I thinks it’s a pc04? 5mm to 6mm thread from memory... make sure you thread the coupler in straight or you will have issues... where are you located?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
That’s a KFB 2.0 board. Here’s an helpful instructable Link on the board.by madmike8 - General
Keep doing what your doing Orbitalair. Having built and used a Smartrap Mini, I know what the Pros and Cons are. It’s a great learning project, It prints well when if you leave it stationary. It’s finicky if you try to oversized it, or move it often. If you build it, and like 3d printing for very long, your gonna tear it down and use its bones for parts on your new printer... I still keep my oldby madmike8 - Developers
Yeah, I mentioned to you earlier that I prefered belts to strings when I was using the Smartrap Mini. Keep up the work... Mikeby madmike8 - Developers
Very Cool, Thanks for the details.. I've got a project for this.by madmike8 - Reprappers
That’s pretty cool. You want to give us some details?by madmike8 - Reprappers
Use a dell server power supply. Conversion link below Dell Poweredge 2800 930W PSU 12V@75.7Aby madmike8 - Reprappers
Kind of looks like my old Ordbot Hadron. It was a good printer. My brother currently has it.by madmike8 - General
I have an original Shapeoko. I think I paid $200ish for the kit minus electrics and motors when I bought it 4 years ago. My big purchase hobby budget is somewhere between $300-400 price tag. I have family and more important responsibilities that keep me from budgeting anymore towards hobby stuff. Important features, reliability, ease of use. CNC requires more setup when your ready to use it, so Iby madmike8 - General
I’m not sure if repetier is like marlin, but in your configuration.h file you will need to set true or false for your invert endstop. If your endstopsshouldnt be triggered then change it from its current state.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Look in your pins.h file for your board. If your using a ramps board XMin should be 3 and YMin should be 14.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Look for Skynet Firmware for Anetby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
Find/Rename fpos_t to fpost in the SdBasefile.cpp & SdBasefile.h files to fix it. I had it happen to me tooby madmike8 - Reprappers
The mini Smartrap was the printer that started it all for me. I had an Ordbot Hadron kit, but it was a bit overwhelming for me at the time. I then found the Smartrap, and ordered the plastic and parts off of ebay. It wasn't hard to get it assembled and printing, but took constant tuning everytime I moved it. I quickly moved from fishing line to belts, autobed level, and other upgrades. It printedby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Have you checked into making an encloser for your current printer? IKEA lack tables?by madmike8 - General
I like using Dell USFF DA-2 12v 18A power bricks for my printers. You can pick them up for around $12 on eBay. Of course you need to size your PS to your printer, but I’m using 120W - 180W heatbeds on my printers. Cut the end off. Tie the White (12v+) wires together. Tie the Black (Ground) wires together. Tie the Red and Blue together, and then to ground to turn on. I put a switch in line betweenby madmike8 - General
Search film heaters and you will find a 70mm circle 12W one.by madmike8 - Reprappers
I've run a no heatbed RAMPS printer on a 5A 12V Laptop Power Supply. I've run 120W 12V heatbed RAMPS printers on a 16A Xbox 360 and a Dell DA-2 18A Power Bricks for about 3 years with no issues. You need to add up the Amps your boards+steppers+hotend+heatbed use. Then give yourself some extra capacity. If your using cheap chinese power supply then you might want to double it...by madmike8 - Reprappers
You can just get a small piece of aluminum and attach a kapton heater to it.by madmike8 - Reprappers
I've been using aluminum tubes for X/Y axis and bronze bushings for 2 years now on one of my printers.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Hi-Temp Silicone baking sheet maybe? Like dc42, I use M3 threaded pillars, but inserted through 3mm ID automotive Hi temp silicone hoses.by madmike8 - Reprappers
My build. Smartrap Mini Github Page Smartrap Mini Reprap Wiki Smartrap Mini Build Manualby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Here are the 4.6 Files. I hope that helpsby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
The original Smartrap or the Smartrap core?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I built the Smartrap your looking at as my first running 3d printer. Mine was version 4.6. It printed very well once dialed in, but required constant recalibration because if you happened moved it at all you need to readjust it. The newer solid base ones may have fixed that? RegPye's Y axis mod is also worth while. It was a great learning tool, and printed off parts for my next printer. I eventuaby madmike8 - General
I tore mine down and built a Funbot M8 with the parts.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I had finished it up quickly, so I could give it to my brother. They are great machines once you get them tuned. I think with the newer versions of Marlin there is just a simple setting in the Configuration_adv.h, but if that fails you can just set the E1 pins to match the Z pin number in pins.h for your board if I'm remembering correctly.by madmike8 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
If I were you I would use Bluetooth to send the file to the SD card and then use the Bluetooth to start the print from the SD card.by madmike8 - Reprappers