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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice Hello everyone... I just purchased the aluminum Replikeo kit! So far I have ordered a glass bed plate from McMaster-Carr, PTFE Lubricant from Amazon, Aluminum stepper driver heatsinks from Ebay, and the Intelligent Controller from Banggood. Any other things I should get that are important? Also, what are some cool objects to print (or ones I should use to add on to my printer)? Iby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotealvinhochun Seeing that wavy line is only on one axis, I suggest you check that axis. Hmm interesting, I didn't think it could be mechanical issue... It actually happens on both axes, and seems only after I switched to ABS, but that could be coincidence (I did install Z axes stabilizer system at about the same time...)by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
I'm trying to print with ABS that came from Replikeo with kit, but so far having strange issue. First layer sometimes prints in wavy lines. I searched for similar issue and didn't find anyone mentioning it. I tried various temperatures from 235C to 220C, best seems to be at 225C, but still fist layer is totally busted. I suspect it could be problem with ABS material... Any suggestions? Also whatby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteRepelsteler Hi guys , I received my replikeo today. It was shipped via DHL (3 days from China -> Hong Kong -> Belgium) and all the parts were very well packed. I have just a quick question about the RAMPS board. The power supply connection is a green terminal with 4 pins. Should the other end of the terminal be included in the package or is this something missing in my box? If not clby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteAbuMaia Actually it's a failsafe design. If the nuts were as secure as you think they should be, when the hotend hits the bed, it'll keep getting pulled into the bed, damaging the printer. That the nuts pop out when the hotend hits the bed keeps too much pressure from being applied to the bed, and prevents damage. Don't glue the nuts in! Thanks I was wrong about it, now I see it makes senseby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotealvinhochun If your hotend pushes into the bed, then that's something you really should worry about instead, because it can damage the hotend or the print surface, or both. In my opinion, it's good that the nuts actually come off, since it can reduce the chance of the hotend pushing into the print surface too hard and damaging them. It happens occasionally, and I'm not the only person whoby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Yes I mean X-motor mount and idler. They are not upside down, but sometimes hotend pushes on the bed, and nuts coming off. This happened few times already so they are not holding strongly. I'll try superglue, but this is quite obviously a flaw in the design... I've been thinking on improving it, but so far got nothing. Putting nuts inside in the slot would solve falling out issue, but it would beby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Thanks I'll give it a go with superglue! Guys I has another issue with printer, which I kind of expected to happen since day 1. Those little m5 nuts that basically hold whole X assembly moving on the z axes along M5 threaded rods, are finally falling off. There's not much to hold them other than plastic fitting which get's loose with time. Is there a better design for this that anyone know of?by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg I'm beginning to thing that the RAMPS platform is pretty fragile. My Heat Bed will no longer sustain a temp, even a low temp like 60. It heats to a point then just cuts out. I have a relay I can use and bought just for this purpose but it's triggered by 5v and the MOSFET is 12v so I need to do a little research how to hook it up... :/ Well I fixed it. Problem was that I must'by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Well this sucks. I got new MOSFETs desoldered bad one, replace with new one, checked everything seemed to be ok,no shorts. Assembled it back and HotEnd would not heat up, LED would not light up. So I took board off, unplugged everything but thermistor sensors and heaters, tried it again, now HE mosfet is always on, Arduino has no control over it I guess I need to get a new RAMPs boardby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg Hey Bratan, sorry to hear that, that sucks. I wish I could help. I've replaced my Mega/RAMPS once already myself. Mike, that z-endstop holder is a really poor design, which is only compounded by the poor design of the endstop itself. The only suggestion I have is to figure out a way to rig it up to work for a while (like I did) then as soon as you can print yourself one of thby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Help! Something just burned out on my RAMPS board (I think). I was calibrating bed, when fan went silent and PSU light went off. I thought PSU burned out, but when I disconnected it from RAMPS it was working and I'm getting 12V on all outputs. As soon as I plug it in, power LED goes out. I took everything apart, and tried plugging just RAMPS board into PSU (Arduino is physically disconnected fby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteAllnei It is not stupid, if you heat HB (15-20min) in same time as HE (1-5min) then filament in HE will be destroyed due to high temperature for long time without extruding. For your problem with shift, try to to send more power to motors. I guess it makes sense, but printing process usually takes much longer than HB heating. Quoteunderthetire I agree with more power, also make sure yourby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteAllnei QuoteBratan Guys two more question. First, I noticed when I printed my big gear, that every level shifts slightly to the right (in X direction). What could be causing this? Second, I've been having this annoying issue with Repetier since day 1. When I'm doing second print, it will stop heating up HotEnd. It says it's own, and I think even LED light is on but Hotend is cooling downby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Guys two more question. First, I noticed when I printed my big gear, that every level shifts slightly to the right (in X direction). What could be causing this? Second, I've been having this annoying issue with Repetier since day 1. When I'm doing second print, it will stop heating up HotEnd. It says it's own, and I think even LED light is on but Hotend is cooling down. If I reset the board aby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteAllnei It was me, who talked about auto bed leveling. What you linked is mount for vanila i3, not Rework that we have. Use this mount and hot glue servo in it. I am not home, so I can´t post you picture of mine. Also you must use it with Marlin FW, because Repetier don´t have good auto bed leveling code. Thanks Allnei! It it sill possible to attach fan duct with this mount? It's not showby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quoteflyrobot Hi Bratan, I was thinking the same case about the fan to blow electronic board. If i put the fan into one of mosfet terminal, I am affraid it will make more heating on mosfet. it will be more safe if i get the source direct from power supply, but i think if I make the fan on power supply position to get near face-to-face with electronic board might be better. this solution will safby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
So I got myself 80mm fan and printed bracket to attach it to RAMPs board. Now I'm trying to figure where to connect it. Has anyone connected more than one FAN to same connection (i.e. D9)? I want to connect both RAMPS and HotEnd fan to same port. I also printed autocalibration parts and got me a servo, hopefully I'll get it working with Repetier host. QuoteAllnei One of my new prints That's impby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
I've been thinking about auto-leveling but I worry about adding extra weight to the hotend assembly. This extra mass would create additional inertia during head movements. Has anyone experienced any issues after adding auto-leveling parts? Also a question about mounting PSU. Did anyone mount PSU that came with Replikeo kit to the frame? If so would you mind sharing how you did it?by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotesyl20077 Thanks to Bratan for the spool adaped to iron i3 ! Hehe no problem! Did you print it out of PLA? BTW your printer looks really neat! I found cable organizer that came with Replikeo kit is too short, but Radioshack sells really long one for just $7! Did you have enough wire on your X endstop? Mine is a bit too short and sometimes catches on the heatbed when it moves I think I'lby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
I modified MarkBenson's spool holder to work with 3mm Iron/Steel frame sold by Replikeo.by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteRayton Thanks. Has the kit in general worked out well for you? Yes, I had some issues, but considering price I'd say it's worth it. I had bad connectors on 3 stepper motors, bad header on one of the thermistors, bad connection on the hotend, and as almost everyone else here mentioned carbon fiber sheet for the heatbed is garbage, you'll need to get a piece of glass if you want bed to be evenby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Rayton iron is fine. I had same concernes, but it's very sturdy.by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg For lubrication: I've been using a silicone lube or Duralube. The silicone is more of a penetrating-type lube, whereas the Duralube is more of a PTFE-type lube. I'm not sure where you're talking about on the spool holder but there was a light layer printed adjacent to the bearing, creating a barrier between the bearing and where the shaft runs. I just cut it away. I alsoby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg Any idea of what kind of lubricant to use on the rails by the way? I use Lithium White Grease because a lot of people recommended it for 3D printer. But it turns nasty black after some time time tho, there must be something better... Was meaning to ask about this spool holder. Just out of curiosity did yours print with "filled plane" in the 2 spaces where it was supposed to be eby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg I've been spraying the glass with a light coat of Aquanet Super Extra Hold @ 60°C and I have had great adhesion. I'll do the extrusion calibration tonight when I get home, thanks for the tip! The last one graduates High School tonight... Do you wipe glass or respray after each print? What about ABS, would harispray work for it too?by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg I was wondering if that's where you measure it. I tried 100mm and I got a bird's nest! lol LOL, yeah I can imagine The way I did it is measured 100mm before extruder and marked with marker. Then extruded 30mm at 50mm/s and measured distance from mark to the extruder. Ideally it should be 20mm (100-30) but best I could get was 22mm, which is fine. Layers are a little thick butby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteAllnei I have it soldered too. But this way you can´t control it, if you plug it in D9, then you can start/stop fan from arduino Yes! It's noisy as hell and vibrates like crazy... I thinking of designing a mount for larger fan (80mm or bigger) which should be much quieter...by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Quotegadget_greg @Bratan yes, that is very strange! When I set PronterFace to extrude, say 5mm, I get a superfine filament that curls all around and must be more like 20mm. It's really weird. It's measuring intake filament not outtake If you mark 5mm of filament (i.e. from top of the extruder) and extrude 5mm, filament should move exactly 5mm (i.e. your market will be at the level with top oby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
Ok guys, I'm a bit puzzled by something. Unless I send "M92 E710" command manually to printer (if it was reset or lost power) extruder will not extrude enough material to print anything useful. With this "magic" command everything works great. I'm a bit confused because I already set Extruder steps to 710 in Firmware. It seems to ignore it completely, or maybe this command does something else? Aby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants