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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Best Software for Prusa i3? - 11 years ago
QuoteVirtuelx Hi, I am currently using Pronterface for my Prusa i3, but I am not quite happy with it. There are several issues with it: - No control over extruder fan - Bad/No Profil managment for Filament settings(Always have to manually set extruder and bed temperature) - No way to rotate objects in all dimension with slic3r(?) - Generated gcode somehow always automatically sets extruder temby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: I'm Thinking Of Building My Own Large Scale 3D Printer, And I'm Looking For Some Advice On Part Choices, And Advice On Overstraining Familier Parts From Smaller Printers - 11 years ago
I wasn't actually saying you should go with RADDS but that the RAMPS-FD is virtually dead and the only variants available are buggy. The Radds uses an Arduino DUE Board which is 32 bit and is much more powerfull than the Ramps1.4 setup (I Have both) The loose component that you have is a Diode and its purpose is so the the Ramps board will deliver power to the Arduino underneath it (You will neby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: I'm Thinking Of Building My Own Large Scale 3D Printer, And I'm Looking For Some Advice On Part Choices, And Advice On Overstraining Familier Parts From Smaller Printers - 11 years ago
have a read of this thread Ramps for Due and you will not even consider Ramps-FD however there is some coverage of RADDS in there and that is a much better board IMHO.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Strange artifact in brim/skirt - 11 years ago
Quoteadavidm Hi, Does anyone know why i'm getting this strange artifact in the skirt brim of any object I slice? It's like there is an extra object there but there isn't! Not a big problem usually but very large objects make this appear out of the bed area which causes issues. Thanks adavidm Actually I had this very thing happen to me the other day and couldn't figure it out and it wasn't anby dougal1957 - Repetier
Re: New Sainsmart Ramps 1.4 controller issue - 11 years ago
QuoteChrisT88 Yeah I've tried checking the hot end temps by hand as well (carefully of course) and also checking the outputs with a volt meter to be sure. The D8 heated bed output shows voltage correctly but D9 and D10 do not. That's as maybe but you pic's don't show a thermistor for your hotend being connected to the board without that they won't heat up at all.by dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: ruined a 12v-rail of a rumba, now they sended me a rambo - 11 years ago
Quotemknaap hello, last week, i made a mistake while wiring my printer with a new rumba. now 1 of the 2 12v rails is dead. i can messure some volts but there is no current flowing. so i though "just a buy a new one" so i did. now they have sended me a rambo. not a rumba... my first impression of a rambo: "so many variants, so little documentation" i liked the rumba because of some upgrades i couby dougal1957 - Controllers
Re: First Print Attempt - 11 years ago
Quoteelwood127 This was a kit from Aurora. The Z-605. I've searched every where for a manual or documentation for using Repetier and have found nothing. Kit construction and software manual are a joke. It didn't even explain how to set up xy and z stops much less extruder height ajustments. software guide says load this like that and print. What is Marlin? And do you have any suggestions on setupby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed not working - 11 years ago
Quotetanner331 Would it be in the Repetier software settings or the marlin firmware? Where is the spot to enable the heatbed? thanks Tanner It would be in the Firmware and I am not to familiar with Marlin but looking at a config.h file for marlin I see the following. I have Highlighted the line I think may be the one that Matters. Dougby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Having a problem is driving 2 Z motors? - 11 years ago
Quotecoreformula They are running in parallel—I think. To clarify, is this "Z" diagram in series? And this "Z" diagram parallel? I also have to keep E1 open for a second extruder. To wire them in series (Reduces the total current required) see Z Axis series wiring HTH Dougby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Having a problem is driving 2 Z motors? - 11 years ago
Quotecoreformula They are running in parallel—I think. To clarify, is this "Z" diagram in series? And this "Z" diagram parallel? I also have to keep E1 open for a second extruder. Both those diagrams show them in Parallelby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Heatbed not working - 11 years ago
Quotetanner331 Hi I have just finished my 3d printer and the heatbed will not heat up. I was wondering what I should do to try to fix it? When turn on the heatbed on the repetier it says the temperature that it is set but the heatbed doesn't heat up. It is registering a temperature from the thermistor. I have tried removing the fuse and replacing it with a wire and that did not do anything. I hby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Aurora Z-605 motor wiring - 11 years ago
Quoteelwood127 Well, I uninstalled and reloaded Repetier 1.0.5. Win7 automatically loaded USB drivers. Set up in Printer Settings. Have connection. Clicked on X Axis "Left .10" in Manual Control with no action. Command line says "4 Command waiting". If I keep clicking motor movement controls the command line changes by 3 each click. 4, 7,10, 13 and so on. Whats does Command waiting mean? Ahrg!by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Aurora Z-605 motor wiring - 11 years ago
Quotetamy1986 Just a question where is the best place to find the software/firmware for aurora z605 3d printer? PLEASE HELP??? www.repetier.comby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Repetier Host and DUE Board - 11 years ago
Quoterepetier Ok, updated config tool to include T4. Thank you so much kind sirby dougal1957 - Repetier
Re: Repetier Host and DUE Board - 11 years ago
Repetier Thankyou for that I do have another Question re the RADDS board though in that it has 5 thermistor ports and your Firmware configuration tool only goes to 4 (ie T0-T3) is there any chance of adding T4 ? Dougby dougal1957 - Repetier
Re: Aurora Z-605 motor wiring - 11 years ago
Quoteelwood127 I found what looks to be the same model stepper. Nema 17 76 oz-in, 4.2 volt. They list wiring as: 1A-RED, 1B-GREEN, 2A-YELLOW, 2B-BLUE. I got the nads to plug this printer in and load software. In manual control I get no action. When I click on control button I see a caption reading: Command 3, Command 6 and so on as I click different control buttons, but no movement. I'm about toby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Repetier Host and DUE Board - 11 years ago
I have just purchased a Due board managed to upload Repetier v0.92 Firmware to it using the Programming port. However I can't get it to talk to Repetier host (Either 0.95 or 1.05) I have set the reset to Due Native USB. The board appears to connect but I get 1 command waiting and this number then increments each time I try and send any characters from the G-Code entry box. Is there any way of teby dougal1957 - Repetier
Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 11 years ago
Quotemarcossf Quotemisan @marcossf: then I guess it is 200x32=6400 steps/rev Nope, you're wrong. Steps_per_mm = (motor steps * motor microsteps) / lead screw pitch 3200 = (200*32)/2 With 1/32 microsteping 1600 = (200*16)/2 With 1/16 microsteping 1.8º motor steps/rev = 360º/1.8º = 200 steps/rev. Trapezoidal lead screw 10mm diameter, 2 mm pitch/rev. Actually he was correct as heby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hot end not heating up Ramps 1.4 - 11 years ago
D8 is normally for the heated bed and D10 is for EXT0 Hotend, Worth checking? Dougby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 11 years ago
Quotegmh39 Where did you get your RADDS board from? I did a quick search but can't find anything. Got it direct from Angelo see This Radds Thread He has a Web Shop but it isn't to clear I dealt with him by PM to start with and he sent me a copy of the English Manual for it. Beauty of it is that Repetier already supports it. Doug.by dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 11 years ago
Quotedougal1957 Quoteadambrum Started my build now following Jands design for printed parts but im using gt2 belts. Most parts are printed, the frame is built and i think all hardware has arrived. Next big step is to pull my delta apart for the electronics or maybe i should just upgrade to 32bit ? If I were you I would upgrade to 32 bit probably using one of Angelo's RADDS Boards. Mine has jusby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 11 years ago
Quoteadambrum Started my build now following Jands design for printed parts but im using gt2 belts. Most parts are printed, the frame is built and i think all hardware has arrived. Next big step is to pull my delta apart for the electronics or maybe i should just upgrade to 32bit ? If I were you I would upgrade to 32 bit probably using one of Angelo's RADDS Boards. Mine has just arrived will pby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Magazine still active? - 11 years ago
Try Issue 3 Its been there for some time Dougby dougal1957 - RepRap magazine
Re: How to resize an .stl - 11 years ago
Repetier host also has this ability built in pre slicer and it can be axis independent or locked. HTH Dougby dougal1957 - 3D Design tools
Re: Z axis not moving - 11 years ago
Quotewaitaki Well, if you have tried different drivers in different positions on multiple Ramps boards, then I too would assume its not the Ramps or driver boards. (Do you have 3 jumpers under all the steppers?) So, it seems the likely culprit is, maybe, the Mega or the firmware? Can you post your firmware config file? Or possibly the Z Endstop is triggered stopping any movement try operating yoby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: V-Slot is totally solid, reliable, and modular - 11 years ago
Quoteanvoice Nice, thanks for the info. I'll probably get some 8mm to be safe, better to keep things neat. The t-slot insert idea is clever, might try that out. Motedis is a good source for extrusion and tee nuts etc Extrusion stuff They also do a cut to size service at no extra cost and have smooth rods etc as well. Another company that are good for other bits is Dold and they are good for sby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: Hot end recommendations - 11 years ago
Quotetanner331 Hi I am looking to get a hot end for my rostock 3d printer. I was wondering what are some recommendations for a good hot end. I would like the capability to print with ABS, PLA, Taulman Bridge, and Taulman Tritan. I would also prefer a U.S based dealer for easier and faster shipping. I was thinking about getting a j head but I am not sure which version I should get? The hot end alby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Re: CoreXY construction details - 11 years ago
Also see After H-Bot go Core XYby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXY construction details - 11 years ago
try Robotdigg.com for toothed pulleys and belts he is very cheap (Approx $2 US each) 20 tooth GT2 pulley 8mm boreby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 11 years ago
Update My Kraken has arrived All parts laid out (Difficult to see the water pump in the rear middle Hot Ends assembled just need thermistors and heater fitting Cold side of kraken with Bowden fittings and water inlet/outlet barbs all this fits within a 40mm cube More to Come Radds board with extension to 8 steppers and 3 x 128 microstepping drivers ordered. Dougby dougal1957 - CoreXY Machines