I am preparing my delta so it can have a heated chamber. At this point I have done the following. 1 - Printed an ABS end effector 2 - Aluminum plates are holding the effector sandwiched and stable even under high heat from the j-head. 3 - Aluminum rod arms (soon to be replaced with CF arms to reduce some weight, the end effector is getting very heavy) 4 - Added an automotive auxiliary ceramic heby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Holy smokes. 8 euro for 12 of those joints is a nice price, but freaking 26 euro shipping? ~50usd for ball joints? No way.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
For the same capacity passive PSU's are more expensive to manufacture, at least traditionaly. With that being said, newer designs of psu's are cutting this down as the efficiency of switching power supplies increases the power wasted decreases therefore the thermal needs are lowered. At the same time I have seen very cheap power supplies faild because of cooling when they were designed to be passby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
This sounds good to me. I built a delta printer already. I could probably give you some pointers as well. Although lugging my printer around is not exactly possible without a van for me. lets see how many reprapers want to join in around this town.by jaguarking11 - New York City RepRap User Group
I acidentaly killed my j-head. The head cloged and I heated it up and started removing sludge from the back of it with a 1.54mm drill bit. Guess what? I got a bit too harsh with it and now have a 1.75mm jhead with a 1.54mm-1.6mm nozzle. Holly hell I should have just soaked it in acetone. Guess I will be buying the new head now rather than later. Now to figure out if I want to buy the nozzle and bby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
The all metal j-head I was refering to is more like the e3d v5. Still a j-head style design, except instead of using a peek barrel they use an aluminum barrel with fins. I will order one sooner or later and evaluate and tweak it. If not satisfied I will be designing my own passively cooled extruder and call it a day.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
The reason I went with 1.75mm filament is because its becoming the standard. With a proper drive mechanism its reliable, light and has more options as of today. I think I may just buy a all metal j-head that has brass removable nozzles and a few nozzles/drill bits as well varying from .6mm to .8mm or even 1mm. That should make it easy to replace the nozzles and speed up my prints while layeringby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I am thinking of 50-60% of the orifice size is doable. However that would require me to run .8mm filament. probably have to ramp up the temps in the 260c range or higher to do so as well as increase speed.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I am running a chinese .4mm j-head clone with great results. I have nothing bad to say about the jhead design or the chinese clone. I also do not cool the jhead at all and it is mounted to an home made aluminum piece so the effector does not warp. With that being said. I am thinking of trying different sized nozzles. I like the .4mm head. I will be buying an all metal j-head with three differenby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
This was proof of concept. The creaking is from slight misalignment. I see your point about side loading, its not producing any noise bacause of that just yet. The bearings will probably grenade at some point, I have about 50 hours of print time with this so far. The proof of concept to me was the gear ratio's, its not my ideal range but its all I had. I am working on building a different style eby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Personally I would not use a gearbox when two pulleys can do the same job. That is my point on the matter. There is more than one way to skin a cat.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Why not go for a ramps/arduino setup? I bought a set for about 42bux shipped. It had the stepper drivers, smart lcd with sd card reader and a mega as a package. Smoking deal that I took a chance on, the reasoning was simple as I was not sure I could pull off my oversize design under my budget and skill. I went with a self built and self tweaked design and having no experience I did not want to spby jaguarking11 - Controllers
I was talking about 3d printed gears. I was not talking about gearboxes, those have their own slew of problems as well. Like some ridiculous gear ratios in the 5:1 to 40:1 range which in my book is way to high. One thing about planetary gearboxes is that they are durable as heck but not really very willing to change direction. As for gt2 pulleys being crappy. They do not matter much as the belt tby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I got tired of the direct drive extruder. It was unreliable, prone to jaming/flexing and the motor was way under stress. So I designed my own extruder. Its gears are borrowed from an old laser printer. It gives me a 1.77:1 gear ratio and slightly creaks due to a small missalignemt. However it does work perfectly, and I am quite happy with it. I will be designing and building two more of these extby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Because you can account for slop its still not ideal. You can can only go so far with software correction. The other point is that when you have gears that are constantly beating themselves to death your reducing lifespan and increasing user maintenance. If you collect the following parts you can build a nearly slop free extruder. 1 - main gt2 pulley 20T (go for a 16T or a 12T version to increby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I prefer the S bend. Putting the extruder at the bottom with a soft bend and a good clamping. Then the final bend at the head. It seems to make sense to me instead of the top of the printer.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Just a point about geared extruders. The slop in gears gets multiplied due to bowden setup. I would invest the cash on a set of pulleys and belt and build the extruder around those. You get nearly the same lash as direct drive. Also do not go crazy with the ratios, 2:1 or 3:1 seem to be the sweet spot otherwise you will be cranking the motors at high rpm. I am looking at buying two sets of pullby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
honestly if you get a piece of wood that is a few cm longer than the rods your trying to build you can make them identical. in the wood drill two holes precisely measured and use some screws or two drill bits to hold the length, then glue them one by one. You will get a consistent rod length that way. I am about to do this again as I used solid alu rods last time as I could not wait for the cf tby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I printed a high heel shoe as a gift to the wife. Hopefully she likes it. It looks awesome.by jaguarking11 - Look what I made!
So I wanted a geared extruder. I did not want to print gears. Not that my printer is low quality but I prefer comercial gears. Why reinvent the wheel. I started out by digging out an old bag of parts that has been sitting in my closet for at least 3 years. In it I have a crappy stepper and some very nice fine toothed gears pulled from an old HP printer. I could have used the stepper to power thby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I'm sticking with cura right now. It's working nicely with my atom box for slicing. I am getting better and better results with each print. However I have to slow my printer down a bit. The only thing I wish cura gave was an option on infill type.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
this is what I am using.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I am using generic valvoline high temperature synthetic grease. Its designed to pack automotive bearings. It also has a very high burning temp, 400F+. I have a tub of the stuff I keep for automotive applications. It is working nicely on my bearings. However next time I will be packing the linear bearings before I put them on the printer. Two negative things about this stuff. - its hard to apby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
This is what I bought for my rostock. Works out to be about 10bux per motor. They are suposedly used, although I find they all worked very well. The bearings in them have 0 slop. I am happy with mine.by jaguarking11 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I might give that a shot. I will be replacing my solid aluminum arms with CF rods at some point. I will be buying new joints for those arms anyway so I might give that a shot. My initial idea was to use 3mm ID bearnings and make my own universal joints.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I dislike the magnet solution. Traxxas joints are ok. I think a different joint with less slop is in order.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I am running wireless usb. Different principle. No raspberry pi here.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I run pronterface for my delta. Its been working fine for now. Have the custom buttons setup so I can adjust the printer or tweak the firmware. However I have been looking at Repetier host as well. I run marlin firmware. Any input on a host software that could be touch friendly? I have recently setup wireless USB and pronterface works well with it. Havent tried repetier just yet to form a proby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
That psu looks very good for ATX, it can put out up to 430w @ 12v peak. It seems like a good product. It should work quite nicely as long as it does not exhibit rail droop.by jaguarking11 - Controllers