Quote3D-ES Can you explain what you mean? I probably don't know what I am missing...? It is rock solid, I don't have a bed probe and don't need one, I turn it on and it prints great. The upper frame assembly works for me! Screws to lift the top to tighten the belts are easy... Moving the top to tighten belts compromises the frames structural rigidity and effects alignment. You have to make a cby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quote3DRapidClone Note to the OP: Sheepdog created the Griffin and has a kickstarter for the Griffin Pro. There's obvious bias above. Further more, there is far more communal support for the Kossel Mini than any other Delta Printer out there. Op asked for opinions, opinions are always biased, that's why they are called opinions, not facts. Our Kickstarter has ended. I make nothing on open soby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Direct experience: Rostock - Problematic and NOISY, the wood reverberates sound. Good rods/bearings are not cheap, and cheap are noisy and short lived. Griffin OS - Cheap, simple, sturdy, any size you want (within reason), well documented, well supported. Griffin Pro - A bit more, but available as a kit, better resolution than almost anything else. Not shipping just yet, and no O.S. files untilby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
The real J-head may not be trendy or glamorous, but there's a reason it's the standard others are measured against and everyone copies. I can't tell you how many people told us we (Griffin 3d) could save a lot of money if we just used generics. Yes, we could have, but we would have sacrificed reliability and ease of use. You really have no idea how much hassle your parts are causing you, untilby sheepdog43 - General
In Cura's expert settings, make sure none of the "combine everything" boxes are checked (bottom right). Older versions had type A checked and on the Griffin OS, it filled in a hole on the lower frame mount.by sheepdog43 - 3D Design tools
QuoteAndyCart Quotesheepdog43 Endstops are ignored while printing. If you plan on only heating one area, it will need to be boro, otherwise you will break the glass. Not necessarily. I have a similar setup on one of my core xy machines. I use a 200 x 200 MK2A heat bed pcb but my glass bed is 300 x 300. I have a piece of 1mm aluminium sheet between the pcb and the glass and the glass is held inby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Endstops are ignored while printing. If you plan on only heating one area, it will need to be boro, otherwise you will break the glass.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quotewuz Sure, its just code, but then you only have one LED. I had one sensor not firing as a small piece of PLA got stuck next to the sensor, and I would have had a harder time to figure this out, if there is only one LED as the others chime in, at some point. Also the board comes already programmed, so the install is very very easy. You press a sensor light comes on, doesn't matter if there iby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Yes, just the reading changes. Some standard FSR's can handle PLA temps, but not ABS, most are only rated for 60c. So you will either need to insulate it or buy the more expensive ones. As for quality fo manufacturer, it doesn't matter and there is only a couple manufacturers.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Due to Halloween, the meetup this month is this friday, the 24th, Expected printers: Prusa 2, Lulzbot Taz, multiple Griffin Pros, probably a Griffin OS or two, a Kossel Mini or two, Ultimaker 1, a Wilson, and more than likely a Prusa 3 and whatever else happens to show up. It's the widest selection you will see in the area. If you have a printer (running or not), just want to learn (or need helby sheepdog43 - Missouri, Saint Louis RepRap User Group
QuoteRigor_M @sheepdog43: Got any good values you use that I could play around with ? I do all I can to avoid ABS these days. Unfortunately, will all the changes we did to prep for the Griffin Pro, all my settings where in constant flux. I have no idea what state my ABS settings are in or where they are. My best advice is print slow, and use walls to keep air out of the print area.by sheepdog43 - General
If you get ABS right, it will be stronger than PLA, get it wrong and it's brittle as heck. The problem is that ABS is VERY fickle about how it's printed: Too little airflow and you lose definition, too high of airflow and it becomes brittle. Allow the previous layer to cool too much before the next layer, and it won't stick. Allow it to stay heated too much and it will sag. Heat your bed too litby sheepdog43 - General
Quotewuz If you use Johns FSR board you don't have to reset it, as it adjust itself constantly. I think that's just part of his code in general as I think my Trinkets with his code does the same.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
You're welcome. FSR's return a different resistance depending on weight. How Johann's system works is the resistance exceeds a certain number the firmware treats it as being triggered. Heating them changes the number they send, so what will trigger it at room temp is different than what triggers it while hot. Johann's system was never designed for that and cannot compensate. Even changing the roby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
We've done the research on this, and the answer is... It depends. If you use Johann's code, it may be possible... You will need to really insulate the bed well as the readings could exceed what Johann uses to trigger. The problem with more insulation is that the more you place between the FSR and the bed, the less accurate your FSR's are. What fixes one problem, creates another. If you use a trby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Unless the controller is a brand name and cost quite a bit, it's going to be cheap Chinese and of questionable quality. It will work fine for as long as it survives, as mentioned, watch the heated bed mosfet that's one spot they LOVE to go cheap. As for the rest of parts, I would hesitate to go cheap on your hot end. You might get one that works okay, or one that makes your life hell.by sheepdog43 - General
Shouldn't need a powered hub, but the hub will at least let you know if it's a problem with the computer port or Arduino itself without risking further damage to the computer.by sheepdog43 - General
Quotehercek In such a position, the horizontal pair does not need to prevent rotation in the horizontal axe perpendicular to it (other two arm pairs will do it just fine). The horizontal pair still needs to prevent rotation along vertical axe (which would lead to smaller platform tilting too). Maybe you are right and these positions are significantly worse even when arm pair distance is big enougby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
The slicing problems were in regard to a 5 axis machine where the nozzle tilts. It's not going to be the same as normal slicing when your nozzle can print on the side of an object.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
It has a limit of 99, but still may not be calibrated. Yes, it can easily hit 50 or more. On my big printer I have to start with .5 accuracy, copy out the settings, then drop it a tenth and repeat until I hit .1mm Even doing that, it took it something like 300 iterations total.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart Another alternative is to use the system I use on my Cherry Pi IIIS models. It has all the benefits of magnetic attachment, precision, ease of removing the effector, etc but none of the draw backs. It's also really inexpensive to implement. Basically you have a drilled 8mm ball bearing on the end of each delta rod and a length of Spectra line attached to a spring to hold it all togeby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quotecdru Quotesheepdog43I believe I used 14ga for the bed, 16ga was not quite enough.Why was 16ga "not quite enough"? On dual 16ga, the wires warmed up, they weren't hot, but they were more than room temp. So I bumped then to a single 14ga, not only did the wires no longer heat up, the bed heated faster. These were only 8-12inches of wire. A HUGE number of people people are under powered so thby sheepdog43 - Controllers
QuoteFede3D So I guess to start with a conventional delta, and once I can print my custom parts in 3d, I can begin to experience something new without wasting too much money. It's handy having a printer handy to design a printer, but also starting from a known place and the ability to quickly try new things will really speed your design along for little expense. I priced a few parts out when desby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Ignore the resting angle, it's irrelevant. See the other thread for more.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Quotesheepdog43 Also, if you plan to auto level or auto calibrate, just reaching the edge of the build plate is not enough. The further out you go, the more flat one arm will be, leaving you little to no leverage to depress the probe. Even if you do have a little extra, I recommended not probing more than 75-80% from the center of the build platform to reduce wear and tear as it is VEby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Using 60 degrees is absolutely pointless. Tell me ANY time where that measurement actually matters to the printer. The only time it hits 60 degrees is at top, in the resting position. It has no bearing on how wide or tall you can print (other than getting in your way). It's a static measurement on a measurement that matters only when moving. Make sure your rods can reach the edge of your buildby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quoteplastik Hercek, thank you for the link you made up my mind is too much trouble doing the traxxas I am going the magnetic route. If only that statement were true. My advice, don't drink the Kool Aid. For everyone who says they are great, there are a bunch who couldn't even get them to work at all. Either the glue didn't hold the screws to the balls, weren't accurate enough and the effectorby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
I'm not sure at the exact moment it happened, however, 1.05 is not connecting to Smoothie on Windows 8.1 (and Windows 10) 0.9 works fine 0.95 works fine 1.05 recognizes that it's there, and will give an OK when you try to connect, however it will not actually connect. You get no error it just gives you the ok but does nothing. I would check some of the RC releases, but I don't have any availablby sheepdog43 - Repetier
Stable, yes, but on such a small surface, over time (especially at speed) the rollers on the sharper corners will wear. As for the price on V-Slot and such... Price out your wheels, bearings, nuts, bolts, rail etc (also look at accuracy!)... then re-check the numbers. It's not as high-priced as you might initially think. And sorry, but riding a wheel on such a sharp edge is NOT optimal. It workby sheepdog43 - General