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Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quoteesponda Hi, anyone else ordered the kit this month? I ordered mine on July 14, received my tracking number on July 19, but still showing traveling (from China to China !). And replikeo is not answering my e-mails u.u Did u order with DHL shipping? On mine tracking never really updated but I still got package about a week later.

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAllnei What spool holder are you printing? I was thinking about this one or this style I'm making this one. Already printed two spool mounts, they came out great! Now printing plate mounts and having worst luck with it. I mentioned earlier that one of the extruder idler's "ears" got broken off, well sometimes filament slides off to the right and get's stuck so I had to restart twice, I'm

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAllnei What acceleration did you set? IMHO too fast movement, or too slow extrusion I used all default settings for speed. It has to be extrusion. I just finished printing 50mm tower (it took over an hour) but it came out perfect! I can see that it's laying a slightly thicker lines than before, but they are so much more sturdier... I'll probably reduce extruder steps slightly. Printing Spo

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAllnei Don´t use only one screw, because pressure on the filament is bad. Also don´t tighten iddler screws too much, because they will push motor on other side (they can go through). Bratan if you ask about tightening extruder screws (4 screws that hold X carriage and extruder) they must be tight, if not, your prints will not be good. Thanks! Yeah I was talking about idler. I added second sc

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAllnei Bratan, it looks like that your layers are too thick. Print with 0.3 first layer and 0.2 other layers. Also make sure, that you have set correct nozzle diameter in Slic3r Thanks Alllnei! I'll give it a try! I do have nozzle diameter set to 0.4mm in the Slic3r. I found a guide online on calibrating i3, and first step was to measure extrusion lengh and adjust accordingly. I extruded 30

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Thanks Greg! I tried changing just infill density, and it went weird on me. It's like Slic3r randomized all parameters! Started to print with different patterns, made horrible walls, etc.. There's a serious bug in either Slic3r or Repetier (or combination of). I'm going to try different software...

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I've been reading several guides on calibrating Slic3r settings, and they all very different. I got best result with mostly default settings so far, sides resolution is amazing, no slanting or sagging anywhere, but big issues with infill. There's just too much horizontal space between fills, especially between walls and inside pattern. Bottom layer looks amazing, I think all layers on it get fus

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Thanks Greg, this is awesome stuff! Question to all that use this printer with Slicer. Can you share your Slicer settings?

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegadget_greg I've already printed and am using a better z-endstop mounting system and I'm considering a y-endstop mount that is more versatile and out of the way of the wires on the heatbed. Can you please share?

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteMcCringleberry Thanks for everyone's help so far. I've gotten a lot done in the limited time I've had lately. Here's a probably stupid question that hopefully someone could answer if you have fre time: - Before I installed the y-axis belt, the bed his the endstop just fine. Now that I've got the belt on, the zip tied pars on the top of the belt get caught on the motor or the y-idler befo

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I just wanted to post a correction/update to my last post. It seems that I would be missing 20mm of Y travel regardless which way I install Y motor, as at Y=0 it's pretty much at the end of timing belt anyway. I'm not sure how it's even possible to build Y axes and still have full 200mm travel distance. I can be achieved with slightly longer threaded rods and longer timing belt. For now I modifie

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Keep in mind that having Y motor in the rear might limit your Y range. In RepRap instructions they mention distance of 240mm from frame to front, I think that's for motor and endstop being in front. You might have to move it back more if you decide to keep motor in the back. In fact I'm going to give a try, as on mine I'm missing about 60 mm of movement. Replikeo kit comes with only one thermisto

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

PLA reel arrived today and after some struggling I removed ABS and replaced it with PLA. I took off carbon fiber sheet and used hairspray on the bare glass (also turned hotplate 90 degrees CCW for better cable management). I was finally able to do a successful print!!! .5mm think wall cube came out perfect, except for the oozing blob that got stuck to nozzle before it started to print. I'm so h

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I'll try hairspray method tonight. I just noticed on Tech2C's video his HB is oriented differently from mine (about 90 degree turn). Meaning all wires are on the side instead of back. I think it's better way cause my wires keep getting caught in rear endstop. I just checked Reprap's instructions again, then they don't have a single picture that shows HB orientation Also I think I found issue wit

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

It's installed with heating traces up. Maybe it wrong way, but it made sense to me at the time :-) Speaking of hotbed, does anyone have carbon fiber sheet on top of glass? Mine is, but so far abs doesn't stick to it well. I had bed temp at 110c.

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

DHL shipping is well worth it! I got my printer kit in 2 weeks after ordering it! Now good luck with assembling it! BTW Update on my story. I decided to try and repair hotend, and it was a success! As i suspected it was (again) bad connection as I was getting infinite resistance when probing with DMM. I unwrapped kapton tape and then tested continuity with DMM and found that one lead going int

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegadget_greg My Home is diagonally across from where yours is. My X-axis motor is reversed from what's pictured here (body facing 'back'). I can't see your Y-motor. Endstops are all in the same places. All motor wires are Green-down (closest to the power plug). All endstops are plugged into MIN. Z_DIR false #define INVERT_E0_DIR true #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIRMy config: #defi

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteTech2C Brantan, that photo I found on google images as it had the connector zoomed. I didn't edit it. Disregard the missing row of pins, just look at each set of pins from left to right as normal. The coordinate system is relative to the print surface viewed from above. From left to right is 0 to 200. Bottom to top is 0 to 200. Cool got it! So since my Y endstop is in the back, it will beco

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Tech2C, thanks for awesome explanation! Two questions. In your picture you highlighted unconnected pins, this got me confused. Are you saying that if you solder another row of pins there, looking from left, first top pins are X-MIN, then Middle land Bottom pins X-MAX? There's Y-axis 0 located? Is it all the way in the back of the printer or front (I'm guessing back). So from what I understand pr

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Thanks! HE not heating up, no errors, temp 20c and cold to touch. Should I try connecting it to HB header to test, our maybe directly to power supply

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAllnei Guys, don´t know why you don´t want use another FW, but I had many problems with endstops, axis movement etc. with Marlin. When i switched to Repetier 99% problems were gone. Repetier is imho more user friendly with their web config tool and they have nice host (Repetier Host) Thanks for the info! I just installed it, it's not super easy to configure tho Do you mind sharing your conf

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Yes I'm using Pronterface (Printrun). I use it to turn on HE, but nothing happens... I'm sure I'll figure it out tho Another question. Does rework build uses endstops for MAX or MIN? I'm having trouble with them. They seem to be either completely ignored (server tries to move even tho endstop is engaged) or when endstop is hit, I cannot move AWAY from it, but can still move toward... What are c

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegadget_greg I just realized that the configuration.h file that I uploaded is configured for a Full Graphics LCD Controller. You'll need to comment out this line: #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Sorry about that! My config has changed a little since then too... Yea no problem, I realized that when I saw size of the compiled file (over 120K vs. 56K usual) so I figured

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I need another advise. My hotend is not heating up at all. Firs of all if I enable temp sensor (#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1) I get error QuotePrinter stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) I have extruder's hotend connected to D10 terminals, but I don't which which polarity since both wires are the same. Does polarity of hotend

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

In my latest pic I have y motor in the back. Sorry I have no idea if switching motor well resolve mirroring, I didn't print anything yet on mine :-)

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegadget_greg That sucks Bratan. I'm beginning to think I need to have spare parts around like a motor, an endstop, extra bearings, etc. My motor is in the back. I think I need to reverse it. :/ I FIXED MY MOTORS! Wow it was just bad crimp job believe it or not. I cut off both connectors and crimped them myself (fortunately I had some pins and 4-pin headers left). Now both motors spinn

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I think I figured out my issue. I have 2 bad motors One from Y axis is definitely dead, I took it out and connected separately, it won't move at any current, just buzz and tries to turn. Tried it in different ports (i.e. extruder, X axes, etc.) Second motor (from Z axes) is a little more weird, it turns but in opposite direction every time (i.e. left, then right, then left, etc.). Adjusting vol

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Awesome video tutorials for assembling the Prusa i3 - 10 years ago

Oh man, I had those videos in my playlist, but when I got my Prusa i3 kit, channel was gone, I was so upset. Wish I've seen this thread 2 weeks ago Now I managed to almost finish my build following RepRap's instructions...

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: Prusa i3 Rework Parts: What am I missing? - 10 years ago

Something I came across when building my Rework. 14mm m3 screws are too long to attach stepper motors to printed motor mounts! 12mm are perfect size. In fact a lot of 14mm m3 screws can be replaced by 12mm screws with better results (for example attaching z mounts to vertical metal plate). I also assembled printer with Y motor in front following instructions, but I don't see why it can't be in th

by Bratan - Reprappers

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Thanks Greg! I'll give it a try tonight. This morning I quickly connected Y motor to X socket and it still didn't move. So I'm thinking it's either belt too tight (I'll try it without belt) or,motor is dead. Will check voltage too. Btw I had Y motor just like on your picture, but then I switched it to another side. There are no depressions for nuts on other side of Y mount but I don't think it ma

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants