Show all posts by user
People building or using RepRaps.
Can you suggest a better way to tighten belts? - 9 years ago
Hi, Some of the answers to the print quality questions I have posted suggested backlash or not enough tension on belts. Here is how my belt setup looks from top-down view: As you can see, I have to make 2 loops (on the picture there is only 1 in place). The first loop doesn't really matter, as it is the anchoring point. But the second loop is the step that adjusts tightness, so it is crucial.by drmaestro - Reprappers
Re: Does layer content change layer width? - 9 years ago
The errors at the corners are probably due to the temperature. I don't have a part cooling fan and I am extruding Colorfabb nGen at 230 degrees. There is some curling at the corners while it is printing. Also the nozzle path isn't very different on all of the layers. I don't know why but Simplify 3D applies a different strategy while printing thin walled objects. I chose a fixed coordinate on Xby drmaestro - Printing
Re: Do we have a verdict on remote driver solutions? - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe Quote I know both of them are very new and the creators are also on the forum so they might provide some input.o Do you want to start a mud fight? What's the point asking the creators about their opinion? İ don't want to start any fight at all, I apologize if my wording gave you such an impression. However, when you consider about buying one,(they are quite expensive for an extrudby drmaestro - General
Re: installed titan extruder, questions - 9 years ago
For the motor, you can just unplug the connectors at the board and reverse it.by drmaestro - General
Do we have a verdict on remote driver solutions? - 9 years ago
I am trying to collect info on the flex3drive and zesty nimble. I know both of them are very new and the creators are also on the forum so they might provide some input. What are the main differences? Anything that makes one better for an application compared to the other? Is the print quality similar to what you can get on more established solutions (Titan/Wade/etc)? Which one is the best optby drmaestro - General
Re: Does layer content change layer width? - 9 years ago
QuotePDBeal If it is slicer software based, you should see the lines in the preview window of the g-code. I'm not sure if that's possible in Simplify 3D, but I would assume so since it's available in Cura and Slic3r. They seem to be perfectly aligned on the preview window.by drmaestro - Printing
Does layer content change layer width? - 9 years ago
Hi, I've got this unsolved mystery going on. Right now my printer is quite solid and uses mostly linear rails (except on the Y axis). Look at this test object: As you can see, there 2 distinct bands on the surface of the object and they are exaclty located at the layers where there is a hole at the back side of the object. They are aligned perfectly in themselves but they are shifted compareby drmaestro - Printing
Re: Uneven surface problem - 9 years ago
So what did you do to increase quality (amything you haevn't mentioned). Do you still have the problem?by drmaestro - Printing
Re: Question about stepper motors and drivers - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 You would almost certainly be better off connecting your Z motors in series instead of in parallel. Can this be achieved in RAMPS? In its original form, you have 2x4 header pins in front of the Z stepper. If you directly use those two, does that mean you are connecting the motors in parallel? If so, how can you modify it to be in series? Do you have to solder the corresponding motorby drmaestro - Reprappers
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 9 years ago
Did you find a solution to your problems? I am looking answers for a similar inconvenience and was wondering if you have been able to fix it.by drmaestro - Printing
Re: Question about stepper motors and drivers - 9 years ago
Thanks dc42. I used a voltmeter to measure the vref and the maximum that can be supplied is 5.5 volts (even though the web site tells they can go to 7.5 volts) so they can only provide 1.1A. Is it also enough? And for the Z axis, where there are 2 1.7A motors, is this still enough current? (considering RAMPS of course). When you tell that the current Duet limits TMC2660s and that is about toby drmaestro - Reprappers
Question about stepper motors and drivers - 9 years ago
Hi, All of my stepper motors are rated 1.7A (but different voltage levels). I use LV8729 drivers,( these), and according to the web site above they are able to output 1.5A (but more advisable to use at 1.3A). Would that mean it is not possible to use these drivers with these motors? The machine works somehow and I don't have missing steps problem. I can even observe that the motors can get verby drmaestro - Reprappers
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
QuoteTraveler0612 Would this extender cable be of any use? It sure would, and seems to be a very nice solution, if it works of course. Some comments on Amazon mention about not working on certain ports or having an ustable microsd side connection.by drmaestro - General
Re: Testing the effects of microstepping and segmentation on print quality - 9 years ago
Three questions, to which I think people might be looking for an answer: 1) Do these tests apply for cartesian printers? 2) Is RRP the only firmware doing that kind nonsegmented movement? Does Smoothieware have an alternative or is it using an approximation? 3) Does anybody with a cartesian printer, who used Marlin and upgraded to Duet has an objective proof about increased print quality. Itby drmaestro - Delta Machines
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
Quotesungod3k Just read the panel section in smoothie documentation and voila the lines disappear as soon as you take out the displays sd card. Also the menu feels more responsive now. I also had some weird crashes/skipped steps during SD prints, so onboard SD card from it is from now on. The onboard SD card is harder to reach for me and also a bit more risky, as it is possible for me to dislocaby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Hi that's a shame about duet board. Where are you based? I'll take your card payment if you want me to buy one and send it on to you. I have noticed improved print quality with rearm. But duet is a level above especially for deltas. Perhaps I see it more as the duetwifi is running my kossel Xl which was a no expense spared build where my corexy is only middling in terms of precisiby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotedrmaestro About print quality on Duet: I don't have one and cannot buy one to compare it, because apparently every seller accepts only PayPal, which we can't use in my country since June 2016. I suggest you create a thread about this here . Payment by wire transfer may be possible. I'll do that, however wire transfer is generally expensive (the last time I checked, it required aby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD 2) If you are not on a tight budget get a Duet board, where none of these issues are present, print quality is amazing and the support and community involvement is second to none, right now users get to vote on new features being added to the firmware. About print quality on Duet: I don't have one and cannot buy one to compare it, because apparently every seller accepts only PayPaby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
Quotenebbian Quotedrmaestro However those random freezes and some artefacts (horizontal lines appearing on the LCD) on the LCD are some concerns. If it ever freezes during a print, I'll be going back to Mega. Nice work on getting it up and running Mine's still sitting on the bench as I work through how to get it fully functional. Regarding those horizontal lines, are you printing using the eby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
I figured out how to start printing. I have to use this gCode: M280 S3.0 ; BLTouch Pin down G32 ; Bed mapping G1 X123 Y0 F3600 ; Go to the first point of the 3 point leveling strategy G30 Z1.4; Set Z offset M280 S7.0 ; BLTouch Pin up My 3 point leveling strategy has homing X and Y set to true, so I don't need to home the X and Y axes first. There is no Z homing, you just send the head to the fby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
And a very quick update: I had a spare LCD cable. I cut the same cable that the adapter cable has splitted and put a Dupont connector on it, replaced the adaptor with that new cable and everything works now. The problem was with the cable. Now, let's figure out how that BL-Touch thing is going to work. It seems to be a little bit more complicated compared to Marlin, as Snoothieware has some pby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
I am very very sorry, wrong link. That was a past acquisition and I mixed it up. Here is the real link:by drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
DJD: My RAMPS did work normally before. I didn't need to plug any power source to the Mega. The board has the D1 diode and according to the images I can find on Internet, its direction is also right. Yes, I tried both of the 5 volt options on the back side of the re-ARM, didn't make a difference. Dust: I've bought it from Aliexpress . Here is the link : I don't think it is the geetech one,by drmaestro - General
Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 9 years ago
I have tried to change the Mega to Re-ARM today and I have got a problem (not a big surprise ) When I turned the power on, the power led on RAMPS and on Re-ARM turn on for a few miliseconds and then go off. I cannot connect to Re-ARM in this case using USB connection. I have a graphical discount LCD and I also have the adapter for Re-ARM. I have observed that if the adapter is unplugged, Re-ARMby drmaestro - General
Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 9 years ago
I need some info on BLTouch with Re-ARM. I have seen the servo code on Smoothiware. I'd like to know if we can use the same servo pin (1.23) for re-ARM. My BL-Touch is connected to the first (leftmost) servo connector. I assume we also have to enable Z probing, using pin 1.29 for Z min.by drmaestro - Controllers
Smoother movement - 9 years ago
Hi, I'd like to ask a question about steppers. As you know, you can feel the steps, if you turn the shaft manually. You aiso feel the steps when the stepper is connected to your carriage and you move the carriage manually. If you can feel it, that means that it introduces some kind of vibration to the carriage and this can influence print quality. Is there a smoother alternative to stepper motorby drmaestro - General
Re: Weird Z artefact - 9 years ago
Found the solution! This kind of wobble was a chronic problem of mine and I have posted about it before. It did come and go apparently randomly. I was using the Prometheus hotend, but had some consistent feeding problems. I couldn't finish many of my prints, as the hotend was jamming at random intervals. While I like Prometheus, as it is very small and can heat up very fast, I gave up and chaby drmaestro - Printing
Weird Z artefact - 9 years ago
Hi, I am trying to discover the reason for the following artifact. I have printed a unicorn as shown below: The print was oriented horizontally, as seen on the picture.The left side, which you can see on the first picture, is OK, except 2 linear prominent disalignments at the neck of the horse. However, look at the other side: There is a wobble like artifact, which is very prominent on thby drmaestro - Printing
Re: Cloned titan extruder review/opinion... - 9 years ago
Congratulations nebbian, excellent modification. I don't have a grooved bearing. Would the following be ok: Link The part needs to be quite strong so your suggestion on using PETG is very sound. Do yo think 20% infill is enough? And a follow-up to my modifications: Yesterday I have printed an object for 4 hours. No clogs or clicking sound, so it probably works. I will test with a flexible filamby drmaestro - General
Re: Cloned titan extruder review/opinion... - 9 years ago
Quote I've had similar issues. Looking at this closely, it seems to be due to using a flat idler bearing, instead of one with a fillet. The flat idler bearing squishes the filament out of round, which then gets stuck partway down the hotend. This is especially visible with PETG, not so much with PLA or ABS. Try this: Take some filament, insert it a couple of cm past the gears. Release theby drmaestro - General