Trying to get some decent quality out of my Prusa i3 .... not doing so good so far, still lot to learn. I'm testing with printout of dice , comes out size about 20x20x20 mm a) bottom layers get like a bit collapsed , see pic 002 , the bottom there is to the right side b) top layers get not totally filled up, see pic 004 Been trying to lower bed temp from 110 Celsius down to 90 , at 90 it start fby sidhabo - Printing
Good going Hlias. Thanks for feedback. Always nice to see happy ending to problems And also very helpful for other people that might have the same problem. Many people miss out on that in forums, once they are happy on problem solved ..... Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Had 12 V over led so I guess they are broken. Might have put on too much heat when soldering heat feed cables .... I'll get a led and see if I get that going .... just for fun. Not all that important when you have LED panel displaying current temp. Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Thanks DaveX , that was good advise Let you know how that goes Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Little confused on the supposed leds on my heatbed. From readings I guess this is actually leds that should light in some fashion. My "leds" has been totally dead from start .... light wise. If I measure over them with power off I get 994 Ohm, both directions .... so not sure if that is sign of good or bad. By a standard diod that would mean bad. Is it same for led diod ?? Anyone got this thingsby sidhabo - Reprappers
The seller had to provide the ship cost .... which they did now so problem solved Still stupid system .... me think Being committed to buy when seller hasn't done what's needed for me to be able to pay Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Oki then ... guess I'm mixing you 2 guys problem up maybe hehe If you suspect thermistor you can measure resistance with Ohm meter. My bed thermistor was 108 kOhm at 23 degree C and e.g. 12.8 kOhm at 70 At least the same basic should be for yours, lesser Ohm at higher temp When I had broken thermistor for bed, bed won't heat up at all since FW program stop on Heater error in LED Broken connectioby sidhabo - Reprappers
Steffman, seems to me you need to get your guy telling you how to reconfigur EXTRUDER heat feed from D8 (not working) to D9 I read him he tells you that is possible ... As I understand you it's only temp sensor you have relocated so far Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
I'll go for this one Heater Little more solid kit than the one broken. Just had some stupid problem with paying at e-bay Can't pay unless I give total cost including shipping Stupid to me .... second time on e-bay I'm committed to pay but prevented from paying ..... Guess it'll get sorted .... just stupid delay on delivery Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Great links ! Thanks Waitaki Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Quick look I'm guessing you can fix it in file pins.h But not really obvious what defines to alter ..... You have HEATET_0_PIN and HEATER_BED_PIN there Changing HEATER_BED_PIN my guess ..... but to what ???? *Edit* Hm , you actually have HEATER_BED_PIN set to 8 there in one row .... is it related to D8 ? Maybe change that to 9 .... on your own risk Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Seems your D8 output is dead then. Did you measure voltage directly on that output. Guess you should be able to use D9 instead. Not sure on how to reprogram FW for it though Hope some Arduino fan can help you out on that one ... Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
My heat to extruder head just stopped working I took head out and mesured ohm directly on the green thing heat cables are connected to (see attach) Infinite ohm so I guess the greenie is broken What is it ? Like a "heat resistor" ... Just trying to find out if I can go buy in my local shop or if I need to have it sent from Canada ... Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Reprappers
Will look at the FW setup for a way to control Z start distance in a programmed way ... or maybe go at editing my g-code manually ... to manupilate Z dist Trying to get the right offset by moving Z endstop, at 0.1 mm steps, seems utterly barbaric to me. Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Seems First layer height wasn't such a good parameter to "adjust" starting Z posision ..... If I set it below 0.3 I get no plastic feed ... above 0.5 slicer won't accept it Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Hm, just found out if I set First layer height bigger than 0.5 the slicer won't accept it Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Found Slicer setup Print settings->First layer height By adjusting that like 0.1 mm a time I can get the optimal Z distance for good printout. Just have to adjust home position manually for Z like just near zero or "folded paper" distance. Then you can use First layer height to fine tune best start height Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Kinda my plan too. Thanks a lot for sharing ww Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Ok, testing and learning. Seems it's real important to get the Z dist at home right from my learning. Like to the 0.1 mm. That's why it bugs me I can't find a better way to adjust that but freaking trial and error it on manual moving my Z end stop. I'll have to solve this a better way. Or it will bug me constant Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Yes, that make sense. If I look at my gcode first Z move is up to 0.5 , thereafter 0.3 for each layer Thanks Ran.. Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Thanks for reply Waitaki. Ok, I'll have to stick to manual adjust of my Z endstop. Until I figure out a better way One thing I'm a bit unsure of though .... If I basically set E head like 0.1 mm from bed. Isn't first layer printout best done with E head, in my case, layer hight 0.3 over bed ... Or is this taken care of in Repetier start code ... ? Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Just banging my head on finding some "scientific" solution to get my distance good adjusted printhead to bed. Most instructions include adjusting z end stop proper to get distance right. When I do home what distance should it be. I been trying get "double paper" like. Then I tried to mesure with manual feed of z axis so I could find the point where "double paper" was fine. Added that value in Sby sidhabo - Printing
Thanks for info Waitaki. That was very useful learning for me. Even though it seems pretty obvious, when you tell me, I wasn't totally clear on that fan is only to cool printed part, NOT extruder head I'll go check out that new learning now Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Done some 10 prints testing print dize. I only get printing finish if I turn off Auto cool in slicer setup When it's on with default values after 2 first layers fan turns on and Extruder temp goes slowly down from 245 C until printing craps out like when Xtruder temp is coming down to 200-210 Plastic does not attach any more. How is this cooling supposed to work ? Is that correct behaviour thatby sidhabo - Printing
Does not work for me either I use G-code G28 at top in Manual Control and click Send That works for me Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
M, it was a good help for me. Get it up to 110 fine with newspaper he he Just when I take it away I go pretty fast down to 90-95 .... Still help me to get printing going since I have temp well over limit of 100 that I set in Repitier config for Filament slicer setting Long as I'm not up to that temp my print job won't start going .... Just saying "Heating bed" in LED display What's ruining my pby sidhabo - Printing
Thanks for link Vreihen. Think I'll try cork then since my isolation does not seem so good. I will try the newspaper trick also. So your heatbed stay fine on 110 during printing even without isolation ? Ha det gött Bosseby sidhabo - Printing
Just printed my first ..... barly I have problem getting heated bed up to 110 degrees Most I had it on permanent manual heat was 101 That was after inserting 10 mm heat isolating between heated bed and aliminium hold up The isolation I bought from car dealer shop, kind of thing you use in car motor room. Maybe my isolation is not good enough ?? Wasn't able to find anything else at local shops. Nby sidhabo - Printing
Hi Gov I'm about at same spot as you are. Printed my first 10x10 mm dice Then going for 20x20 mm dice I get no plastic feed I noted temp of head went down from 250 to around 210 after first layers My guessing is that that temp is too low to get plastics feeded properly Just trying and get it worikin now when I turned off fan auto cooling in Slicer config for Filaments At least I have plastic feeby sidhabo - Printing
Yes, you are right Paul. You can choose as you like if you adjust statement in FW. Anyway I found out that X left Y rear Z bottom is what is compatilble to the Auto home function in LED Smart panel So I'll move my X endstop to left I also was incompatible with motion of Y motor (for Smart panel) So I turn connector of that motor 180 degrees to get that fixed. Now I can use Smart panel Auto homeby sidhabo - Reprappers