QuoteProtoprinter I don´t want to use magnetic Rods. I am looking for some steel or better aluminium Rod-Ends with a minimum of play and good reliability. I used to feel the same way about magnetic rods, I found that my fears/reasoning for not wanting to use them was unfounded. Plus nothing beats the play free movement and ease of use if you want to work on the effector. I'd reconsider magnetby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Yeah, mine's pretty much the same way but flipped because mine's a v2 effector. I ended up modeling a fan duct for the hotend that completely cuts off one corner and it clears fine. I think I'm going to switch to m2.5 button head screws and fiber washers from the bottom and that should clear better.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Could you take a pic of the effector from beneath? I got my nimble installed I’m finding that one the washer/nuts protruding from the bottom interfere with the heat sink fan installation.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Just curious, mine is due to arrive today and was just thinking that I could go straight to the gimbal mount if it was necessary. Good to know it isn't, I'll just mount it.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Are you finding that rigidly mounting the nimble motor/motor bracket is sufficient or do you think one of the swivel mounts to allow the motor to move a little as the effector moves is needed?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I noticed there was a lip inside the hole in the adapter where the ptfe is supposed to go, it prevents me from pushing it all the way through. From what I understand, the ptfe is supposed to be flush with the top of the adapter and go all the way into the heatsink of the hotend. Did you have to file out that hole a little to get the ptfe to fit?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I actually had a few questions for you. How was installing the nimble? Did the adapter from Shapeways fit well or did it require some rework? What length cable did you get? Where did you mount the motor? And how are you managing the wires coming from the effector? Also does it work well? If you could attach a couple of pics, I’d appreciate it.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Hrmm, it dropped down just fine when I brought it into Prusa Slicer 2.0 Maybe there's an option in Simplify3d that would move it down? Maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJi4_ScDLtEby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'm not currently near the printer, but I will say that I originally tried using the bracket that dc42 created and when I attached this fan shroud, it dipped below the nozzle. I had to use the one from the actual thingiverse page. If you look at my effector_assembly tab, it sits exactly like that, parallel to the bed, actually slightly above the bottom of the heater block and has quite a bit ofby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Just checking to see how you've gotten on. Also, thought it might be of interest. Though probably less for you, my mounting method is different and I found that the fan duct was going to hit them. I changed to this, and it fits perfectly with lots of clearance between it and the hotend heatsink as well as the bottom of it is aligned with the bottom of the heater block giving lots of clearanceby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I had all these questions when I was first considering a custom delta. I would theorize, use calculators and do maths all day, in the end I found it best to spend my time with a CAD program and model it up. Then I could actually see how it would work. I could see how parts would interact and if I needed to redesign any of the (very few) plastic parts I had, I could. Here's a link to a bottomby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Just thought I'd post an update. I had originally used the idlers and bearings from some spare Robotdigg vertices. I was having problems with them because the "pulley" part of it was too "perfect" on the belt. The flanges measured exactly 6 mm apart and the edges of the belt and sometimes the teeth would grind on them. It left it making a noise as if you were to strum the belt. It also was cby blt3dp - Delta Machines
I would check those resistors with a multimeter anyway, and of course make sure there's no jumper as you're using pure 24v Looking at the schematic, if it were not the resistor and none of the leds come on, I would start with the first in the series. It goes D1 --> D9 --> D7 I found the part # on the Duet forums, CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA153by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Mine does that too. Though there's stuff in the way preventing very much rotation.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
That looks right. How I have mine setup. It's a clear path from the fan through the duct right? Like no left over support material or anything? Mine seem to be working fine and I'm using a Noctua 40x10mm 12v fan. Wonder if the one you're using doesn't have enough power to overcome the static pressure caused by putting it on a duct.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Quotealex773 I'm going to check out the 8-way connector. I just have to figure out how to take the cables out from the connector. Exacto knife or a small flat head screwdriver to push down the little tabs in the pins as you pull them out of the connector.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 On your calibration video it looks like it always triggers prematurely at one or two point at the left hand edge of the bed. I noticed that too, and it seems from the web interface that it doesn't report an issue at any of the points (eg. probe not triggered message). So it must think it successfully triggered. Edit: Looking back at your config.g, it looks like you're using defaultby blt3dp - Delta Machines
Just thought I'd see if you've made any progress.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Here's the link to the document, https://cad.onshape.com/documents/cdaad6da8b99bae2a9d9dd0e/w/2dbd663c0fc4ada4dfde92d3/e/8729b3767facd04581cd7c02 You'll want both the effector-fan-bracket and the 40-mm-fan-duct. A note about the fan duct, I dislike assembling using captive hex nuts or having to use a wrench. So it's designed to be used with heat set inserts. Specifically these. https://www.amby blt3dp - Delta Machines
That’s exactly why I made my own version. I modeled everything in CAD and saw that before I built. I saw that exact issue. I’ll link you to my fan duct when I get to a computer.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I'm not sure what else to chase, maybe dc42 has some suggestions. Only other thing I can think of is to choose one of the points where probing fails and try to probe it individually and watch it to see how it acts.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I’d start with replacing the probe wiring between the effector and Duet.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
I wonder if it’s the wiring. Maybe it’s losing connection at certain spots? I would think of your machine is built as accurate as it is, you shouldn’t see very much deviation between the points. It’s gotta be something else. My bet is wiring.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Estimate it, watch the points where it doesn’t trigger and gauge it. If it looks like you only need 2 mm, add 2. More or less it’s up to what you see.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Increase the H parameter in your M558by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Is this all probe points or just some that it fails on? Does it go through the motions of probing?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
G30 works ok, but then some points on G32 give that?by blt3dp - Delta Machines
It’s all kind of preference. That’s essentially what I have in mine, you may find in the future that you want it to do something else. It should get you printing though.by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Quotealex773 G0 Z460 F1800 ; home axes -5mm Update that one, G0 X0 Y0 Z460 F1800 You can leave all the stuff like turn off the bed and extruder,by blt3dp - Delta Machines
Definitely remove the G28 from the end gcode I'd say replace it with G0 Z464 F1800 I would also remove the disable motors line You're not going to be moving them by hand, if you did, calibration would be off And it doesn't hurt to keep them on For the start.gcode I do all the stuff I posted earlier manually when I turn on the printer, then I don't have to do it again until I turn it off It's sby blt3dp - Delta Machines