I figured it out. Holes needed to be slightly enlarged and then I just used hammer to get rods in thereby Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Please help! Got Marlin fw uploaded (modified config.h as specified on Replikeo site). Printrun installed, but nothing works right Z-axis motors sometimes turn in same direction, sometimes in OPPOSITE! Y-axis motor completely stuck, I can here it's trying to engage but not moving an inch (if I power off I can move Y-axis by hand freely). X-axis is the only one that appears to be working, but itby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAllnei Probably you will need reverse it in FW and set homing towards max endstop (or min, I don´t know where is home point on Prusa i3 ) Good point, didn't realize motor will be in reverse. I just moved it to another side, now all should be good. Guys, completely noob question. I assembled everything, what's next? I'm not new to Arduino, built my own boards, but what's the quickest way toby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAllnei I use clips, that come with kit for secure cork in place. You can´t find good way how to organize wires, because your Y axis assemble is inverted. You should have motor on other side (It is problem of manual on Reprap wiki, my Y assembly is inverted too ). It can be problem, if firmware is not configured right, and your prints can be printed mirrored, best way how to check it is printby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Allnei, how is your cork attached to the HB? I actually found springs provided with Replikeo kit to be very useful in mounting HB. Can someone post picture of how they organized wires? I have no idea what's the best path for themby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been doing more research on HB. As everyone probably knows PLA/ABS doesn't adhere well to glass so there's a kapton tape or hair spray applied to remedy this. Hair spray sounds just nasty to me, I imagine all the dirt getting trapped, etc. There's also a PET film method, I wonder if anyone tried it? They sell 4 pieces on ebay for $14. I'm going to try it. Here's description of this method. Sby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegadget_greg I'm going to buy a piece of glass to print on in a few minutes, just to alleviate the slight bow in the heat bed. Is regular glass ok? I can get tempered glass or wood-stove glass (rated to 1400 degrees F) if needed. What thickness glass? Once I have the glass on the bed I'll rig up something for the Z-endstop. I'll also remove the springs. From what I understand regular glaby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Greg and Alnei! I happen to have a huge piece of 6mm cork, it will work beautifully! I'm just not sure what to do about thermistor, as it's going to be in between heated bed and cork, and will lift HB a little in one spot... I looked up wire diameter, 2.5mm is around 10 AWG.by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm ready to start on heated bed and electronics and have couple of questions. 1. Reprap instructions mention high temperature silicone for thermistor. It didn't come with replikeo kit, do I really need it? Also I only got single thermistor, did everyone get 2? 2. As for mounting heated bed someone mentioned using cork. Cork washers or big square piece of cork to go between metal plate and PCBby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegadget_greg I noticed on one set of build instructions that your y-axis smooth rods can be strapped down with zip ties. Just under the ends of the rods there's a little hole for a zip tie. Yeah, but I was talking about X-axes Anyway just finished hardware build, so tired Thanks for everyone's help! Hot head will be an issue as it seems to be different from "official" version. also myby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAllnei QuoteBratan Second problem is according to official Rework built manual, Z axes rods must go thru top Z mounts. Holes in those mounts are too small however, I cannot get rods thru Hammer (or 8mm drill, but i like hammer ) Hammer is a bad bad idea I cracked plastic support a little, it was really tight. Used drill (5/16" since I don't have 8mm) and then a little hammer on secondby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
I also ordered iron one. Arrived 2 weeks later (I'm in NY, USA) via DHL. No damage, was packed very nicely. Looks like it has everything. Now I'm pulling remaining hair trying too assemble it, but it's not really their fault, rather pretty poor official instructionsby Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Thanks so much for the info! I guess I have to cut those screws by about 2 mm. Oh and x axis rods do slide out Maybe I need epoxy to prevent them from sliding out..by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
My kit finally arrive, only took 2 weeks! No damage, it was nicely packed in styrofoam. I encountered 3 issues so far. First one, 14mm M3 screws are too long to mount motors. Nobody encountered this issue? Second problem is according to official Rework built manual, Z axes rods must go thru top Z mounts. Holes in those mounts are too small however, I cannot get rods thru And finally smooth rodby Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm trying to assemble Rework version (got it at Replikeo). In Connecting X and Z axes part, on step 3 it says "Insert two smooth Ø8x320 mm carefully on both Z Axis Top and slide them by half". Rods will not fit thro the opening no matter how hard I try (without cracking Z Axis tops). Is it wrong instructions or I need to enlarge holes with dril? Any other advise?by Bratan - General Mendel Topics
Just an update, Replikeo responded on the same day I asked them about my order status (5/22). Today I got e-mail that it was sent and a tracking number!by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants
Guys, quick question about Replikeo. After you ordered your kit did they send you confirmation e-mail or anything? I ordered mine yesterday and didn't hear anything back, also under my account order history looks empty.by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants