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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: New release : FoldaRap 2.5 - 9 years ago
Great job on the documentation. I'm curious what method you're thinking of for the y-axis sliding on the extrusions for v3.by blt3dp - FoldaRap
Re: RepRap Samuel - A variation on the Mendel - 9 years ago
Just curious if the lower Z motor mounts maintain the same spacing between the smooth rod and the threaded so that I may elect to use the standard i2 x-ends. Edit: Checked out the files, looks like they keep the same spacing.by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: auto bed leveling servo issue in marlin - 9 years ago
I had problems like this until I isolated my servo wires. I'm using a PC power supply and noticed that I would get issues like this if anything else (fans, lights, anything) were plugged into the power supply. Then I made a little board where I placed a .01uF ceramic capacitor between the signal line and ground, as well as a 4.70uF electrolytic capacitor between the 5v and ground. My jitters aby blt3dp - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Marlin v1 - Infill problem after adjusting X & Y steps per mm. - 9 years ago
I've been working on calibrating my printer further, prints look beautiful. Perfect everything except for the X & Y dimensions My problem is when I print an object, say 40mm cube, the X and Y measure to 39.5mm. This is using the stock values in Marlin's configuration.h which 78.7402 So I'll go into Marlin's configuration.h and adjust them 40/39.5 = 1.0127 78.7402*1.0127 = 79.7402 I'll putby blt3dp - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Marlin v1 - Printrboard Rev.D SD print issues. - 10 years ago
Hi, I wasn't quite sure where to put this. I've got a Printrboard that I've flashed with the latest Marlin. I know there's a known issue with the pins.h where the Y Endstop pin conflicts with the SD Card. I've moved the Y endstop and updated the pins as described here. https://my3dprinterbuild.wordpress.com/2012/09/02/printrboard-sd-card-boot-up-fix/ I also have added a section in the Printrby blt3dp - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
Yep, I uncommented that line and my probe retracts after homing.by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
There's actually a section in Marlin_main.cpp that I'm curious if it's causing the probe not to retract. It looks to check if auto bed level is defined as well as servo deactivation delay, but the action it's to perform if true is commented. I'm no coder though so I may be way off. Plus I'm not at home to mess with it. #if defined (ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING) && (PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATIby blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
I'm seeing the same issue too. I'm curious about a fix also. In my starting gcode, I added a lift to 5mm, then M402. It then resumes it's normal routine. No problems printing, just a slight annoyance I'd like to see fixed.by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
I've got the offset right with that method. I'm saying that if you look at the gcode, slic3r moves the nozzle up the distance set as the 1st layer in the settings (G0 Z0.35 in my example) from where the autolevel measured Z0 thus making it's true height off the bed Z0.45 and then the layer's not squished enough.by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 10 years ago
I'm a little confused on setting the offset. I understand the tutorials say take the nozzle and touch the bed, then back it off so you have the clearance of a sheet of paper, just like you would do if you did it manually. Lets say it's .1mm thick. Then set that as X0 Y0 Z0 and then put the probe/microswitch down on that same spot till it triggers. Effectively setting it so that when you G29,by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
I've gone over the frame, again. Tripple checked everything and now I'm super confident it's all square. I'm printing a 20x20x60 cube now. It's about 1/3 the way up and it doesn't seem to be leaning. I'm surprised, the layers look perfectly aligned, even more than I've seen before. We'll see how it is when it finishes. Edit, vertical alignment looks really good. But damn, Z wobble. It's aby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
I've switched to printing on just my glass with blue painter's tape, heatbed was off and had a fan on the entire print. I also went to 185 on the hot end with a fan. Each time it would finish a line, retract, then start a new line, there would be difficulties starting the new line. Like the line started and then the end peeled up and dried. In some areas it caused it not to stick and start toby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
I believe I got the leaning print issue resolved. I was upgrading the XY belts to GT2, and I'm not sure why I turned one of the Z threaded rods by hand, but I noticed the other one didn't turn as much. I looked closer and the vinyl tubing and printed coupler on that one were slippng. Good thing I had just gotten the aluminum couplers. I put them on and it seems to have resolved the leaning.by blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
Finished printing, the print looks better as far as layer alignment and the fill looks better. But I still see the lean. I've noticed something though, even on the older prints. I'm printing Rostock Kossel Top Vertices and all the vertical walls are perfectly vertical, except for the end piece that I pictured in my first post. They're just thin little pieces with screw holes that come off theby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
Just finished essentially taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together. The lower frame was square, but the right Z Axis Smooth Rod was way out of square with the rest of the frame, in X and Y directions. The Left one only a little in the Y direction. I also noticed a couple other mechanical things, seems one of my bearings on the Y Axis had seized, I actually had gashes in the Smby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
Yes, I did ensure that my glass kitchen table was level. I used wooden shims and leveled it. Should be a good base to verify everything is square and level. I'll check back later.by blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
I actually did do a ghetto spirit level (nut on string) and it seemed to be ok. But I didn't think to actually throw a framers square across the Y smooth rods and see if the Z smooth rods were perpendicular. I'll check that when I get homeby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Prints leaning - 10 years ago
That's actually exactly how I verified everything. Made sure the table (flat glass kitchen table) was perfectly level, and performed all this on that table in the center. I'll check it again though.by blt3dp - Printing
Prints leaning - 10 years ago
Hi, I'm printing with a Prusa v2 with Linear Bearings & Z Stabilizer, Printrboard w/Repetier Firmware and using Mac Repetier Host/Slic3r. It was working fine, I hadn't used my printer in a while and just came back to it. Installed Repetier Host/Slic3r (I had recently wiped/redid my Mac. Now I'm getting leaning prints. I'm pretty sure it's not a mechanical thing. I've made sure both the Xby blt3dp - Printing
Re: Problems printing holes, overhang and bridge problem. - 11 years ago
That's actually when my glass bed cracked and I was away to not catch it. It kept printing but it threw it all off.by blt3dp - Printing
Problems printing holes, overhang and bridge problem. - 11 years ago
I'm gotten a Prusa v2 assembled and everything 's been working for a while. I shelfed it for a bit and decided to pull it back out. I want to print some Prusa i3 parts. I'm starting with the corner supports and I'm having problems printing it. The straight edges look to be good. But when it gets to the holes, after it gets about 90% of the way up, when it's supposed to be doing slight overhaby blt3dp - Printing