QuotePrintThings wrote: Dave3d, how is the Z wobble problem easily fixed? I have these fitted: I got the kit from ATI and they were included. I later fitted longer trapezoidal lead screws so had to modify them to accept larger acme type nuts. I have also fitted these: I have built two spool holders: and I have recently fitted a Misumi extrusion across the top with twin bowden Wade exby dave3d - General
Looks a nice job runninfarmer.by dave3d - General
I have got a Hadron. It is a very flexible design that lends itself to modifications. I like the rigid frame made out of Makerslide and Mitsumi extrusions. The engineering is good, better than rods or wooden sides. The Z wobble problem is easily fixed. I also now have acme threaded rods. You can put any extruder you want on it but stay away from the QU-BD. I have fitted a standard Wade. I woulby dave3d - General
Black ABS is full of all sorts of recycled junk (more correctly known as regrinds). It is masked by the black pigment. Also old car parts made of ABS are now recycled.by dave3d - General
I have recently built an OrdBot Hadron and I am about 6 months down the line with it now. I live in the UK and I imported the kit from ATI in the US. There are I think only two companies supplying the kits. That is ATI (Automation Technologies Inc) and RepRap Discount in HongKong. Both sell quality parts. There is also a guy in the US that sells fully assembled and calibrated OrdBots called Punchby dave3d - General
Here is a source for peek rod. You would have to bore it out yourself:by dave3d - Reprappers
I have not tried shimming. I was really looking for a simple screw adjuster. I mounted the twin extruder plate on slots so it could be tilted side to side across the X axis. The idea was to allow adjustment of the relative heights of the two extruders but it is not very satisfactory. The OrdBot has a pretty rigid frame and I have squared X and Y axis using a set square. I levelled the bed relatby dave3d - Reprappers
I have experimented with twin extruders on my OrdBot but I have not satisfactorily solved the problem of getting the nozzle heights (Z axis) the same. I am using two Jheads with bowden tubes fed from static Wade extruders (1.75mm filament). I am looking for a few ideas for a simple mechanical adjuster that is easy to fabricate.by dave3d - Reprappers
I have bought two 1.75mm/0.4mm nozzle Mk V Jheads plus a few spare parts from Hotends.com. The machining is first class as is the service. They work very well on ABS. I don't have much experience with PLA. I have just bought a micro lathe and a few lengths of peek and ptfe rod so I might have a go at making my own designs.by dave3d - General
Hi Ohmarinus, I am using your Jhead cooling shield on my OrdBot. It works very well (I am dave3dprinter on thingiverse). I do just ABS now at 235 deg C. I have a hotends.com Mk V jhead and your shield with a 30mm fan on full all the time. It is wired in parallel with the heater. On mine I found the temperature would occillate a bit when cold air was blown into the shield. I reversed the fan soby dave3d - General
I have just downloaded it. Before it let me, I had to install a "Kindle for pc" app on my laptop which links to my existing Amazon account. There is no need to remove the DRM. Thank you BlackDogConsulting. I will read it.by dave3d - General
For a first print that is very good. I have got an Ordbot Hadron. Did you buy yours fully assembled or as a kit ? I struggled for ages with a QU-BD extruder before abandoning it and going for a jhead and Wade extruder.by dave3d - Reprappers
A2: you have provided a lot of interesting information there. I think if the plastic is being used for injection molding, making low tec items like plastic buckets, etc., the contamination is less critical. For us home printers that use filament the spec is critical. I have never seen manufacturers state 100% virgin in the spec.by dave3d - Reprappers
Try a different colour first. I know black ABS is full of all sorts of crap (regrinds is the proper word). PLA is probably the same.by dave3d - Reprappers
I use this 30mm fan duct by Ohmarinus on my jhead:- It works well, but I found that temp control was more stable with fan rotation reversed. I wired it in parallel with the heater. I do ABS more or less exclusively now.by dave3d - General
I tuned mine for 230 deg C ( I mostly print ABS). This was with a resistor heater. I haven't used a cartridge type yet. Send: M303 S230 I got Kp 15.59 Ki 0.65 Kd 94.00 Looks like your proportional band Kp is too wide causing overshoot. Suggest you try my settings to get you started then do another tune. Also I am using a bog standard Jhead from hotends.com. 1.75mm filament, no insulaby dave3d - Reprappers
at $550/lb it wouldn't do to have too many prints fail. It would stress me out using it.by dave3d - General
Did you not read my post? That is what I said.by dave3d - Reprappers
There is a new app out for the iphone which allows it to take 3D pictures. It is called Seene. I Googled it and read positive reports on the net. I immediately thought about using it for 3D printing. Unfortunately I don't have an iphone. Anybody care to try it out and report back? It is free.by dave3d - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
My Ord Bot bed is set up in Marlin with just on/off control or so called bang-bang. It is full on if the temp is under the set point. I did about 3 PID tunes on the extruder and took an average of the values.by dave3d - Reprappers
I have not long built an OrdBot Hadron. The bed that came with my kit needs +12v on terminal 1 and terminals 2 and 3 need bridging together and connected to -ve. If you don't bridge the connections, it acts as a 24v bed. Mine is still slow. I put some loft insulation under the bed and use a piece of thick cardboard on the top during heat up. I also used to have cycling with my hotend until I dby dave3d - Reprappers
I also inserted the end stop plugs the wrong way around when I first built my printer. It caused a direct short between 5v and GND. It damaged the Ramps board and I had to replace it.by dave3d - RAMPS Electronics
I upgraded my OrdBot with these trapezoidal threads: You also need the right nuts for the rods. Z axis runs a lot smoother now. Ordinary threaded rod is notoriously difficult to get straight.by dave3d - General
I am running my 3D printer via a Panasonic Toughbook that I bought originally to run diagnostics for my car. The laptop is virtually indestructable. Weighs a ton. It runs 32 bit Windows XP at 1.3 GHz ! and is absolutely fine for the job. It does not like me surfing the web or doing other jobs at the same time but if just doing printing it is OK. I am not recommending you buy one as they go for aby dave3d - General
I have had the same problem with my printer, an OrdBot. I am using Arduino Mega 2560/ Ramps 1.4 and a Reprap LCD screen. I rapped the ribbon cable with foil. It improved it but did not entirely eliminate the problem. Recently however I have printed an LCD case and the screen has not broken up since. Another problem was stopping mid print and I found that was the USB lead. I changed it for one wby dave3d - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am in the UK. I have learnt from experience that when you order from the States the postage is often for just within the US mainland. You need to check carefully before you buy.by dave3d - General
John, Thanks. The filament I bought I don't think can be classed as cheap filament. It is sold as "Jet Filament" and made by America Instrument. It was made in the States and was over 30 GBP per spool. I bought it because I had heard good reports. As I said the other colours are OK. I think to recycle it internally within a factory as re-grind is one thing; the process is under your control, bby dave3d - General
I have noticed a difference in quality between black ABS and other colours. I don't know if anyone else has noticed a difference. The black ABS does not extrude as smoothly. It seems a bit lumpier and the lines in the finished print show up a lot more. I have tried a couple of suppliers but the latest filament I bought (1.75mm) came from America Instrument via Amazon in the UK. The red, yelloby dave3d - General
Ohmarinus: you are right. I would not disagree wiith anything you have said. Electrical wiring is an important safety factor. Problem is when you do you own build some parts of the build are not quite as you want them. I have recently built an Ord bot and I have tried to pay attention to the wiring. Some of it is run in metal springs but I have still got my Ramps board hanging off the back.by dave3d - General
I have now wired my smoke alarm via a second latching relay and it cuts the mains power and stays off. Hope now it does not need to be used.by dave3d - Safety & Best Practices