I find it easiest to use a nyloc nut to secure the bolt to the aluminum plate. Then you can just adjust the top wing nut or standard nutby n9jcv - General
Yes, exactly, I feel like it is a wavy washer but it is glass, and I have checked and it is flat, at least to the best of my tools for measuring. I hooked the printer up to pronterface. I told it to go down 20 mm and it went down 19.97 very close I then homed and told it to go 100 and it went 99.97mm so to the best of my measuring the steps are correct. this is from my config fileby n9jcv - Delta Machines
Hello All, I have had this delta for a while and have not been able to get it working properly. I built it from scratch, it is a cherry pi. Here is a picture of the problem http://imgur.com/NQAwIB0 Basically the left is the x tower, right is the y tower and rear is the z tower The x circle has about 1/4 that is not close enough to the bed - The y circle has about 1/3 that is waaay to clby n9jcv - Delta Machines
Hello All; Quite a while back I got in on the $150 Misumi Deal. Well I have finally completed my first project using it. My project is a new Prusa I3, it is a cross between a standard I3 (if there is such a beast) and a Wilson TS. I designed all the parts myself using Sketchup. I decided to go with a Direct Drive Extruder. I am using a chinese E3D clone and it is working great, and it onlyby n9jcv - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks guys, I knew it could be made but was looking for the easy road. I did manage to find it on github. Here is a link in case anyone else wants it. STL for Y Belt Holder on Githubby n9jcv - General
This Y Belt holder for a Prusa I3. I have found many, but not this exact one, no zip ties needed, the belt is tightly clamped in the jaws and no bolts either. If you have the STL or know where to find it, I would appreciate it. Thanksby n9jcv - General
Hello All; I would greatly appreciate any help with this. I have a Prusa I3. It has been working well, but I am looking to improve the quality of the prints. Any time my prints have a square corner, the corner bulges out, like there is too much plastic, just at the corner, or the printer is waiting at corners, although I do not notice that. Here are the details. I print PLA at 190. I amby n9jcv - Printing
Hello All, I am having some issues and hoping you have ideas to help me resolve please. I have a delta, 1.7A Wantai stepper nema17 motors. I am using Ramps 1.4 and DRV8825 stepper drivers. I have heatsinks and a fan on the ramps board. The steps are set at 1/16th. I did a 5 hour print and 4 hours in it skipped steps, and the layer got shifted. I checked all belts and pulleys and they are tby n9jcv - General
In Firefox, simply do a Ctrl + Control key and Plus Sign make as large as you want and it does not get blurryby n9jcv - General
From ur pic it would appear to me that you should tighten the screws on the bearing holder.by n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
If it is only 240watts as it says that very marginal. It appears to have 12v at both 11.5A and 7.5A. You need a minimum of 17 A and 20 or more is better. I would look for a larger one.by n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Here is a build log for i3x, mine, it should help you tremendouslyby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
I created an adjustable z endstop specifically for the DIY Techshop i3x/i3xl Here is the thread for it; It works GREAT, I highly suggest it see the thread and thingiverse good luckby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
that kit or another like it looks good lcd as well not a bad price I just built an I3 with the same electronics, not that seller or kit but using ramps and lcd and steppers/arduino, etc good luckby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Ok, here you can try this assuming you have ramps 1.4/marlin the following will allow you to physically test the extruder/filament/hobbedbolt to ensure the physical stuff is working modify your firmware like this find this line #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE comment it out by adding two slashes in front //#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE then reload the firmware then remove theby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Glad to see you got it and have started the build. My supports for the frame DO NOT use the holes, they clip on the top, I kind of think yours might be better. Here is the pic of mineby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Guys, I do not think it is appropriate to defeat the DRM. They are already giving it away. At some point they wish to sell it. For an author to make an offer like that and then still on the first page of posts to discuss ripping the DRM and filesharing it, IMHO you should be ashamed, and NewPerfection, aren't you a moderator here, if so that is a very poor example to set.by n9jcv - General
That is the exact leaking issue i had. Diy sent me a new hotend that they checked the milling on. Now 1 week later not 1 single drop has leaked. I did put teflon tape on the replacement hotend for insurance. I think they did a good job fixing it. I dont believe leaking is a fire hazard as pla melts inside the hot end anyway, just my 2 centsby n9jcv - General
blackdogconsulting, Thanks Very Much I have downloaded. Very Generous offer!! Thanks The link does work, it is not a scam, it is just a regular Amazon Kindle book.by n9jcv - General
Doug, I have the same hot end. I have printed 1/2 a roll of my black from www.pushplastic.com and not had a single clog. My first hot end leaked as well like yours, but after DIY replaced the hot end, it has not leaked. pushplastic claims 100% virgin, no regrind. The filament is working great for me. Here is a pic, I just printed both of these in black on the same platter, 3.5 hour print,by n9jcv - Reprappers
cfy7, that is just the way the config file came initially. All values should be calculated to your setup. If you are using 16x stepping and 5mm z threaded rod, the 4000 is good, but you need to calculate x and y(both will be close to 80) and calibrate your extruder to get E(generally 600-700 or so). Other news, I now have parametric Herringbone gears on the extruder, here is a picby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
I have no affiliation with pushplastic but I did purchase 3 rolls, I have printed from 2 and not a single issue no clogs, consistent diameter no smell pla 1.75 all on my 1st 3d printer ever so it even worked for a newbie I think it is good and will purchase from them againby n9jcv - For Sale
endstops usually have normally open and normally closed no/nc connectors I bet if you reverse it, it may work otherwise there is an invert endstop setting in marlin const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.by n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Latest creation, I3x is tuned well now My friend Lukan, added my Ham callsign - N9JCV to this gear and here is a side pic I think the quality is great this is .2 layer heightby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Ok guys, reporting back as I said I would. I had a poor fitting brass hot end and a leaking PEEK fitting. I sent the hot end back so Van at DIY Tech could look into it and hopefully resolve. He actually had the machining guys change the process on the PEEK plastic part. Attached is a pic of the replacement hot end he sent to me in 2 days! Van was great about getting it to me quickly. It cby n9jcv - General
way better than i could do I am sure, but it looks like a bit to deep on the groove and I think you have about 30% too many teethby n9jcv - General
ciutateivissa , I have never done abs, I do pla, but here are some thoughts i have used both pronterface/slic3r and cura and both work fairly well I generally print at about 50mm speed try to slow it down a bit One thing you need to do is calibrate your extruder, this is a really good guide for how to do it I did it before first print and have had pretty good results try layer heiby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
by n9jcv - General Mendel Topics
Very precise adjustment of your Z axis Enjoy Custom Adjustable Z Endstopby n9jcv - General Mendel Topics