Look in your marlin firmware, Its a mixture of DEFAULT_ACCELERATION and DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION and DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION also while you are there, it would be worth looking at DEFAULT_XYJERK setting, 20 was too high for me, shift print layers because it was moving and jerking too fast. i set to 10 // default settings #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,7by pushthatbolder - Printing
I agree, either change the polarity of the connection of the end stop, or edit inside of your firmware.by pushthatbolder - General Mendel Topics
Have placed all the bridges under the drivers? If you have none, your firmware might think you are at 1/16 micro stepping. You mention changing input voltage, it not voltage. Because voltage is 12v. You want to adjust the amp input. Spin clockwise until motor hums. Hhhuuuummmmmm.... (<--- like this) then dial it back anticlockwise. Until the humming is gone and motor is spinning well. Motorby pushthatbolder - General
Hey Jamesmoe, I sent you a private message Regardsby pushthatbolder - General
you state the following QuoteMung Via Indiegoo I do not want to start a business and this project is only here to fund the cost of my expenses Lower you expenses, and ask for a realistic amount. and make a better video. List of items required for development and testing of drivers: high quality storage oscilloscope x2 £4000 (you should only need to pay £200 each =£400 ) 1080p camera £500 (why?by pushthatbolder - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
$1,600,000 GOAL!!! Seems high you stated Total cost £16800 in the description. you prices seem inflated. you could get all that for $3000 tops. never use the words 'Drop Ship' dont use words like 'Chinese' or 'China' or 'Cheap' find another supplier if you only get price breaks after 10'000 pieces, most are happy with orders of 100 to get discount prices they cost about $5 each if you buy 10by pushthatbolder - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Noted, and changedby pushthatbolder - General
So turns out, yes, I can print at 50 microns. (0.05mm layer height) I did not think my machine was 'That' good but, yeh, it is... it was cool to see, because my z-axis is calbribrated so well, it wasnt a problem I printed the 20mm calibration cube with 0% infil and 3 lines thickness of walls. 20mm was 393 layers and 2hours and 40minutes with the first layer at 400microns (I could change in settby pushthatbolder - General
You could print from a smart lcd controller and use an sd card. Or get a bluetooth adapter for the tablet you are referring to. You could probably run the program on the tablet, make sure it has enough ram to run the slicing.by pushthatbolder - General
try 'Repetier host' with 'Slic3r' it may see if its a software thing, or a problem with the printer. it is much more user friendly, just set your settings and slice and print.by pushthatbolder - Printing
could you not just speed up the process of auto homing. so you can go get a cup of coffee and when you come back it has already homed an started to print.by pushthatbolder - General
it is 1.2mm spring 20mm long 7.5mmOD and 5mm IDby pushthatbolder - Mechanics
this should remind people to always be in contact with people on time, if its a good reason everybody will understand, other wise its a bad situation until proven otherwise.by pushthatbolder - General
I using 110 bed, and 245-250C nozzle temp. No fan. This is why Any lower on bed and will affect larger print jobs. Any lower temp on nozzle and will have bad layer adhesion (your temps might be a bit different) I was printing on knapton and ABS glue, then moved to nabs glue on ABS glue straigh on the glass. also i had to put cork board as insulation, to help get to the temps and help keep it atby pushthatbolder - General
Did you configue repetier for both hotends in the setting?.by pushthatbolder - General
Delete everything to do with Marlin from your computer, RE-download and Start again. or post your Configuration.h file for others to view. It is easier to start again. as you may have made a mistake somewhere. Dont forget to unplug mega2560 and ramps from power. dont forget to choose the board you are working with in the IDE settingsby pushthatbolder - General
A paint scraper works well, (the flat steel razor blade type) cuts right through anything and does not scratch the glass also roll on glue works VERY well I use a brand from the newsagent, somethings i also put hairspray on the surface, it is borderline excess sticking, which makes it PERFECT. Apply to glass and smooth with something flat.by pushthatbolder - General
what are your overall dimensions?by pushthatbolder - Australia, Perth RepRap User Group
Also 10mm and 8mm chrome smooth rods at custom lengths (500mm max) Minimum order qntys apply.by pushthatbolder - Australia - for sale
Selling parts in Australia and filling a Pre-order of Any 3d Printer parts you need Quality and Tested, Cheap Prices Cut off point is 20th October (order now and Pay by between 15th and 20th october) Message me for prices. Order NOW and PAY LATER!!! Standard or Express postage Can pass on lower prices. If its to do with 3d printing and reprap. I can get quality parts. I have been testing forby pushthatbolder - Australia - for sale
I will message you.by pushthatbolder - Australia - for sale
why dont you print at 1.05% size and let us know how you go. you may have to account for shrinkage.by pushthatbolder - Printing
Food De-hydrator would works. they are pretty cheap. Second hand in Australia $5-$10 (New $40-50) in America you could probably pick one up from good will for a few dollars. or $20 on ebay if your lucky in an auction. Or $40 new Or $30by pushthatbolder - General
He is probably having 'lifting issues' its all about the first layer, perhaps he is not printing with a brim, or not printing at a right nozzle temp. he also asks 'Would you guy's recommend printing ABS on blue painters tape? ' For printing ABS on blue painters tape I'd say no like i said, i was using the knapton tape, but... I don't want to waste knapton tape, although its cheaper than blby pushthatbolder - General
try heating the hotend 10-20C over the recomended print temp of abs, and let it ooze out. then force more through. or take off the hot-end and soak it in acetone for a while, let it dry and then heat up and put a 3mm bolt through the bore. just be carefulby pushthatbolder - General
Printing on Knapton tape and Dissolved ABS in Acetone solution (ABS GLUE) also i have has success with ABS GLUE straight on the glass, it cleans up niceby pushthatbolder - General
yes, disable steppers then hand raise the nozzle using the lead screws, measuring that its even on both sides, and paper thickness away from the bed then raise the end-stop so it just clicks, or it may light up if you are using a mech V1.2 end-stop. then on your software, home Z axis and it will rise, and it will lower to the end-stop location, measure with paper again and make sure it is even oby pushthatbolder - Printing
perhaps your firmware does not use these commands? did you download marlin from the original website or developer? did you change any command codes? you could always add something at the end of the print like G1 X0 Y0 but my prints are ending like this G92 E0 M107 M104 S0 ; turn off temperature G28 X0 ; home X axis M84 ; disable motors stupid question, is your heat bed connected to yourby pushthatbolder - General
im sorry if i use too many metaphors, but that is how my brain works, my reply will be the following--- Your title has the word 'Sketch-up' in it. Online Incubator would be a good idea. Think a mixture of Github and Sketch-up and Google docs. Lets say 8 People, with 8 different ideas, all people work with each other to build skills, share suggestions with others, etc,etc but you would need toby pushthatbolder - General