I updated the base plate with fins to prevent side to side motion too. You'll probably want to print those.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Looks good. Flip those around though so the larger half circles are on the outside.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Awww man, i totally spaced it, of course the extrusion is going to be there. Let me do a quick tweak for that bottom plate.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
It’s for the top vertices. They’re the same as far as the area it needs to be. I only had the bottom models left.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I got them from amazon. Definitely don’t go with steel, the bend radius on our pulleys is too small. They’ll fatigue and break internally. Go with Glass or Kevlar reinforced. Though I couldn’t find Kevlar so I went with glass. I’m probably going to get some actual fates belts from filastruder sometime though.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'll send you the bearings no charge, I don't have a need for them. PM me the address again. I've gotten the plastic parts design designed if you were going to go the direction similar to my idlers. You'll need 3 of the mount-plate and 6 of the bearing-holder. You'll also need 12 m3x10 socket head cap screws. The bearing-holders is designed to be bolted to the mount plate. The screws should slby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'd hold off on buying parts, I just wanna make sure I'll be able to design the plastic parts that will work with them.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I only have the flanged bearings that will work with your Robotdigg vertices. I can send those My setup is different so it would take a bit to get my idler setup to work. Let me see if I can come up with some printed parts that will fit over the Robotdigg vertices to use.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I haven't seen those kind of flanged bearings locally anywhere. I have some I could ship you though. For my bearing setup I got the mounted bearings and the pulley from vxb.com They're 1/4" parts because I could only find the shafts in 1/4" They're not cheap, here are links. https://www.vxb.com/1-4-inch-Flanged-Miniature-Mounted-MFL4-p/mfl4.htm Here are the pulleys. https://www.vxb.com/6-35mmby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I meant print something like this to try and see if it changes/resolves the extrusion issue. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 The top surface as well as those lines on sides that don't line up look like over extrusion to me. Maybe going through the e steps calibration here might help. https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guideby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I wouldn't say the quality on the benchy is from the pulley, you might possibly see some layer misalignment from it but it looks more like it's pushing out too much plastic when it starts a line. I'd look at extrusion. I wonder if something's not quite concentric as far as the gears and hobb from the nimble. I dunno if I'd buy another extruder just yet, I wouldn't spend the money on it unlessby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Hrmm, if you’re setup the same way that dc42’s are setup, I see a lot of reasons why it might start to click. The reason I don’t have mine setup like that is because using a bolt through the bearings as well as the pulley itself was for a couple of reasons. First was that there’s too much clearance between to bolt and the bearing/pulley. When you tension the belt, it pulls the bolt against theby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, I probably wouldn’t do the waxey stuff on the linear rails because they’re recirculating balls and you don’t want to bind them up. I’ve read multiple recommendations to use an oil (not a grease). I see a lot of people having success with the ptfe infused synthetic oil. I’ll use that for the linear rails, but probably the waxey stuff for the rod ends.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
You could keep the M400, I don't think it will hurt anything. Also If you haven't had any problems due to lack of lubrication, you may want to do some preventative maintenance. I recently noticed a squeak whenever my effector would do a quick move. I disconnected one of the carriages from the bearing block on my linear rails and found that it doesn't move as smooth as it did before. When I fiby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Be sure to change your nozzle diameter to 0.4 In the Print Settings Tab in Advanced section, change all the Extrusion widths to 0.45by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Here's my config. You'll want to make a few changes. I didn't know if I could export it pieces, so there are profiles for my old Prusa i2. You will want to delete those Also: On the Printer Settings Tab in the General section, set your bed shape, size and max height. In the Custom G-code section, setup your Start and End G-code. In the extruder section, set your nozzle size. In the Print Seby blt3dp - Delta Machines
The bow looks pretty good, as does most of the rest of it I think. Looks like there’s some stringing. That’s probably a temperature or retraction setting. I think the temperature is probably good cause I had it set for 185 in that code. The retraction you may want to be more. I know you use Simplify3d, but I sliced those in Prusa Slicer. I can send you my profiles and you can tweak with theby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I haven’t, have a link?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
This post by DjDemonD is interesting. https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?178,794415,796026#msg-796026by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I would have thought to find the tubes at a hobby shop but they’re all probably closed. Maybe something compatible can be found at a hardware store. I know Lowe’s and Home Depot are open. I’ll see if I can get a design drawn up to work with the smart effector.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I haven’t had the chance to try new cooling. I just stared a new job and haven’t settled yet. I did see that the fan hangs out pretty far. I was probably only going to use it’s mounting method. I’m thinking of doing a couple of 4010. I also found that SeeMeCNC has 3010 for sale. I was thinking of trying a couple of those. Maybe with either a circular cooler like the Zesty one you printed oby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’m curious how the new cooling has affected print quality.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
It might be too much. One is probably enough. I’ve even been looking into 40mm or 30mm blower fans.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I was thinking about 2 5051 with some sort of ring cooler to push air out all the way around the nozzle. I like the mounting method of the one that Zesty designed so I may do a combination of one fan mounted that way with a ring attached to the bottom and then have another fan mounted on one of the other sides of the effector and use it's attachment points to stabilize that end of the ring so itby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yes, most likely a 5051 fan.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I think your machine is fine, I think most of what you're seeing is a Slicer problem. Looks like Simplify is drawing the outer perimeters too thick. After figuring that out, you'll want to tune the retraction and do something with the cooling. I was thinking of going with this duct or something similar. That could use a blower fan instead of an axial fan. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10227by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, the bow of the boat is hard to print. It requires fairly good cooling from what i've read. I've never printed a benchy myself. I'm betting the fan shrouds we use aren't really optimal, I plan on upgrading mine. Prusa Slicer does control the fan speed if you tell it to as well as it will slow down so layers don't go down too quick. So you're not stacking hot plastic on hot plastic and iby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Try this gcode. Sliced with Prusa Slicer, I set the seam to rear so theres a common start and end point. Hopefully that would tell us if it's just the start/stop points.by blt3dp - Delta Machines