don't really see much difference either. Could you post that gcode file?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I don't see anything there so different than mine. Except the travel speed, I have it set lower at 90 mm/sec. The Max Print Speed I left at default 80 mm/secby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, it should be just like mine. I'd try out different speeds and distance combinations of M207by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'm wondering if it's too much as in when it retract it's pulling hot filament into the cold section and cooling it causing a temporary jam. Maybe the clicking is the gear teeth riding over the imprints it already had made. Is there filament powder on the gears when you took it apart? I'd also be curious if it's skipping steps on the retract because it's too much for it. On the side of the Heby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Maybe temperature or movement speed. Does it move pretty quickly between points where it retracts and begins again.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yep, that’s what you’d send.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Looks like it's starving for filament on layer starts. In PrusaSlicer, on the Printer Settings Tab under Extruder 1, I have the option "Retract on layer change" unchecked. I also on the Printer Settings Tab under General, I have it setup like this. And lastly, I have that M207 command in my config.g I like Firmware Retraction because you can adjust it on the fly just by sending the M207 agaby blt3dp - Delta Machines
That’s the M207 command I posted earlier. I use 3.5mm @ 40mm/secby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, I'm actually using the one from the Titan i had since it was already nicely cable tied. The one that I have that came with the Hemera is the same. Looking at the data sheet, on the end that plugs into the Duet you will want is red,blue,green,black. Which i'm pretty sure is how I have mine setup. https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/GdYIUZMlaEoWbQhU/Hemera-Datasheet-%28Edition-2%29.pdfby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Ah crap, i forgot on the hemera side it's one of those 6 pin connectors but there's a couple of empty ones and they're in weird places. You might have to use a multimeter. Regardless of how they're connected on the motor end, when you multimeter it out, on the other end pins 2 pins should say they're connected to each other. They go next to each other in the connector. The other 2 take up theby blt3dp - Delta Machines
It shouldn't matter as long as they're next to each other and the same on both ends. Now if it were something like black, blue, green, red you would need to make a change. But you're ok.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Here are the settings I'm running pretty well with, I've bolded the ones you'll probably want to update. M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E409.00 M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z600.00 E3600.00 M203 X7200.00 Y7200.00 Z7200.00 E7200.00 M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E7200.00 M906 X1700 Y1700 Z1700 E1100 I30 I also have these set at the end of config.g. If you're going to flip betweenby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I did use the cable from e3d and I currently have steps per mm set to 409. I’ll see about my other settings when I get home.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I didn’t get any grease with the Hemera, they were advertising that it didn’t need lubrications. To mount it, I used m3x8mm to mount the Hemera to the mount, then it was m4x10mm to attach the mount to the frame. The bowden is about 615mm long, but my printer is also 200mm shorter than yours.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Actually, you might be able to side mount the Hemera, it doesn't extend past the face of the extrusion when mounted on the side.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
So I got 2 of these 1 1/2" black abs pipe caps from Home Depot. Then i drilled a hole in the middle of one and mounted it to the frame. Then I took the other cap and a section of pipe, cut to length, and used acetone to solvent weld them together. Here's a shot from the front. I have the Hemera mounted on the Y tower, about half way up. I'm able to mount it on the side because my towerby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I will say for the tension adjustment on the Hemera, twist the knob until the white wedge is flush with the edge of the tension arm and I found steps per mm 409 is perfect.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
That's exactly the one I'm using with the Hemeraby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Shouldn’t really matter too much. If you want a quality tube you could go with Capricorn tubing.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Wouldn’t hurt to try.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Sure, here's the link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081JE0OO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Those ridges are really similar to what I was getting. Make sure the nimble isn't pulling on your effector. You might still try printing that extruder I linked earlier too.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
He’s using a Duet, I think further tuning of extrusion to get it closer to 100mm when you tell it to extrude 100mm as well as tweaking the retraction amount should take care of the later start and stop points as well as the slight stringy-ness.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'm curious to see the machine and if it made any difference to your prints.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
While they're working for me, I'd eventually like to replace them with genuine rails of some type. I'd probably do what digital dentist does and keep an eye out for a good set on ebay. Then design some new carriages.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I had actually ordered 5 sets of rails from RobotDigg with 2 blocks each. I had read that sometimes they have play and I wanted to be able to choose the best ones. Through swapping the blocks around between rails, I ended up with 5 that had absolutely no play. Once I had that, I kept those pairs together. I only replaced the ball in the 3 that I screwed up with Simple Green. I'd say if I hadby blt3dp - Delta Machines
For my linear rails, I did take them apart and soak the bearing block parts in simple green. It worked well for all the parts except the balls, it ate the chrome off of them so I had to replace those. I cleaned the rails with acetone. I put them back together and used Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE and they are running smooth. For the MFL4 bearings, I took the seals off. I scrubbedby blt3dp - Delta Machines