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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 11 years ago
QuoteGannicus QuoteZavashier QuotelouspinusoCan you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks. Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintainby dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Speed - 11 years ago
Quotemk3a Quotedougal1957 You say you have an Airtripper what motor is on that and which drive gear this is what I believe is critical in getting this to work. see Airtrippers V3 Extruder Sounds like you need high torque motors for these to work effectively. I will watch this thread carefully to see how you get on as I am considering Airtripper's for my in progress 4 head printer. Doug Theby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Speed - 11 years ago
Quotemk3a I've never been able to print faster than ~20mm/s. I have calibrated my extruder steps in the Marlin firmware. My slicer settings have an extrusion multipler of 1. I don't see how it could be clogged. It will print; it just won't print quickly. I suspect a problem with the bowden extruder, not the hot end. Maybe I will disassemble the hot end just to have a look and make sure. You sby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: How to install A new slicer? - 11 years ago
QuoteJasperCocquyt Hello everyone, I have the velleman K8200 and the repetier host for it but i don't want to slice with slic3r but with the CuraEngine. the only problem is that i can't find a way to add a new slic3r program? can anyone help me? i've already downloaded the CuraEnige ZIP file from the site. THANKS A LOT! Install Repetier host 1.0.6 from and let it instal cura for you it will tby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed Heater Options - 11 years ago
Quotetwicx So by the sounds of it, I'm going to need something between the Rumba, the power supply and the heater(s). This makes it tricky. The first problem is the mounting points. Because of the design of how the bed is mounted to the z axis gantry, the mounting points for anything is going to be a tricky issue. My printer (Felix 1.5 Rev.E) uses 3 mounting points for the Heated bed. One is inby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 11 years ago
Quotemikez104 Ok, so I've been thinking it sounds like a short and the power supply is going into self preservation mode and cutting the output. So I start probing around with the ohm meter and find that after disconnecting every wire and pulling all the drivers off the board, the lower power connector is reading a short across the input. So I start inspecting the board looking for a solderby dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Repetier on Prusa Mendel Crashes any time while working Great. - 11 years ago
Quoteveteran54 My RepRap is making now good prints after some issues were corrected. This forum has been very helpful for me. However, anytime, on the first printing or after one or two printings. Repertier crashes and I lost my work and waste some PLA. The message on my computer is that "repetier stopped working and windows is trying to identifiy the problem" Windows never find anything and theby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: E3D v6 Mount for Greg's Extruder - 11 years ago
Quotequillford Quotedougal1957 Quotequillford Quotedougal1957 Quotequillford QuoteAquaticsLive What does you printer look like? Maybe a quick picture would help. I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metalby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: E3D v6 Mount for Greg's Extruder - 11 years ago
Quotequillford Quotedougal1957 Quotequillford QuoteAquaticsLive What does you printer look like? Maybe a quick picture would help. I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nice lip on it, soby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: RADDS RepRap Arduino-Due Driver Shield (32bit) - 11 years ago
Quoterdm128 Angelo, Thanks for your help in getting the RADDS board. It is working extremely well on BobC's Marlin spin. This thing makes my delta fly! I've built several custom 3DR's. The one with the RADDS board uses a 300mm Heat bed w/ DRV8825 stepper drivers. I have tried multiple times to get repetier 0.92 running on the board with no luck. It compiles and installs perfectly. It acby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: E3D v6 Mount for Greg's Extruder - 11 years ago
Quotequillford QuoteAquaticsLive What does you printer look like? Maybe a quick picture would help. I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nice lip on it, so I made a rather simplemount forby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: PLA warping? - 11 years ago
Quotemist42nz Walter, is that tape you're referring to also known as "masking tape"? It is in the UKby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 11 years ago
QuoteGannicus So after switching to the good filament, I've noticed a marked improvement already. I have two quick questions. 1) Why is the bottom of all my prints printing like Ramen Noodles. Instead of smooth 100% glass like surfaces? You can see this example in the first two pics. 2) How can improve the sag in overhangs? In the SAG pic, that is just the 20mm hollow calibration cube from Thiby dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: hollow lock set screws for jhead - 11 years ago
Quotedave3d Thanks Ohmarinus. A european source at last. They are relatively expensive though. 1.49 euros for one, compared with $11.56 for 25 with McMaster-Carr. I will order a few. Yeah not the cheapest for everything and there is VAT at %21 to add as well as postage so bare that in mind but they are quick.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: hollow lock set screws for jhead - 11 years ago
QuoteOhmarinus I used to buy them here: Good luck I have dealt with Reprapworld in the past and can vouch for them and they are very quick (They are in Holland) Dougby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Home built printer with Y axis problems - 11 years ago
[email protected] Yes, I've checked the wiring, everything is OK. Here's the link to a short video, which was made after another setting in Marlin, namely the steps/mm. but this is the best I can bring out of this axis and it's making me mad Are you using 2 motors on the Y axis if so how are the motors wired (Series or Parallel) ?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Z lead screw bottom support for new build - 11 years ago
Quoteanvoice Thanks, that seems very usable. As far as the piece of metal goes, wouldn't it impede rotation if the metal can't rotate with the screw? That's why I thought about something like a piece of metal actually attached to the center portion of a bearing, so that it could spin, but I doubt I could make something like that unless premade ones are sold. You could put that pieces of metal oby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Z lead screw bottom support for new build - 11 years ago
Quoteanvoice Hi, I'm designing a new printer, and trying to figure out how to mount my z axis. Using a motor on top and an 8mm lead screw secured with an 8mm coupler, so the bottom end will be dangling down. I do plan to install a bearing mount, but I'm wondering if there's a need to actually support the screw from the bottom, since all that's holding it in place is that coupler grub screw? If sby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Pronterface seems to react wrongly to manual extrusion command? - 11 years ago
Quotehomecore Hey Sungod3k, There is nothing wrong with the frame. Let me put it this way: I can leave the pronterface field on the default 5mm and press the 'extrude button' 4 times. The result = 20mm I could also fill in 20mm and press the button once. The result seems to be only 5mm ==> the results are not the same, it seems like pronterface remembers the first value used and ignores thby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: I'm Thinking Of Building My Own Large Scale 3D Printer, And I'm Looking For Some Advice On Part Choices, And Advice On Overstraining Familier Parts From Smaller Printers - 11 years ago
You could try something like Supported Rail or Slider for extrusion or even Rails on Extrusion with Wheels There are lots of good stuff out there it is just what you are willing to pay? as for nice light weight multi extruder hot ends you can't go far wrong with The Kraken This does need to be Bowden fed of course and can have nozzles of upto 0.8 mm as standard (They do a spares selection rangby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Z axis homes but doesn't move otherwise - 11 years ago
QuoteShadowE M119 command returns this: >>M119 SENDING:M119 x_min:L y_min:L z_min:H z_max:H To invert the max endstop do I have to change it in configuration.h? Which lines should i bee looking at? Which Firmware are you using I'll assume for now it is MARLIN in which case you need to look for something like in the attached snippet.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Z axis homes but doesn't move otherwise - 11 years ago
QuoteShadowE I've been going mad trying to figure out why it is exhibiting this behaviour. The z axis homes but when I try to get it to move using the arrows around the target in Pronterface it doesn't move at all. Sometimes it gives a bit of a jerk but doesn't actually move. I have a Prusa Mendel i2 and I'm using RAMPS 1.4 with stepstick drivers. I'm using Slic3r and Pronterface to operate thby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: How do I pick a pin? - 11 years ago
Yep think I would use D11 (the left most Servo connection). QuoteAndrew Smith If you look at the Mega, then you'll see that pins 2 through 13 are marked PWM. Checking the RAMPS pinout, 8,9 and 10 are used for the mosfets on the RAMPS, 2 and 3 are used by the X endstops though most printers don't use X max, so pin 2 may be free on your machine. Also, 44,45 and 46 are also PWM capable, which isn'by dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: 12864 Smart LCD with RAMPS 1.4 Strange behavior. 
- 11 years ago
This is a pic to show where it is Most ramps as far as I know come without it installed and it is usually taped to it somewhere. If it isn't there then it should be a 1N4004 See Also Ramps1.4 Wiki page QuoteAuriuX Quotedougal1957 Have you installed the Diode (D1) underneath the X and Y axis Driver boards (It is half under each of them)? It is this that allows a 5V feed to the Mega when theby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: 12864 Smart LCD with RAMPS 1.4 Strange behavior. - 11 years ago
Have you installed the Diode (D1) underneath the X and Y axis Driver boards (It is half under each of them)? It is this that allows a 5V feed to the Mega when the USB Is disconnected. QuoteAuriuX End stops connected corectly. its a new printer build, didint print anything yet. all the axis goes home fine. If the ramps would not make a proper contact, then i think the screen wouldnt show anythinby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: How do you measure over 10A? - 11 years ago
QuoteUkIan All the multimeters I can find are limited to 10amps. Is there something I'm missing? I'd like to see what draw is happening on my heated bed, but that's going to be 10-20 amps. Thanks Easiest way is to use a clamp type meter such as Trend AC/DC Clamp meter HTH Dougby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 11 years ago
Quoteczmorris QuoteWpflum Ok, this is becoming annoying, I'm using repetier host to see if the issues I'm having might be related to cura and I had the same X carriage skip I've been having whenever I try to do a large area print. I had thought originally it was because I didn't have the belt tight enough but after I took it apart again and worked on it a bit I was able to get is, what I think,by dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: I'm Thinking Of Building My Own Large Scale 3D Printer, And I'm Looking For Some Advice On Part Choices, And Advice On Overstraining Familier Parts From Smaller Printers - 11 years ago
The purpose of D1 is to route the 5V rail from the ramps (The Ramps has a 5V regulated supply on board else how would it not blow all its components as soon as you connect 12V to it? ) to the Mega thereby allowing it to run standalone without needing the USB to be connected Quotecozmicray Yes I have the Arduino Mega 2560... I can see that the unit is powered by the USB fine, but if I connect theby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay - 11 years ago
QuoteGannicus Has anyone here bought the new E3d v6 hot end? Waiting to get my kit, ordered it with the graphical LCD, and think the E3D hot end looks to be the cats ass, could cure up a lot of the issues I've read in here. I have an E3D V6 (tho not on a folger but a very similar I3 printer) and can safely say that they are the Dogs Danglies if you get what I mean they are superb so much so I hby dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: I'm Thinking Of Building My Own Large Scale 3D Printer, And I'm Looking For Some Advice On Part Choices, And Advice On Overstraining Familier Parts From Smaller Printers - 11 years ago
You can get a crimp tool from here Crimp tool and you can get the connectors from Ebay they are called DUPONT Connectors and they come in a variety of sizes you will need some 2 way and 4 way at the very least for your motor and thermistor and endstop leads (if you are using electronic endstops rather than micro switches then you will also need 3 way ones) As for D1 see the board layout I haveby dougal1957 - Reprappers