I have just re read your post. Extruding ABS at 130 - 140 deg C. I don't think so.by dave3d - Printing
I don't know whether they wear out as such but they certainly seem to be very fragile. I have had two faulty A4988 stepper drivers over the last couple of months - one a newer one from G3D with 2 pots. I have found you need to carry lots of spares so you can swap out parts: spare Arduino, spare Ramps, spare steppers, spare extruder, plus a load of other bits.by dave3d - Printing
I am using 6mm float glass (also known in some parts as plate glass). It is perfectly flat. Never had an issue with it. Never shattered and never had a chunk pull away. A glass shop cut me 3 pieces 200mm x 200mm for 10 GBP. I got them to take the sharp edges off. I have a standard Reprap bed. I just timed it heating up and from room temp 22 deg C to 110 deg C and it took 14 mins. Don't know hoby dave3d - Reprappers
Got the second delivery after 4 days. Sticker on the last 2 spools (fluorescent yellow & natural) saying made in china, which was not on the others. Quality looks very good. I have printed a lot of things with the green ABS. It extrudes really well. Here is a hobbing tool I have just made:by dave3d - Reprappers
You can increase the extrusion multiplier in the slicer filament settings so it extrudes more and the layers flow into each other. Before you do that however, have you calibrated your extruder?by dave3d - Printing
I have a second order for more 2 spools of 1.75mm ABS on the way. Can't go wrong at that price.by dave3d - Reprappers
repete: You would not want a detector to cut all the power to the house. You might still end up with a fire, but in the dark with all the lighting turned off and trying to get out of the house with your wife and kids. I have a smoke detector next to my printer, which is wired into a relay that cuts the power to an extension lead, into which I have the printer plugged. Of course it does not helpby dave3d - Safety & Best Practices
Found the problem ......................... a duff stepper driver, which I had mistakenly replaced with another duff stepper driver !!!by dave3d - Printing
QuoteMacarduino wrote: I had a similar problem with bad connections on my stepper wiring. I unplugged and reinserted the connector on the ramps board and everything was fine. Has happened a couple of times, but works fine now. I have swapped out both the stepper driver and also the extruder + motor. This obviously has a different connector and plug fitted. I am wondering if it might be a faultby dave3d - Printing
I have suddenly developed a problem with my extruder. I have been printing OK nearly every day, but when I started a print off today it started OK then all of a sudden after about 30 mins into the print the extruder motor started buzzing and the filament stopped. The motor seemed to be quickly going backwards and forwards causing a buzzing sound. When I tried to control the extruder from the LCDby dave3d - Printing
I am a retired engineer and one of the reasons for building a 3d printer, apart from being facinated by the technology, was to involve my grandson who is just 6 years old. My longer term plan was for both of us to build the inmoov robot together. However, after an initial surge of interest, he has switched off a bit. He is very much hands on though. He has used my wood lathe and I have taught himby dave3d - General
I ordered 3 spools of 1.75mm ABS in white/orange and green. Took 4 days delivery, not 2 days, but over weekend. Well packaged in silver foil bag. I printed a couple of test cubes at 230 deg C, 0.35 nozzle and 0.2 layer height. It extrudes very well (the test cube was done with my old slicer settings on an SD card and was not optimised. As an experiment, I had set the layer change on the externaby dave3d - Reprappers
Float glass is pretty standard in the UK. I am not sure about other parts of the world. It is made by floating molten glass on top of molten metal, usually tin, so it is dead flat. Developed originally by Pilkington Glass in the UK, which is now owned by a Japanese company. It is licenced round the world but I think however the patents are long since expired. It is usually used for shop fronts anby dave3d - General
Quotemrmillsy wrote: Have you had any luck with it? I'd be interested in 1.75mmPLA at that price! I am away. I don't have it yet. I will do a test cube later on this week once I receive it.by dave3d - Reprappers
I just keep my filament spools in the house without any special precautions. I am in the UK. My house is generally at around 30% relative humidity inside. I have not noticed the effect of humidity but there are so many other variables going on. Other parts of the world where there is high humidity, it may be a problem. There is no detrimental effect to keeping filament bone dry, so maybe err onby dave3d - General
jaguarking11: I can't find a good black. I have wasted my money on 3 different spools now. The first one I bought on Ebay was very cheap and stunk out the living room. I have tried out two other spools from other suppliers and the quality is awful. It did not extrude consistently and the layers delaminated easily. Car bumpers and other ABS parts are recycled now. It all ends up in the mix. All toby dave3d - General
I am using 6mm float glass. Nice and flat and quite robust. Downside is that it just takes a bit longer to heat up.by dave3d - General
I only do ABS now. Stronger than PLA and I can use the parts I make outdoors in the weather. Two things I have learnt in the 18 months I have been printing: the most important things are the hot end, and secondly filament quality. Steer clear of black ABS and you should be OK.by dave3d - General
I switched from Marlin to Repetier v0.92 firmware. There is an online configuration website which really is a godsend. Everthing is explained as you go along. You flash the Arduino the same way.by dave3d - Reprappers
I have just bought 3 reels of 1.75mm ABS, white/green/orange for 23.97 GBP in total. 2 day delivery promised. Keep watching this space.by dave3d - Reprappers
I've got an OrdBot with Nema 17 motors. my x and y steppers are set on about 0.36v. my z stepper running 2 motors with threaded rods is set on 0.72v.by dave3d - Reprappers
Suggestions:- - set the stepper voltages properly with a voltmeter. - try reducing the acceleration on X. - check your x carriage for any slight play in the belt drive, particularly the clamp, and make sure the belt is tensioned tightly.by dave3d - Reprappers
Could be your pc if you are using it to control the printer. Try printing direct from an SD card.by dave3d - Reprappers
I use a similar gear on my Wades extruder. On mine there is a slot to take a square nut and then a grub screw screws into that. I also filed a flat on the motor shaft.by dave3d - Reprappers
It was actually one of my corner through holes that cracked causing a short. I found it when I noticed the corner supporting bolt & spring too hot to touch. I put a fibre washer top and bottom of the through hole to electrically insulate it.by dave3d - Reprappers
I fitted a solid state relay to my Ramps board to control the bed, following a suggestion on here. It works well and takes all the heat away from it. Reprap beds can also crack, mine did across a corner, causing a short. Just a suggestion but maybe a track in your bed opens up as it gets hot and closes as it cools down. As soon as it cuts out, you could immediately disconnect the bed wires beforby dave3d - Reprappers
Thanks Ohmarinus. A european source at last. They are relatively expensive though. 1.49 euros for one, compared with $11.56 for 25 with McMaster-Carr. I will order a few.by dave3d - Reprappers
These are the ones I am after: They are used to hold the ptfe liner in place in the peek bit. They are hollow in the center. Thanks zavashier, but the link you posted does not list this type. In the mean time I have just ordered 5/16 x 1/2" grub screws that I will have to drill out and shorten. I have also had to buy a set of UNF taps and dies which cost almost as much as a jhead. The Wikiby dave3d - Reprappers
Alex, Gordon: I am trying to make a Mk V - BV jhead as per the Reprap Wiki The thread of the set screw is 5/16-24 which I think is UNF. I have the Peek rod, I have the brass square section profile, I have the PTFE liner, I have the lathe. I am ready to go if I can find the set screws. The terminology might be a problem. They are known as "hollow-lock socket set screws" and also "jam setby dave3d - Reprappers