First off let me say, while it seems easy enough to expand a design, it really, really isn't. A minor scale up is one thing but much more requires a near total rework of everything and from the sounds of it, you're much more invested in this than you realize and you have only just begun. Yes, your controller can work to an extent, you motors... maaaaybe. Your z axis may not quite cut it. You mayby sheepdog43 - Reprappers
Quoteramkam Some clarifications on why it's built like that / what i want to do with it. For what you are doing, it all makes more sense now, particularly with the motor placement. On your counterweights, The weights will help hold the effector up, and lessen the torque needed to lift and move the effector. However, they will do nothing for the effect of it swinging weight as they move perpendby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
I've run a 1000mm tall, 500mm wide delta with 50oz.in motors without problem. It doesn't take that much effort to move the effector, notice that all three motors support the weight of the effector even while powered off. Higher torque will allow you to move faster and I highly recommend 76oz.in. for large format printers, but it's not required. By the way, I would recommend putting the motoby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Been a while since I used Slic3r, it may not have one. I know Cura does.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Unless you are using a thrust bearing in there somewhere, your angle cut gears are generating sideload, this could be the source of your creaking. Misalignment makes the problem (much) worse. This is either creating drag on your filament, which under load will cause it to strip filament a little easier (or break or tangle it), or it's side loading a bearing. Get a good head jam or just experiencby sheepdog43 - Mechanics
I've run all types of extruder drive systems (other than belt drive) and a lot of extruders, and like I said, there was no difference in print quality. And change of direction being tough... You're kidding right? Those little gears do not even come close to the mount of torque required to re-direct a delta effector or cartesian carriage, particularly at high speed. Extruders run at such a slow sby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Your max Z height peaks at dead center, and tapers down to a low at the tower. You can take advantage of nearly all 200, IF your object is narrow at the top, but there is no settings to account for that in slicer or firmware, you just kind of have to be aware of it, or purposely limit your prints to the minimum max height. If you're worried, set your slicer to the lowest number and that will gby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
If your gears are beating themselves to death, you're doing something very, very wrong. The amount of slop in a planetary gearset is ridiculously small, and even after 9 months of heavy use hasn't changed a bit. I would be really surprised if your slop was significantly lower (considering the number of parts, and how crappy many most Gt2 pulleys are), but even if there is, it's not enough to mby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quotembauman89 Ok ive made up my mind... well kinda lol Its between the MakerGeeks Mini Kossel or the MakerGeeks Prusa i3 8in. I really like the Mini Kossel the only thing im kinda worried about is the build size... does anyone offer a bigger version? Which do you think would have better print quality and best consistency/reliability? Is there any good upgrades i could do to either off the startby sheepdog43 - General
Slop in the extruder isn't that big of a deal and is easily accounted for (add a little extra to retraction, done), what do you think we do for bowdens. Slop in your axis drivetrain, is a different story. Your hot end buffers imperfections, which is why you don't see the pulses as the motor pushes filament. A bowden can also buffer those pulses. More importantly though, have you ever looked atby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
I believe they typically use oil, a noisy one could need lube, or it could just be bad. However, there are plastic "bearings" such as Igus, however, Igus are expensive. Fear not, people have printed them (check Thingiverse), they really are much quieter. If you do print one, I would recommend ABS or Nylon, not PLA.by sheepdog43 - General
#1 I don't like wood in my printers, it warps and can reverberate noise. #4 is only plastics, nothing else. Expect it to cost more than the Kossel by the time you're done. #2 Small. Not a bad priced for a mini Kossel. If it fits what you want, it's not bad. Solid kit, with few moving parts to wear out. #3 Probably the best all around. It won't warp, not expensive, and is a complete kit. Solid kiby sheepdog43 - General
Most cheap Arduino and Ramps boards are built by low end Chinese manufacturers, regardless of who you buy it from. Both DX and Banggods, the Ramps is made by Geeetech, not sure about the Arduino itself. That Ramps lacks the mosfet heatsink required for a heated bed, but you can easily make or buy one, but do it fast, as it won't take much to blow. The stepper drivers also may need heat sinks andby sheepdog43 - General
Wood parts work, but I don't like them long term, some have no problems. I would upgrade in the near future. On your motors, torque isn't an issue, try and get all axis motors to be the same, regardless of torque. For your extruder though, you certainly want the most torque you can get. If you have a .5mm nozzle, you can use direct drive. .4mm you can, but you need a torquey motor. At .4 and sby sheepdog43 - General
35mm/s retract speed is really low from what I've seen, try doubling it (you may get skipped steps, if so, slow it down until that stops). Your steppers motors themselves can get too hot and stop, too. Are you printing with a computer, or from an LCD. If it's from a computer, that can be a problem. Make sure you turn off as much as you can, anti-virus included. If you are using Windows, openby sheepdog43 - General
QuoteToalla What do you mean by turn the steppers to the minimum? Turning the little screw on the drivers? Yes.by sheepdog43 - General
Ooze Retract speed is a big factor in ooze, as is nozzle size. I've heard .35mm is harder to stop oozing than larger nozzles. My advice, faster, longer retract, and lower your temp a bit. The lower temp will raise the viscosity a bit. I agree with the others on 2 and 3... Pretty common with ABS and sounds like the steppers or stepper drivers are overheating. Printed gears add quite a bit of dragby sheepdog43 - General
Could be a software limit in firmware or Pronterfrace, another possibility is your stepper drivers are still not set right. Either I'm deaf to that tone, or your steppers are too high if you are hearing significant noise. Put the system a few inches from the top, turn your steppers to minimum, then tell printer to home. It will sit and rattle. Now one at a time, up the stepper until that axis moby sheepdog43 - General
You don't really need 25x25 until you hit about 1000mm or bigger. Before you do that, I would go 20x40 V-slot or Open Rail or similar with a built in track system, it just saves so much hassle and money.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
I would highly recommend the Ultimaker, the V2 had some growing pains I hear, but the original, is a printing beast. Just remember, every printer takes some messing with to get it running well and staying that way, even the Ultimaker. As for the customer service... We had someone come to the local hackerspace with a Makerbot that had a jammed nozzle, and the story they relayed about customer supby sheepdog43 - General
If it turned without power, it was nothing inside the gearbox and the problem will likely return at some point. It may be a wire problem, which you may have fixed while taking it off and putting it back on, or the wire shifted enough to make contact. Go back and check any splices you made. An inconsistent connection is hard on stepper drivers.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Quotegrat I suspect you can get lots of useful information about the Griffin printer if you ask around here also. Absolutely. Griffin has a support forum (and good documentation), I also answer questions here, and the Google Forums. It's quietly building a following, but don't expect it to stay quiet for long, there are things going on that's not public yet, and more in the works.by sheepdog43 - General
Openbuilds is the manufacturer. Openbuilds has a few open source printer designs that use it for various axis.by sheepdog43 - Reprappers
Some think having only one bend is best, but that's not always easy, and in my opinion, a shorter bowden is better if your extruder has enough power.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Here's how we do it on the Griffin Pro Mini, best method I have found yet for small deltas. Mount the extruder on top, then go out and around the vertical rail. Oh, and I recommend you store the printer with the effector down, not at the top, this way the bowden stays stretched and not coiled up and flopping around.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
The bolt pattern is different, hence the need to change the mount or extruder. You also do not want gears on the extruder if you have them in the stepper motor, hence a whole new extruder. If you want to use it with a bowden, no problem. If you want it directly on the delta effector, bad idea. It's bad enough using a small PG35L on it, and that weighs 1/3rd or less of a geared stepper motor. Theby sheepdog43 - General
Oops, I meant nothing was as easy as a geared stepper motor. All the power of a geared extruder, with the simplicity of direct drive. Geared extruders look great, and on a cartesian are fine, on a delta, they can look clumsy and out of place, but the gear ratio is the best of the three systems. We solved that on the Griffin by using a larger hobb to dial back the gear reduction (it rocks). I waby sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
20x20 V-slot is even cheaper at $10 per 1meter length and Ultibots sells pre-cut lengths for the Kossel Mini at about $60. You don't even have to modify anything, they even provide the necessary STL files.by sheepdog43 - Delta Machines
Everything is right on the site: V-slot starts at $10 a meter, and wheels will actually cost you almost as much as the rails. Before you discount it, you have to consider the entire package. The rails may cost more, and you still need wheelsets and either buy a carriage or make one, ,but you don't need linear sliders, you don't need to fabricate a linear system. It's all there and made to workby sheepdog43 - Reprappers