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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteJonny Five Your X setting is going to similarly be what you've discovered for the Y. If your homing directions are correct, then it's your +/- logic that needs to be changed. The Z axis issue can be solved by 1) increasing the voltage on your stepper motor potentiometer (but not too much as you'll overheat, read up on this and measure it with a voltmeter to make sure you aren't going too hiby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Hi guys, So after having some great success with Repetier host firmware, I'm now trying to get my printer working with Marlin. And it's an Epic Fail I've read some posts here and tried to follow recommendation about axis and endstop settings, but it's not working. In fact not a single endstop works. I did get movement directions working correctly. Can someone post their Configuration.h file sby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
Looks like Lift is not enabled... Lift Z is 0mm Length: 1mm Speed: 30mm/s Extra length on restart:0 Minumum travel: 2mm Retract on layer change: (checked) White wile retracting: (not checked)by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
Quote3dkarma Are you using lift? This combined with low retraction may cause peaks. The head passing back over the peaks would overheat and brown the filament. What's a lift?by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
I have a strange problem with my Prusa i3 rework. It prints good all layers except for 3rd before last. It's layer that start closing infill. It starts laying broken threads which stick up like a bunch of needles (looks like a Bryce canyon). I'm printing with white ABS and some of these "peaks" look brownish, like they burned, however I have pretty low temperature for my filament (220-225C). 2ndby Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice Yeah, I only adjusted mine twice over the past six months, so it hasn't really bothered me much. But when I do need to adjust it, it's quite a chore. One thing that I would like to see are captive nuts in the parts- that way you don't have to do all of the painful "hold the nut on one end and screw on the other" work. Instead, you would just screw in the screw. Maybe someday.... Youby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice Spot on. As Allnei said, the Replikeo kit is meant for 3mm filament. I've been using Replikeo's spool (white 3mm ABS for me) and it's worked really well. That's a real bummer that you've been using the printer for months with the wrong size of filament But when you get 3mm filament for it, post pictures of your first prints! I'd love to see what they look like. Also, it's not alby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
I just received J-head made by SainSmart to replace mine, and it doesn't fit at all. I realized it's because it has this brass part on top, while hotend that came with Replikeo kit has same brass piece inside plastic. Is there an alternative extruded that will hold it?by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteJonny Five Why are the fan power wires cut at the halfway point and then re-soldered back together? What does this accomplish? Why do you think they were cut? That's probably how long wire were that came with the fan, so extended wire was soldered...by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
It's most likely that Mosfet died. Check it like described here.by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteAllnei You are right, original extruder is not for 1.75mm, but for 3mm filament Also cleaning extruder is easy. Aluminium end is just screwed into black plastic barrel without glue. Only thing that will be damaged is capton tape around extruder body Thanks man! How do you clean it after it's disasambled? I removed mine and it has a lot of ABS in it. If I just hit it up and invert would itby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteTheZippyMan Hey guys, I have constructed a holder for a 17mm outer diameter inductive/capazitive probe. It fits in the standard Prusa i3 eMotiontec extruder. You can find it here: I would be happy, if you guys can give me some feedback! Greetings This is fantastic! I never got my servo probe to work. Can you explain more how this works? Does it just replace Z endstop, or there's someby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Can bowden E3D V6 HE be used with direct drive? - 9 years ago
Quote3dkarma The bowden and direct driver version of the E3D v6 hot end are the same for 1.75mm filament. A bowden coupler is supplied with the bowden kit - that's the only difference. The 3mm filament versions differ in the opening at the top of the heat sink / cold end. You can see the differences in the diagrams on this page: . If 3mm is your preference, you can upgrade from the direct driby Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Thanks Blue Ice, that's interesting idea with spaces. I might do that, just need to find correct length. I'm printing with white ABS 1.75mm filament. I'm starting to think that J-Head that came with the kit is not meant for 1.75 filament. I'm attaching pictures of what "doubled up" filament looks like, I really wanted to know if that's normal. Also how do I disassemble this J-head to clean it?by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Can bowden E3D V6 HE be used with direct drive? - 9 years ago
QuoteRalph.Hilton It should be fine with 1.75mm filament - here is one direct drive E3D extruder. Thanks! But that one doesn't say if it's bowden or direct drive version of HE. They actually sell different versions, my understanding Bowden version has large opening for the tube...by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Can bowden E3D V6 HE be used with direct drive? - 9 years ago
Might be a stupid question but if I buy Bowden variant of this HE, can I use it with direct drive extruder? I want to upgrade to bowden at some point, but not just yet...by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice QuoteBratan Can someone recommend me a better hotend? I'm having so many issues with this one such as I spend about 15 minutes trying to get new filament inside the hole, and it clogs and backs out frequently, doesn't feed correct length no matter how many extrusion steps I take, and so on. No a single print is the same... I tried a lot of things for the many months that I had thiby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Prusa i3 Rework Hot-End issue (clogging?) - 9 years ago
My i3 Rework is kit from Replikeo w/ J-head HE. I had it for about 6 months, didn't really print much. For the past few days I'm unable to print anything for longer then 10 minutes it clogs every time. I'm using 1.75mm white ABS filament. So what happens is it prints fine in the beginning and then it stops extruding (hobbed bolt just digging into filament) but it's not moving. When i remove filby Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Can someone recommend me a better hotend? I'm having so many issues with this one such as I spend about 15 minutes trying to get new filament inside the hole, and it clogs and backs out frequently, doesn't feed correct length no matter how many extrusion steps I take, and so on. No a single print is the same... I tried a lot of things for the many months that I had this printer, that I'm now coby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteZippit So it just arrived and someone asked for pictures of the moulded plasic parts. Here they are: Clicky for the Imgur Album Let the build begin! Nice! Yeah extruder is not molded but everything else is... Have fun!by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteSkyJack Someone built the Replikeo kit for 1.75mm filament? Does it works well with the geared extruder and hobbed-bolt? I think most of you use the 3mm version. I'm using 1.75mm ABS filament now, it seems to work ok. I've yet to get a perfect print, but that's another story (same issues with 3mm filament).by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Hmm only other idea I have is maybe one of the motors is not working (i.e. bad wire/connector), so when other one rotates second one breaks it... But that's easy to test...by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Try adjusting stepper driver's pots. Looks like your motors are either getting too much current or not enough...by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
I'm reading on Replikeo's site that they now use injection molded parts (rather than 3D printed). That should improve quality considerably! Zippit if your's are molded post some pics pleasby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: How Prusa i3 Rework different from regular i3? - 9 years ago
Thanks for the info Steve! I nearly finished my Sketchup model of Rework (since I couldn't find existing one), should be useful to design upgrades... Fun process, I imported all STL models of 3D printed parts, re-scaled them to fix error and following assembly instructions did a virtual build Hardest part so far is to get hotend just in the right position...by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
How Prusa i3 Rework different from regular i3? - 9 years ago
Quick question. I've been trying to figure it out what changed in Rework version... I read Introduction page, but I'm unclear if Improvements described on this page are related to i2 or i3? Meaning "Improvements in Prusa i3 compared to Prusa i2" or "Improvements in Prusa i3 Rework compared to Prusa i3"? Also anyone have Sketchup model of the Prusa i3 Rework?by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice Thanks! I'm working on cable management right now, so it should look even better Good luck! Plastic spiral wrap that came with kit is a little too short. I found super long one at Radioshack for $7 it was enough to hide almost all wires and also wrap around threaded rods for slicker look I mostly ok with my current cable situation, but I do want to add some longer wires for enby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Oh, yeah it makes sense now! I actually tightened hubbed bolt as it was too loose. Gotta loosen it back and give it a try... BTW sweet build! Update: Having some success! I basically loosened bold slightly, and most important backed away two tentioner screws that push filament onto the bolt. I think that was it. Oh yeah and I started having wavy lines again (just like in my post on page 24) butby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 9 years ago
Guys I have a question. I'm never able to extrude correct amount of filmanet. For example I tried extruding 100mm and instead it's always around 80-90mm. Changing extrusion value (i.e. M92 E700) seems to have no effect after 700. I can put 750 there and it still will extrude 90mm... Any idea what might be wrong? This happens with ABS/PLA and I tried both 3mm and 1.75mm...by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice I got a roll of PLA already- but I will order those heatsinks too. Thanks for letting me know about that. What type of form should the cork be in? Can I use wine corks, or should I get a sheet of cork? Sheet of cork, about same size as glass. 1/4" thick or less. You ordered 2 sets of heatsinks? There are 10 pieces in each I guess you'll have plenty of spares for future projectsby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants