QuoteMatt,Wheatley ABS Help Has anybody managed to print ABS with their cherry pi. I want to print the new all metal hot end mount and appear to be having issues with layers being a little bitty. I was wondering if people had used ABS and if so what there print settings might be. I have tried temp at 240, bed 110 with the fan off but the layers don't appear very even. Thanks Matt Matt Whereby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quoteiira I think they're all essentially very similar. The major difference between the original Mini Kossel and the others is the use of 1515 extrusions, rather 2020. The Cherry Pi (and I think the Griffin too) use magnetic rod ends, rather than ball joints. I've never used magnetic joints, but I like how simple Traxxas rod ends are. That said, you can find vertexes for a 2020 Kossel on Thingiby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Robert the motherboard as you call it has marking's on it for the endstop positions they all need to be in the sockets marked up as X- Y- and Z- make sure they are in the correct socket for the endstop in question ie your Z endstop needs to be in the Z- socket and so on. Elwoods idea of putting a shim under the X axis carriage so it contacts the Limit switch is not a bad one your other optiby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quoteed328 Yeah that's what I meant. I guess my wording was not very clear. try I3 Alloy frameby dougal1957 - Reprappers
It's on its way!!by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO Does this have any bearing on the matter? I notice there are no figures for Z. No that is only for when you have auto bed levelling probe but looking at you previous it suggests that you have your z and Y endstops transposed ie Z is in the Y socket and Y is where the Z should be but I will put the sense back to how I think it should be for you wait 1by dougal1957 - Reprappers
activate the Y switch and see if it will move in that direction now also check the M119 command with the switch open and then Closed lets make sure the switch is ok yeah Right I will be gone for a bit need to get Dinner be back in about 30 mins or so OK.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
its on its way?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
ok ill invert the X for you and then the Y endstop looks like it may need to be inverted stand byby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO Quotedougal1957 QuoteOO DURKE OO ok I did that and entered m119 what am I looking for here? Z is now all the way down on the endstop X and Y are not. the results should be something like X_min:H x_min:L y_min:L or such like Is your Z now close to bed? I am seeing X_min:L y_min:H z_min:L seem correct? And I am able to manually get it close to the bed with the up down butby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO ok I did that and entered m119 what am I looking for here? Z is now all the way down on the endstop X and Y are not. the results should be something like X_min:H x_min:L y_min:L or such like Is your Z now close to bed?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
tick on the commands button and try it again I Can't think exactly the format now I can check But the printer won't do anything the M119 just asks the firmware for the state of the endstops ie activated or not and then reports it back.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO yes it is closed down entirely. It was just a thought but by the sounds from the Emails we are getting closer now. Dougby dougal1957 - Reprappers
This might sound daft but you have closed the Arduino IDE down haven't you that would clash with the host?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO ok im setup with that baudrate. How do I home each one in turn? I can click the house but you said to do each one in turn then in the second step hit the house for each one. Also the M119 command did not work at all. I didnt see anything happen to the printer or inside of repetier. there are 4 house icon 3 have the letters for the axis in them the one without is home all.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO my com 7 is set to 9600 bits right now and if I set repetier to 9600 it is holding connection. Should I adjust my com 7 settings in the device manager and try upping it to 250000? my com7 doesnt have a 250000 setting though in device manager. I've sent you a Config.h file that has it set to 115200 so try that, set your port to that and in the host as wellby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Actually mine is exactly the same as yours apart from the Com port and baudrate I'll do you another Config.h to drop the speed to 115200 give me a min or so.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
try different reset on connect in fact I'll just go check what mine is set to also check in device manager that the port is definitely com7?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
make sure the Baudrate in Rep host is set to 250000by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Does the display come up when it boots it should say that it is Repetier v0.92 or such like you should be able to connect to it with Repetier host and check the EEPROM Settings and you should be able to home each axis one at a time to see what happens. Dougby dougal1957 - Reprappers
right I have sent you another one according to the RepRap Wiki the MKS Base is a Ramps/Mega combined so hopefully this one will work for youby dougal1957 - Reprappers
it doesn't matterby dougal1957 - Reprappers
E-Mail on its Way I've modified the Pins.h to take out the beeper for now?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO should I try uploading the "Repetier.cbp " instead of the ino file and see if that makes a difference? no it wont think we mave the wrong display type in th one I did for you it may be a case of trying a different one if you go to and upload the Configuration.h file to it you will be able to scroll through the config and I think it is on the last page you can select a diffeby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO Doug I uploaded your firmware but now my Speaker on my LCD screen is going off constantly! It is like a fire alarm. I had to turn off the power entirely to kill it. What is wrong? It may be the wrong display definition post a pic of the display and we can try and sort that bit as well? You can try the printer without it for testing purposes mind just unplug it?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteOO DURKE OO correction Z605s board That apparently is a megatronics V2 clone but in the Arduino it is a mega2560by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quotedowninit No u can still get some cheap stuff thats compleat garbage. Biggest problem ive had with really cheap filament is it not holding tolerence. It has thick spots and thin spots wich creates all kinda problems. The hatchbox is not extramly cheap but it is very high qulity for the price. Totally agree here there is some expensive stuff that I wouldn't give time to same can also be saidby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quotesungod3k I ordered parts for 1000mm and plan on using 2020. I think with some reinforcements on the brackets and maybe some cross bracing with cheap L stock that will work fine. However 2040 is not that much more expensive my European supplier just didn't have 2040. I got mine from Motedis in Germany for 9 euros a meterby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
OK Tom I have just started using ESUN Filament from ESUN Filament the price does vary quite a lot depending on Exchange rates but it is still the Best value I have found. It takes a little tweeking to get it just right but it is worth it and it is regarded by lots of people to be good quality and consistant. ABS for some reason seems cheaper than PLA but even so it is still only £12.5 per KG (tby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quotecraftygeek I'm very close to the point of ordering an Ooznest Prusa i3 & i'm looking at the array of filament available to buy. The kit comes with 1kg of ABS & I will probably order another roll in a different colour at the same time to be used for more mechanical type pieces. But, I also want to get some PLA for more display type models etc. I'm finding the vast choice of PLA a taby dougal1957 - Reprappers