Thank you all for replying. Actually I am not sure if it is the belt need to be replaced. I an never tell how much tension need to apply to it. As Origamib said I do not see any damages on the belt visually. How to properly check the idlers, motors, pulleys or tensioners?by rich1812 - General
Hello, I have a reprap purse i3 3d printer. Recently I went print a small block, it was supposed to be a square, but every few layer, the printer makes a clicking noise, the finished print is nothing square, along the Y-axle, it keeps shifting every few layers. I think the Y-axle belt is gonna. I need to replace the belt. When I order the belt, Is the gt2 6mm belt with 2mm pitch the correct one tby rich1812 - General
Today while I am printing, The printer suddenly stopped and I get this error "macpronterface Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baud rate" what's happing?by rich1812 - General
Thank you for your replies. I found out that the motor is fine, the motor diver is fine, it is the cable causes the problem as I initially suspected. Thanks to eBay, I bought a lot of 5 cable from China. The hard part now is to wait for its arrival!by rich1812 - Reprappers
Yes, I did try to solder the wire to the tiny terminal, Now the problem is when I try to extrude the filament, the extrude motor just goes tic-tac tic-tac and won't take in the filament. I am not sure if the step motor has burnt out or the motor driver died as you said.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Hello, the extruder motor cable on my Folger Reprap Prusa i3. one of the 4 wires broke off on the extruder end-the white plug that goes to the motor. Where can I get a replacement? Thank youby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hello, I have the Reprap i3 for over a year now, for most part it works well. But then this happened recently. The green terminal to the extruder and heated bed got extremely hot, and it was burning. as in the attached pic. Why is that?by rich1812 - General Mendel Topics
Appreciate all the replies. As it turned out, it was caused by the loose wire from the heat bed connection. Perhaps it's because of the vibrations during printing. once I tighten it up, it works perfectlyby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I am wondering why I get such bad print. I have this .stl file (attached.) I set Slier to 25% fill density, 2 layer shell, 0.1mm layer height, it came out like in the attached pic, the top layers were not printed at all. What am I doing wrong?by rich1812 - General Mendel Topics
Quotegmckee Also that heated bed says it will draw up to [email protected]. Assuming you are running a traditional controller the bed probably would need an SSR with heatsink to control the power. 18A is over what most of the connectors, fuses, MOSFETs, and other electronics on controllers can handle. You may also need to get a larger power supply rated at [email protected] to power bed and electronics. That's an eby rich1812 - General
Thank you all for your replies. I also find this place where sells the 10" hot bed. [3dtek.xyz]. No surprise that it would draw more power, but it seems doable.by rich1812 - General
Hi, I have the purse i3, I am thinking of the increasing the print area to 10"x10" by modifying the current one(8x"x8".) Needless to say, the X and Y rods would have to be longer and the middle frame would have to be enlarged, and I suspect the Marlin firmware would also needs to be tweaked.Other than that, what else should I take into consideration? Thanks in advance.by rich1812 - General
Thanks for the Reply. I was hopping that I could send the code from any BT connected computer. But I guess it doesn't work that way.by rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, after following a few tutorials, I had successfully hooked up a HC-05 Bluetooth to the riprap. However, when I tried to print from Macponterface with the gCode, the printer becomes very jittery and stuttering, I wonder why that is? has anyone had experience with this type of connection?by rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, I have this weird inssue. What happen is I am printing a very large object, it took almost 14 hours to print. it was fine all this time, at the very end (the last few layers.), I got this message "attempted to write invalid text to console, which due to an invalid baud rate." The printer stopped!! It almost gave me a heart attack!! Good thing that I caught it right on the spot. I paused the pby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, for a whole year since I built the Prusa i3, I had no major problem. But recently it has been acting very strangely. When I started to print for an hour or so, it would randomly stop.Ts is especially annoying when an object is printed 4-5 hours down the road. I thought it was a problem on the RAMPS board, so replaced it with a brand new one. Added a fan which blow directly at the RAMP board.by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, In the effort to eliminate the clunky USB cable, I successfully hooked up a HC-05 bluetooth to the printer. but when I go to print, the printer gets very jerky. Does anyone have experience in using the HC-05 can provide some suggestions?by rich1812 - General
Hi, I have seen some videos that the printer prints in a rapid speed put mine into a shamefully snail pace. What do I need to do to make everything faster?by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks or the reply. I spoke too soon. After setting the HEATER_0_MINTEMP to 0, even tho the error message is gone, now I connected everything back, double check all wirings and wires, everything seems fine. But neither the bed nor the extruder heater will turn on . I am running out of ideas here. I try not to blame the board since it is a new board, what else could it be? Ahaaaaaaaaa!!!by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I need to find a replacement plug for the RAMPS board.The green one where the power input from the PSU. But I don't know what it is called. Can someone tell me? Thxby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
I might have found the solution. But before I jump the gun, I need to confirm this is the right solution. In the Marlin configuration.h This block // The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used // to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken. // Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time. #define HEATby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the reply. I am not sure which version I have since I downloaded it a year ago. But I will give it a try.by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello, the original RAMP1.4 board burned out, so I got this one on ebay . I thought it would be a simple replacement, am I wrong! Now every time I run Pronterface, I get this error, "Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered." and something about machine shut down. Even tho the two board identical, when I took a closer look of the board, it says"RAMSP1.4A" (I believe the RAMSP is a typo on theby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDownunder35m Once you got some experience it often comes down to look and feel. You see the print and you know what should be done to correct it. Play around with the temp and retraction to get rid of the last spider webs. Would you mind telling me more about the retraction? Did you mean the retraction on the extruder motor? And what can I do to fine tune it? Thanks again.by rich1812 - Printing
QuoteDownunder35m Well, if there is one thing working then it would be bridging LOL The surface looks quite rough, might be too high in temp. And the strings are a result of the retraction not being set properly. With the settings correctly the part should come out clean and with little to no need of cleaning up. Thank you for the reply. Considering initially I didn't think it could be done atby rich1812 - Printing
Hello, I have been 3D print for some time now. By no mean I am an expert. I have just printed this object (in pics) I have never printed something this big and odd in shape, it took a wooly 10 hours!!!! And I wasn't sure it will come out ok, as a result, it didn't come out too badly but messy, tho need a lot of cleaning tho! I am seeking for advice in how to shorten the print time without reduceby rich1812 - Printing
Thanks all for the replies. After some digging. I did find the feature on the OS X version. However, it isn't as forward as in the Windows version.by rich1812 - Slic3r
Hello, I have been using Slicer for almost a year now. In a whole it is a very good software. However, one thing bugs me the most is its inability to make the custom configure file as default. Each time I open Slicer, I have to remember to reload the configure file. It just very cumbersome. It seems like a no brainer to allow the users to make their customizations the default or at least allow tby rich1812 - Slic3r
Hi, I have the Folger Reprap i3 print and I use Marlin frameware. This has bugged me for awhile now. When I load a gcode to Macpronterface, it gives me an estimate print time. However the actual print time is much longer, depends on how big the object is, sometimes it can be almost twice as long. Is the a way to fix this?by rich1812 - Reprappers
I am wondering if anyone knows a 3D printer that have a larger print area, like 12"x12".by rich1812 - Reprappers