It probably wouldn't hurt.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
That looks good to me.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Oh, it is parallel. Must have been the perspective on the other pictures, it should be good then. The cooling fan is coming on when printing benchy then?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
The Nimble looks to be in a good place. The way I'd make sure is to move the carriage as close to the Z tower as possible, move the nozzle up to the maximum height you can print at. Then take a look at the cable for the Nimble. The bend should no less than 100 mm across when measured. You would also want to make sure that when you move it as far from the z tower as you can go as well as to thby blt3dp - Delta Machines
They should be tight, we technically should be measuring the deflection when pushed on and tensioning them way. But, we just tighten them and strum them like a guitar string, till they make a medium-deep sound. It's more important that they're not loose, and as close to the same.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
You should be getting better prints out of the machine than that. Something's got to be loose. I'd say double check everything. The frame Motors attachment to the frame Pulleys on the motors Linear rails attachment to the frame Smart effector adapters on the bearing blocks Ball studs to the smart effector adapters Carriages to the bearing blocks Ball studs on the smart effector Make sure theby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'm pretty sure it's software. Change these settings also. Specifically the Relative Extrusion Distances, standard config.g for RRF uses relative extrusion distances. If that option doesn't match up in simplify, I would think you' have issues. Edit: on the G-Code tab, the Flip Table Y Axis is concerning for other reasons. You might want to make sure it moves right. When facing the printerby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’d look at your slicer settings first. If you load your gcode onto and make sure to check the box to visualize extrusion width. Tweak whichever slicer settings to get them all the same width. Look on the Advanced Tab, maybe in the Thin Wall section.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
It looks like it's drawing the outer perimeter thicker than everything else, is there a setting somewhere you might turn off for that? I might suggest trying a difference slicer also.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
That still looks like over extrusion. You’re using a volcano with a 0.5 mm nozzle? How fast and how hot? What layer height are you printing at? Could you attach the Goode for that cube?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
You'll leave the multiplier at 1.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Everything looks good to me except I would make a couple of changes on the Extruder Tab. The nozzle diameter, is 0.5 your actual nozzle diameter? If it's not, I would match it up with your actual nozzle diameter. Then for the extrusion width, it's generally not smaller unless you wish to under extrude. A value of nozzle diameter * 1.2 is usually what you want to set there. 0.4 nozzle = 0.48 0by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I would change your e-steps to 2700, it's what Zesty says is a starting point. I got great prints without having to change them. Jerk should be 40 Max speed for E is pretty low @ 20 mm/sec See the changes below M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E2700 ; Set steps per mm M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z600.00 E40.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z18000.00 E7200.0by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Would you post your current config.g.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
The scar on the top of the cube where the nozzle dug in points to some over extrusion, also probably the blobs where your perimeters start on the 2nd print. Make sure you don't have any extrusion multiplies or flow rate multipliers set. I would go through calibrating the e-steps, Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide I also noticed that my layers weren't lining up very well. That's when I foundby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I took it off, I believe it was flexing the smart effector slightly and causing layer registration issues. I switched to a bowden hemera and have been getting really clean prints.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
1 isn't a CoreXY. The X axis motor is mounted on the Y gantry, so there's that additional mass there that is going to limit your speed/quality. Can't really tell if 2 or 3 are CoreXY, looks like 2 might be. Between 2 and 3. Can't really see how 2 is constructed. Though it does appear at least at the top there's no supporting structure. Looks like it's acrylic attached to the vertical extrusiby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
I would think that you would do it in your bed.g After the M561 I would do something to turn off thermostatic mode on my hotend fan (I'd copy the line from my config.g but set it to H-1) Something like M106 P1 H-1 Then at the end, put it back to the way it was but just copying the exact M106 command from your config.gby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Hey alex773, I was wondering what kind of surface quality you’re getting with the nimble. It’s looking to me like the cable on the nimble is slightly flexing my Effector and the layers don’t stack up exactly like I’d like.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'd probably check the cabling to the effector again.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
There haven't been any changes to the machine have there? I'd check all the usual stuff like the condition of the belts, I at one point had a belt fail where a section of it was stretched and the teeth were super far apart, probably too high tension. Check their tension too. Check to make sure that the pulleys are still tight on your motors, they've been known to come loose and semi rotate aroby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I noticed something similar with mine. You might check to make sure your hotend isn't coming loose from the effector. I noticed my hotend wobbling during a print. Turns out the nut holding it tight to the effector had worked it's way loose. I paused the print and tightened it up and was able to finish the print. Then I went back and put thread locker on it. I haven't had the problem since.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
It's possible that there are bends in the bowden tube could be causing excess friction and preventing smooth extrusion. You could try disconnecting the bowden tube from the hotend and pushing filament through by hand, it shouldn't take very much force.by blt3dp - Printing
On the picture you posted above, the nozzle is definitely not far enough into the heater block. The hex part of the nozzle should almost be touching the heater block. Think close to the thickness of a sheet of paper doubled over. The way I get it right with a new hotend is that I start with a fully disassembled hotend. I then screw the nozzle into the heater block to the distance I described.by blt3dp - Printing
Here's what I've used to make them. https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-max-60/ Amazon also sells the trial size kit. https://www.amazon.com/Mold-High-Resistant-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B00IZNNIU8 It's shore hardness is higher than the one you linked, so it'll be harder.by blt3dp - General
I've PM'd with Mark (the_digital_dentist on these forums), the writer of that blog on this very subject. I've come up with some very workable designs. I'll see if I can dust them off and post them.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I ended up getting some m2.5 button head screws, some fiber washers and half height nuts. I installed them from the underside and used locktite to install the nimble adapter. I can now use the official e3d fan shroud. I have almost 2 mm of clearance. And the nimble itself is awesome, I think it’s a great piece of hardware.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
How big are you planning to make the bed? I recently backed a Kickstarter that, well wasnt' successful. But they're releasing anyway. It for a spring steel sheet, that's powder coated with PEI on both sides like the Prusa bed, and a sheet magnet to hold it down that's good up to 150C. They're currently up to 380 mm diameter. I spoke a lot with Ken from the company and I'm looking forward toby blt3dp - Reprappers
During the design of my printer, I contemplated many of the same things. Definitely don't use fully threaded bolts. I find that no matter how close the outer diameter of the bolt is to the inner diameter of the bearing that they're still not perfect and there's some play there. Then the bearings chatter on the bolt. Plus you're playing a game of putting a nut or spacer up against the inner huby blt3dp - Reprappers
@Protoprinter I can understand that. If your effector is plastic, then everything you said about the weight would be true and there would be no benefit to changing just the rods to magnetic rods. In my case, because I changed the effector too, my whole setup got lighter than it was previously. Probably not as light as yours though. Ease of use stayed about the same, I can see there not beingby blt3dp - Delta Machines