You may want to try my own extruder design. It doubles the torque of your stepper while still maintaining overall speed. In my experimentation in the past with larger bore hot ends, I found that overall temp to extrude was not a significant problem, the main issue was thermal mass on the hot end. It caused the temperatures to vary wildly on the hot end leading to jams. Insulate the hot end blocby jaguarking11 - General
Its awesome to see italian makers offer something like this. Congratulazioni ragazzi!by jaguarking11 - General
Reprap Speakers? How about these? ----> I will see myself out for that joke.by jaguarking11 - General
MY belts are running tooth side on the idler. It will introduce some errors. The rods themselves in my configuration are stretched and do not bear the belt tension. The rods are placed and adjusted for optimal movement and then streched via threading the rods and placing nuts on them. There are some alu tubes on the sides that are under compression providing frame rigidity. The belts are GT2 wby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
To follow up with this. I got the metal effector in the mail. Its definitely way too heavy. Its also has a very small hole for the hot end. I am hoping to bore the effector out in the middle to atach the heat sink. I only print with abs, my retraction is less than 4mm, there is no problem in printing with no fan if the machine is not closed. Now that I have a heated chamber I installed a cheap veby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
My delta has a hair over 2m worth of belt. I cannot help but notice one thing. ~1/3 or maybe 1/4 of the belt is there for no good reason. I have run my larger delta at speeds that approach 160mm/s and even as high as 200mm/s in testing. (found some missed steps at anything over 160mm/s, seems like my nema 17's cant cope with the weight of the carriage and the 340mm/rods.... Here are the findiby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I have a heated chamber on my delta, Yes the motors and electronics are outside the chamber. I have the chamber insulated as well. Here are a few things to consider. - 90C is way too high, I run between 40-60C depending on the size of object. If its under 100mm cubed then no heating is necesary for me. Larger objects require 60c (300mm and bigger) - Insulation, you will be fighting to keep theby jaguarking11 - General
Quotedc42 Quotejaguarking11 I was eyeballing your LCD a while back and understand its full of features. What are good US suppliers that could sell me a Duet 0.6 and Duet Sheild? Sadly, there are no US distributors for the Duet 0.6 or the Duet shield. RepRapPro (who make the Duet 0.6 and the Duet shield) don't seem to be interested in distribution. OTOH, I know that Think3DPrint3D is looking forby jaguarking11 - General
Quotedc42 To meet your networking requirement, you need a Duet with RepRapFirmware. No other firmware provides a decent web interface, and no other board (with the possible exception of the Alligator - I haven't checked) offers a decent upload speed over Ethernet to the SD card. RepRapFirmware is an excellent choice for delta printers. No other firmware AFAIK provides segmentation-free delta movby jaguarking11 - General
I have a ramps 1.4 with a 2004 LCD and a small wifi router that runs USB/IP. I have been looking for a new controller for my printer and future printers. My Printer is a self built DELTA machine. The next one will be a core XY machine. The next printer is going to have a larger build area than my current delta at 12x12x16 inches. The next one may be in the 24x24x24inch size or even larger. Wiby jaguarking11 - General
I just ordered a kossel effector in metal. 13bux shipped. Not a bad deal. I am hoping to use it as part of the heatsink and remove the fan altogether.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
QuoteGITRDUN Almost all CNC machines use mechanical endstops for the axes. Some of these machines cost upwards of $100k and much more. If mechanical works good enough for those its good enough for my $500 printer. If opto was more reliable or more accurate i gaurantee they would be using those instead. One more thing that those CNC machines have is a service contract. Does your 500$ printer haveby jaguarking11 - General
Why not go with a cheap set of hall switches and some neodinum magnets. They are working well for me. Optical switches are also cheap. But cant beat less than 20c per chip on hall effect switches. One thing I noticed with my mechanical switches was fatigue of the sprint arm. Here is how I built mine and how I tried to measure their accuracy.by jaguarking11 - General
Layer width should be a multiple of your nozzle diameter. if your nozzle is .4mm then you should have a .4mm layer width. Try that and see if it works.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
My printer has a heated chamber set to 50c. The first few prints have been stable enough. Since I replaced a bunch of components on the printer now I am dialing it in. As of now I heat the bed to 100c and nozzle to 245c as well as set the chamber temp to 50c. However the temperature gradient on the chamber is not so good right now as my heater is ontop of the printer and the hot air is not beingby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I would go for a bit undersized drill bit. 2.8 or even 2.7mm drill bit.by jaguarking11 - General
I did another hot end rework video. It shows how to polish the heat break as well as how to compensate for downsides in design. What do you think?by jaguarking11 - General
Thank you. It seems like most of the parts are there. It gives me an idea of what I need. I am going to purchase some parts and hopefully build my second delta printer soon.by jaguarking11 - Fisher
I have been looking for the design files as well as the BOM for fisher. I can't seem to find them. Anyone know where they are or is this closed source? I would like to 3d print my own fisher version.by jaguarking11 - Fisher
I replaced the mechanical end stops with hall effect sensors. I tried to measure their repetability, it was better than the tolerance of the depth gauge. Here is a video for it. If videos are not your thing, here is a blog entry regarding this. Any thoughts?by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I was using feeler gauges last night to set up my 3d printer. My method is as follows. I take a rough estimate of the height first with a ruler or tape measure. subtract about 3mm from that and flash. I set the printer head down and use business cards stacked ontop of eachother to get closer to the measurment. Then I switch to my feeler gauge set, you can feel friction in the feeler gauge, thby jaguarking11 - General
Quotewfcook How are you cooling the hotend in the heated environment? Is the temperature in the chamber low enough that the hotend fan still provides adequate cooling? Honestly it has not been an issue as of yet. I have done a 3 hour print with the heated chamber at 50c. It has not been an issue so far. Honestly I don't think its going to be an issue, if it does I will use a flexible silicone hoby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
With a hot end you have two options when purchasing. 1 - Buy the best ones out currently and make it work with your printer. 2 - Buy the cheapest one and spend time and effort to make it work properly. Since I am a cheapskate I chose the latter, but I can say this. How much is your time worth? I personally like to work with my hands so its more like therapy to me than work. I even created twoby jaguarking11 - General
I have finaly finished enclosing my delta printer. I need to add another layer of internal insulation however for the most part the heated chamber is done. For a heater I am using a automotive 100w auxilary heater. It is being controlled by a small thermostat that I bought from aliexpress. This is a video of the printer in action and a bit of info. If you have any questions or coments pleby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I skipped all the magnetic stuff and went to igus spherical bearings. I have to say they are of very good quality. A small spring on the rods removes all slack. Were they cheap? Hell no cost me about $50usd to get a set. But honestly they have been bullet proof so far. ~300hours.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I use a dc-dc boost converter to up the voltage to my bed. I run 14v through it and it heats up to 105c in about 10minutes. Planing on wiring my bed for 24v and pumping in nearly 30v through it to reduce losses and make the converter more efficient.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Friction, the surface area is lower with 1.75mm filament, therefore allowing for better torque transmission. Weight - the main reason for going bowden is weight. 1.75mm hardware may be negligibly lighter, but the tube is more flexible as well allowing for better working weight and less torque lost through parasitic forces. Retraction speed may also be better with 1.75mm filament - just a huncby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
I tried out some tungsten filament. Here is a video review of it. Overall I have to say I like it allot. But it is pricey to buy.by jaguarking11 - General
I have never had a push fitting go bad. The tube edge has gone bad on me requiring me to cut out a 4-5mm sliver and reinsert. Why are you guys having such issues? I use the cheapo chinese push fittings and never had a problem.by jaguarking11 - Delta Machines
Im already there as far as build surface etc. 120w is enough to reach 105c on the bed for sure, my stock 12 x 12 heated PCB bed with a 2mm layer of aluminum and a glass mirror on top is enough. Using a DC-DC boost converter to bring up to voltage to 14v or so will reduce heat up times to under 10minutes. I only print in ABS, no PLA here ever. But I can say that even when tuned properly the printeby jaguarking11 - Delta Machines