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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: SmartrapCore HK13 (8mm rods - 13mm square Alu tubes) - 8 years ago
I'm trying to finish up some of my other projects. I look forward to building this in the future. Great Work!by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Robot Teddy Bear + Kinect + Arduino + 3d Printed Skeleton - 8 years ago
That's pretty cool!by madmike8 - Look what I made!
Re: Higher Step-Count motors? - 8 years ago
I have printers with both .09 degree (400 step) and 1.8 degree (200 step) motors. I can't see any difference.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Source for a few crimp connectors and housings - 8 years ago
Find an old computer case and cut off some led and button connectorsby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Ramps 32 bit alternatives? - 8 years ago
Dc42, I think you've finally talked me into buying a duet... I'm getting ready for another printer... So I'm going to try it out... Persistence does pay off...by madmike8 - General
Re: Wifi or bluetooth with ramps 1.4? - 8 years ago
ESP8266 to RAMPS Printing DIY ESP8266 5v Breakout Board Either way, I think I'd transfer the files to an SD card and then use wireless print from the SD card.by madmike8 - General
Re: Another newbie's Smarcore build - 8 years ago
Congrats on your first 3d print... now to tuning!by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: SmartrapCore HK13 (8mm rods - 13mm square Alu tubes) - 8 years ago
That's exactly what I was talking about for the bracing being built into the motor and bearing parts. Looks great. I can't wait to see it running. I've got 12 hk13 400mm extrusions setting here...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Another newbie's Smarcore build - 8 years ago
I like the ptfe liners. It's what makes cheap Chinese hot ends function. Lol. If your only doing ABS or PLA then get a nozzle with a liner.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: How to split large wheel that doesn't fit the bed? - 8 years ago
Like early age large machine gears. Print a central hub the max size of the bed. Then print the pizza pulley parts to bolt to that, and each other at the edges.by madmike8 - General
Re: Tinpau's SmartRap - A first 3d printer build - 8 years ago
My experience with the original Smartrap. Droop will happen. The auto level works pretty good, after you get the Z offset correct. The problem is if you move the machine at all, your going to have to redo the Z offset. Once dialed in, it prints wonderfully... Until you move it again. Of course my Smartrap wasn't mounted on a base which probably didn't help.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Tinpau's SmartRap - A first 3d printer build - 8 years ago
Doh, forgot to mention. extruder should be there tomorrow.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Connecting letters as one piece? - 8 years ago
OpenSCAD example union() { // 3d Lettering Background Bars translate([14, 3, 0]) cube([2, 40, 2]); translate([27, 3, 0]) cube([2, 40, 2]); translate([14, 23, 0]) cube([13, 2, 2]); // Text to Extrude rotate([0,0,90])translate([1,-20,0])color("black")linear_extrude(height=5) text("Think It", size = 10, h=10, font = "Liberation Sans"); rotate([0,0,90])trby madmike8 - General
Re: Another newbie's Smarcore build - 8 years ago
Test your end stops. M119 will tell you your endstop status. If Z is triggered you need to change its logic. Test by running M119 without metal near probe and led off. It should be untriggered. Then again sticking metal near the probe. When the led lights up run M119 again. It should be triggered. Once your sure your endstop logic is functioning correctly try again. Btw if your axis thinks it'sby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Making prusa i3 wireless via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi - 8 years ago
Look at the esp8266. I don't think I'd loose the SD card yet. It would be better to use the a web page to transfer the GCode to the ramps SD card and then start the print. Btw there's a micro Sd adapter for the ramps board. Think it's called ramps-sd. ~$3-5by madmike8 - General
Re: Tinpau's SmartRap - A first 3d printer build - 8 years ago
Tin? You located in the U.S?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Um, I call it FunSmartBot
- 9 years ago
I got a couple of the new parts printed today. Still need to get the X carriage printed.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Um, I call it FunSmartBot - 9 years ago
I clipped off the mount for the old funbot Y stepper off the Z base mount. This will allow it to be moved to the corner of the base board Moved things forward on the X Carriage. Added mounts for both X and Y endstops. Added 3rd X rod.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Um, I call it FunSmartBot - 9 years ago
I'm no designer by any means, but here's what I'm testing next. I added a spot for the T8 leadscrew nut on bottom, and the extra rod.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Ostensibly-named J-Head V6 - 9 years ago
You are correct until you meet the Chinese marketing team...by madmike8 - General New Machines Topics
Re: SmartCore ALU - 9 years ago
Hey 3dfreezeme, do you have your extrusions in hand? What's the external and internal measurements? I'm going to work on some bracing. Thanksby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Um, I call it FunSmartBot - 9 years ago
I've made some changes, and it's gotten better, but the Y axis still droops on extension. I think adding a horizontally mounted rod along with the vertical paired X axis rods would help this. I'm working on modifying the Z axis carriage for this and to be able to use a T8 leadscrew. I've also modded the base to remove the old Y axis stepper mount. I will update more when I get these mods done.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: New printer, need help getting it printing. - 9 years ago
Well, what was it doing when you put it away? What firmware is currently on it? How about some pics?by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Ostensibly-named J-Head V6 - 9 years ago
I've got 3 different all metal e3d clones. All with the PTFE liner. All work well with PLA and ABS. I always disassemble them and reassemble them before use.by madmike8 - General New Machines Topics
Re: Using Ramps for cnc milling? - 9 years ago
What firmware are you using? Disable your min and max temp settings in your firmware. You might want to look at "Mostly Printed CNC" on thingiverse. He's using a RAMPs board and has the firmware listed there too.by madmike8 - General
Re: want to ask how to wiring inductive proximity sensor to ramps 1.4 board? - 9 years ago
I have a M12 NPN 3 wire NO proximity sensor. Wiring it the way Smerrett79 did on his Smartrap Core.. Brown - 12v Black - Ground Blue - Signal I get a Dimly lit LED and 2.84v without metal near sensor, and a Brightly lit LED and 0v with metal near sensor. I connected the blue directly to RAMPS Zmin Signal as he said to, and it worked. I made sure ZMin Endstop Inverting was set as true like beby madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Inductive sensor issues - 9 years ago
Using the NO (Normally Open) NPN sensor I have Wired Normally Brown - 12v Blue - Ground Black - Signal I get 11.5v No LED without metal near sensor. Bright LED and 0v with metal near sensor. Wiring it your way. Brown - 12v Black - Ground Blue - Signal I get Dim LED 2.84v without metal near sensor. Bright LED and 0v with metal near sensor. Wired your way, I connected the blue directly to RAMby madmike8 - Smart_Rap