Another thing that may be just as cheap if your using 12v only psu would be to buy one of those pharmacy store usb car chargers. They are like 4-6usd and wire them to the psu's 12v out. I plan on doing that for my wireless USB bridge.by jaguarking11 - RAMPS Electronics
Eprom is all fine and good, but its no replacement to modifying the firmware properly for your build. I turned eprom off on my printer, as well as auto leveling is off. Its the harder way to tune a printer, but also the most reliable. I am now sadisfied with the settings and will be turning on those two features to increase accuracy and repeatability. However I do not like the microswitch/servo sby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
The only thing I do not like is the second thermal probe. Your adding two more wires, and two more connectors. Your increasing complexity by two fold, the chances of failure double as well. One thing I am using at this point are the RC car battery connectors TX-60 style. They are inexpensive and can carry up to 60amps. With that being said I would find a way to fasten the connectors to the headby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteDannydefe @ jaguarking11 I believe the numbers are correct because when I request a movement in Z, I measure it with my calipers and it is correct. I did use this formula ( ) and it verifies I have the correct steps. Well I see this line. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 439.5} Change it to #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {88.889, 88.889, 88.889, 439.5} Thiby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
You have it set to 20t pulley there. Change the firmware to reflect that. There is a formula in the wiki. I will check in the am. If needed I'll run the numbers for you.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
If you use a strip of that steel plate as a heat break from the thermal block you could in essence use a lower rated thermal fuse. All it would take is some experimentation on length of strip. Let's say you heat up the hot end to 200c and measure the steel strip at the edge. And it measures 100c and when you heat up at 240c it measures at 124c then you have the curve you want. Select proper thermby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
That is 20amps peak. PSU's are rated in total wattage/amperage. Someone mentioned fires with these chinese units as well, be careful. To rehash the psu notion around here. Here are some possible options. XBOX 360 psu ~230w = 19amps on it cost 20-30 bux. And some hacking. ATX psu ~ 250-1kv depending on the type, 20-350 bux and honestly not a good choice. Chinese PSU 250-400w 20-60bux, however unby jaguarking11 - Controllers
if the end stops are lighting up and your printer is not stopping then you may also have to play with this part. const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false To this? const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = trueby jaguarking11 - RAMPS Electronics
Need more info. Sounds like the pulley teeth or fishing line diameter is not set properly. Also what are your microstep settings set to? Do you use 1/16th? 1/8th? etc etc? Yours seems to be set for GT2 20T pulleys.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
It's not odd at all. Every element has its failure point or peak energy absorbtion. The wire wound stuff seems to be designed in a way that it won't start a fire. Instead it will self destruct. I suspect that has to do with the ignition point of a pcb. If I recall correctly that should be in the 400 to 500 centigrade range..... therefore it's designed to fail instead of ignite. At least that isby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
Hmmm. Must be my machine being underpowered then. Takes about 2 min to slice my extruder. I do like cura tbh. Figured I would ask.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
We already use a thermal break between block and filament feed. Why not use another thermal block between fuse and block is the point. 300c thermal fuses exist. It's just that some cost more than the hot end. Look at thermal fuses meant for gas fired furnaces. They are made of a ceramic something or other. However even those are using a thermal spacer these days. Why use a 150 dollar part when wiby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
I have been using cura lately in expert mode and tweaking as I print. The quality has certainly come way up on my prints. I used slic3r before = results were passable for what I needed but not exactly user friendly to me. I used kisslic3r as well = almost the same results as slicer but wraped in a nicer package. Slightly better prints, and one head crash as I set the print speed way to high. Iby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I have been reading about this topic and doing my own thinking about using a proper thermal fuse on the hot end. As of now I have a j-head hot end with peek. I will be designing a larger all metal hot end soon enough. One of the things that interests me is the thermal fuse solution. I have seen this applied many times before. I think some testing is necessary to assure the right measures. The ideby jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethejollygrimreaper i have done this test again one the 12v power supply and the wirewound 5.7ohms resistor seems pretty safe it topped out at 330c odd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVRwHwxNy7s I too am afraid of those ceramic heaters. Do you have a part number for the resistor? Or a place to buy it? I would not mind having 5-10 of them as spares.by jaguarking11 - Safety & Best Practices
I moved to the us when I was a youg boy. I can say this, if you start using imperial units its a crap shoot for mostly anything out there. American car manufacturers dumped imperial units in the late 70's because it made things much more complex and archaic. Design things in metric units and do the conversions in a calculator, your designs will be better, and so will your head from not convertingby jaguarking11 - 3D Design tools
Tthese are rated for ac as well as DC so they do have some smoothing. I ordered a small hour meter from china... ~7bux, will be connecting it to the 12v psu and calling it a day. I want to know the operating total time, no matter if idle or working. I ordered a 6 segment unit with a 1 segment giving 10ths, That is good enough to measure close to 12 years of continuous use.by jaguarking11 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Mine says its made in italy....... yahhhh. The rule is you do get what you pay for. My arduino has been flawless. It has been working its butt off on my printer and has not shown any signs of problems. The ramps 1.4 I bought has two short comings, 16v caps and mosfets that are not really up to high spec. I ordered mosfets for the board just in case I have to swap them out, however I can say evenby jaguarking11 - Controllers
I just took a look at my printer notes. There is a bunch of math that went into this thing. The smooth rods are roughly 814mm long. And the radius is around 206mm, my effector rod length is 334mm eye to eye on this thing. due to my bed being on the smaller end of the spectrum I loose about 5mm of space on this thing for a cylinder that is 340mm X 365mm high, I was aiming for 350mm X 375mm, missedby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
IF you stretch the rods at the ends it will reduce, not eliminate the sag. How much tolerance is required? I use 8 8mm rods on my delta. They are 36inches long.... Roughly 914mm, the do move a small amount, however they are not bad. You have to stretch them a bit if you want them to stay put. As others have mentioned. Tubing would be better. Steel wire conduit could also serve as a cheap alternby jaguarking11 - Mechanics
Quotettttrigg3r Model Prusa i3 This is probably the millionth time someone asked this question, but where should I turn to for the Mega board? My first printer I built with the kit bought from Ultimachine where the RAMPS1.4 came with the Mega2560. It came as a group project so someone bought the parts for me. Now it's time for me to build my own Prusa i3 printer and buy the parts myself. I loby jaguarking11 - Controllers
Let me know how that hot end works out. I have a peek jhead on mine. However I am on a quest to make all things metal on my printer. I have been looking at that hot end for a while wondering if it is truely 100% all metal. If it is, is the barrel polished or plainly just drilled. If its not polished properly it will jam. However you should be able to polish the barrel with a drill bit and some saby jaguarking11 - Controllers
You should really calibrate the stepper drivers. Mine were set to max, which under normal conditions would mean the motors could skip steps due to internal thermal shut down and overheating the steppers to 80c+. Are your stepper IC's sinked? Do you cool the ramps and the stepper drivers? I would check out this link and tune the system properly. I looked for the link on reprap wiki, but the pics sby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I have a suspicion that the torque required on the outer edges of the delta is higher than when printing in the middle. Have you calibrated the stepper drivers? My stepper drivers were at .65+v. I calibrated all of them to .42v if I recall correctly. This gives me a bit over 1 amp if im not mistaken. Also are you having any mechanical binding? I print ABS at 225c-230c depending on my speeds. Currby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
The aux pins look like they will do the trick. I may just get a single or two relay module for arduino and try this out with the aux pins. Being that there are more than 1 pin I could separate the circuits. Not a bad deal. Thank you for the input.by jaguarking11 - RAMPS Electronics
Its funny, I keep my bed around 80c and the head gets a 230c first layer then 225c on every other layer. However my j-head is not cooled at all. I am working on a different head design for my delta. I am in the drawing stages right now. However I do not feel actively cooling a hot end is necessary.... At least with the right design. I have to say that as of now im only printing in natural color aby jaguarking11 - Ormerod
I want to run a separate piece of electronics from the ramps board. The idea is using a SPDT Relay. This is to control a heated chamber via the ramps. For example if I can send a m81 command at the end of the print it energizes the relay which in turn cuts power to the heater and energizes a sucker fan to evacuate the print chamber. Now I found there is a M80/M81 command that toggles a pin. Myby jaguarking11 - RAMPS Electronics
Hello; I am using a ramps 1.4/mega combo for my delta printer. I plan on building a heated chamber for the printer now that its working fairly well. However I would like one feature to add to the printer in an automated fashion. I would like to add automatic heat evacuation of the chamber. The plan is simple, get two pins that switch on a 3 pole relay when the print is done. The flow wouldby jaguarking11 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If you go to and then import the STL files into sketchup you can use the measuring tool to see the size of the objects. You will need to learn some sort of 3d tool if you hope to make any parts with the printer anyway. Might as well start now. Unless you plan on always downloading other peoples work and printing. Which is fine, but at that point you might as well just buy what you need.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Quotejaguarking11 This is what I used for my printer. You don't have to be 100% acurate on the rod lengths, however you do have to be very accurate to match the rods to each other as close as possible. I have roughly .1-.2mm difference in mine, its as close as I could get. I am also using solid alu drilled and tapped. I recommend CF tubes instead. Not as expensive as you think. If you need some pby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines