Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Inductive sensor issues - 9 years ago
Smerrett79, so you just connected the black signal wire to ground, blue ground wire to the ramps signal pin directly, and the brown wire to 12v? Is that correct? I just got a NPN proximity sensor, so I want to get it right. Thanks Mikeby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: mandrav's SmartCore build - 9 years ago
Just use whatever cad program you use to make a bushing holder that the internal diameter matches the outside diameter of the bushing, and the outside diameter matches whatever LMxUU bearing your using on your SmartCore. Press the bushings in place and then snap them into the head.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Um, I call it FunBot Simple
- 9 years ago
I hooked up the X and Y steppers and gave it a test run. Since I don't have endstops on yet, I was pretty limited with what I could do. Everything is kinda throwed together at the moment. I slso took some better pics of the Y axis. Funbot Simple Test Run Videoby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
I don't use repetier host or the Melzi board. Try downloading and using Pronterface to see if you can manually send gcode. http://www.pronterface.com/by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 9 years ago
I mounted mine to blow down onto the electronics.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Calling All Painters and Home Renovation Experienced Personel - 9 years ago
Killz Primer, and no Red Sharpies. Red bleeds through more. I don't think I'd do it. If I were going to do something like that, I would buy a thin sheet of plexiglass and screw it to the wall. They could write on that. When you move away, you can take it with you.by madmike8 - General
Um, I call it FunSmartBot - 9 years ago
Well, you should all know by now that I'm not very mentally stable... So, I crossed the Funbot with the Smartrap. No moving build surface. It uses bronze bushings of course, and trying to keep the Y Axis light as possible. 3/8" drill rods on the Z axis. 3/8" Aluminum tubes .049" thick walls on the X axis. The Y axis uses 5/16" Aluminum tubes .049" thick. I'm using a lite Nema Stepper on the Y axby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
Sorry, Date night with the wife... Anyways, I just installed Repetier Host. It looks like under the Manual Control Tab, G-Code text box. type the command and press send.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
Where you manually enter GCode. To get your current steps in Firmware use M503 To get your current steps in EEPROM use M501 M500 stores parameters in EEPROMby madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: need help troubleshooting an error! - 9 years ago
Do you have your thermistor set correctly?by madmike8 - General
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
I'm not sure what your using to send GCode to your printer Ponterface, Repetier Host, or something else. Send the M50? Commands from your host software. That will give you your current settings. Adjust how you want with the M92 command and try it. If it fixes it then you can burn it into your firmware with M500 or ad the M92 command into your start GCode.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
So, Z is off 1.5mm So, Im guessing you want to tune on the fly rather than through the Firmware. Anyways to your question... You can use M92 to set your steps per unit. M92 Zxxx.x where xxx.x is your steps per mm To get your current steps in Firmware use M503 To get your current steps in EEPROM use M501 M500 stores parameters in EEPROMby madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Z Steps Gcode - 9 years ago
So, if you printed a cube, is the height correct or still off? or it only on holes?by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Why are equilateral triangles so difficult? - 9 years ago
Nice work Olaf.by madmike8 - OpenSCAD
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 9 years ago
I use a USFF Dell 220W 18A DA-2 Power Brick. I used it because it was free to me. So far, so good on my Funbot with 4 steppers, SmartLCD, MK3 Aluminum Heatbed, and 40W hotend. I've only been running it a couple months, so I can't tell you it will last long term. But it's worth a shot if you can get it free. Dell USFF DA-2 Mod Linkby madmike8 - General
Re: Printing above bed - 9 years ago
Remove M206 Z-10; Z offset line and try againby madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 9 years ago
Thanks Cliff. The Xbox PS did great during the long print. I'm pretty happy with it. I'm printing parts for a #3 Funbot with the #1 Funbot. LOL. I'm going to test some different ideas with it. You really have designed one great printer! I probably won't start putting it together until I get the SmartCore done though.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
M119 is one of the most overlooked gcodes by newbie printer builders I think. Another good one is M114 which shows your axis postions. When setting up a new printer that' I've completed assembling and wiring, here's the order I do things. Hopefully it helps someone. With Power off center all axis manually, well at least have room to move in either direction. Set Vref with USB power only. Use M1by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 9 years ago
Also, as a note. I was so happy with the performance of Funbot #2 heatbed, so I bought a 160mm Kapton Heater for Funbot#1. On Funbot #1 I'm using an Xbox 360 203W PS. So far, so good. Today I'm trying a 8 hour print on it... I'll let you know if the PS can take it.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
Have you tried M119 and see whats triggered? If they show all triggered even when they're not, or all open even though they should be triggered then you can try inverting the endstop logic.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Madmike8's Funbot build #2 - 9 years ago
I think I have my Funbot's Bowden Slic3r settings pretty good now. Supports break away. No stringies. So, I'm going to attach my Slic3r config for others to try. If you have a Bowden setup, you might give it a try. Remember to set bed size and temp of your filament for your printer.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: smartrap core with aluminum extrusions? - 9 years ago
Mine is still a work in progress. I'm still working on a threaded Z axis. Here is Mandrav's though.. Mandravs SmartCore Buildby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: 5/16" Rods for X-Axis to Drilling Best Practices - 9 years ago
Those look like support towers for printing. You should be able to break them out easily with a screw driver.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Re: smartrap core with aluminum extrusions? - 9 years ago
Plenty of Aluminum Extrusion Core XY's out there... Just buy the bits and bolt it together. The SmartrapCore is meant to be made with wood and plastic in a simplistic design. It's not any worse, only different... You can use 6mm, 1/4", 5/16", or 8mm rods, printed, lmXuu bearings or bushings. It's just a different path to the same goal... Instead of a wooden box, I'm using 19mm / 3/4" square alumby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: Step by step build guide Tantillus - 9 years ago
Yup, it's not all there, but hopefully you can build it back from the ashes...by madmike8 - Tantillus
Re: And yet Another SmartCore build... - 9 years ago
I know Djinn is using Repetier on his, maybe he'll post up his files.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Re: The Dbot, a new reprap! - 9 years ago
I like it. Post some more info and pictures.by madmike8 - Look what I made!