Hi, I am trying to recalibrate the extruder, in Macpronterface, I set it to Extrude [email protected]/min then I went measure the exturded filament against the pre measured 100mm(10cm.) I marked 10cm on top of the extruder, ten extruded 10cm however the extruded filament always comes out a around 1 to 1.5 cm short. I read this guide on calibration, it has some formulas, but I don't know where to put thby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hello, I found that the most difficult shape to print is something such as a pipe or column. For example, in this very short video, , I am trying to print a straight up rounded column, however the nozzle keeps digging too deep into the column. Any suggestion in how to avoid this from happening? in my slic3r1.1.7, Printer Settings, the retraction settings Length was set to 0, and Lift Z was 2. Iby rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotestartingtoprint Great news, just woke up to a completed print. I switched the stepper driver for the X-axis with the one for the Extruder on the RAMPS board. I set the acceleration to 2% of the default. Used these settings: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 45} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {180,180,10,200} #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATIONby rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotejrcaster Also check your vrefs. Thank you all for your replies. Hi jrcaster, I heard of ref a lot in the course of building the printer, but everything seems to work fine and I never bothered to fiddle with it, What is the proper ref for each axle?by rich1812 - Reprappers
I don't really know what the cause of the problem is. My printer was working fine since I built it until now. I was going to print a thin disk. Somehow, when the first layer was printed, it was in the correct location on the glass, but once it gets to the second layer, the X shifted. (See attached shifted.jpg.) I am not sure what causes it, but I think it has something to do with the belt tensionby rich1812 - Reprappers
Quotedooms101 Final pictures of a spiral vase I printed. I think I need to lower my z-axis endstop just slightly, the adhesion of the first or second layer to the rest of the print isn't that great. Other than that, I'd say this printer rocks! This print took about 3 hours to complete, I wonder if I could speed it up a bit. I'm not sure how long a 'better' printer could do it in... Next, I'llby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejaguarking11 Just buy a brother brand printer. Most of them have large refillable cartriges, or even downright cheap cartriges. The one I own has large cartriges that last 1000+ pages and only cost about 5USD for a set. The model number is MFC-j430w. The printer is wifi enabled and supports android as well as IOS. They sell oversize tanks that require you to remove the ink door on the frontby rich1812 - General
Has anyone ever tried the BuilaTak? . I just got mine yesterday. I bought it in the hope to get rid of the cumbersome glass preparation and the messy hair spray clean up. Well, I was wrong! I followed the instruction, stick this damn piece of %$#@, readjusted the nozzle height, all excited, started my print. Disappointingly, when my build was done. it sticks to the surface as if it was glued toby rich1812 - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus Hi, dumb questions do not exist, however, I would like to encourage you to search more for answers there is a lot to find about Slic3r settings, for example here: Go through all the parts (1, 2 and 3) and you will be good to go a 100%. I noticed you opened up a couple of new topics lately and I think most of these topics could easily be answered by searching a little bit. Of coby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive So slicers, there are ton of them out there, and I don't want to cause a war in here lol. Anyhow so here is my opinion, choose the one dpending on the job. I started in Silc3r and Repetier. Pretty good for all around things. When you start printing objects that need support, then I moved to another slicer MatterControl, because the support it does has more settings to make iby rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive What Slicer are you using? Either case, I have found if you edit your nozzle diameter setting or default extrusion width depending on the software your using, can fix some issues. Really for me ends up being what I am printing and doing a little math. So lets say the wall width is 2mm and you have your perimeters extrusion width in the Gcode is says .4mm (this info is in theby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, I have some questions about the quality of the print outs. I am not sure if it ia because over/under heated extruder/hot bed. And I am also not sure whether it has the to do with the quality of the filament.On the holy.jpg, why are there holes in the supposedly solid area? And on gaps.jpg, what causes the gaps between layers? Also the smoothness, the side that sits on the hotbed comes out nicby rich1812 - Reprappers
Ha ha. Got the printer fully working. Having fun print out all sorts of stuff A somewhat decent looking Llama Now there are some small issues. 1.) The hair spray works somewhat, sometime the print just won't stick to the glass, here is my genetically modified llama gone bad! Poor llama BTW, I just ordered a BuildTach, supposedly works better then using hair spray, has anyone tried it? 2.) Onby rich1812 - Reprappers
Hi, I have tried a few different brands of hair spray on my RepRap with mixed result, some stick to the glass better then the other. I am wondering on the commercially available 3D printer, what do they use to keep the object stick? Thanks.by rich1812 - Reprappers
QuoteDrozes Hi everyone, First time posting but been reading this forum religiously over the last week. I build my Folger kit over 2-3 nights and spent maybe 2 hours figuring out for the configurations that worked for me. This thread has been great and wanted to thank all the main active people (You know who you are!) who have contributed - this has really helped my build be successful. Thank yoby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
just curious. On the top of the extruder, looking from the front, there are two holes, I know the one on the right is for the 3mm filament, but what is the one on the left? Is it for 1.75 mm filament?by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecoldfront Quoterich1812 DUH! I just realized that the switch was pre-set to 220V not 110V, How silly of me! Yeah glad you figured out the PSU problem, but did it fix the heating problem?? Seems like it does, right now I am running a stress test, I have the hot bed and the extruder running for almost 3 hours now and monitoring it, So far it never drops below the target temperature and it kby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Oddly enough that is what I posted originally. Then thought no, I better not write that so as not to offend you, as it was covered a few times. He he. So I changed my post to reflect info on the atx power supply. I should have left it as is. I wonder if anyone saw it before I edited it. Either way glad you figured it out. :0) HAHAHA You should have posted it for idiots lby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
DUH! I just realized that the switch was pre-set to 220V not 110V, How silly of me!by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Waltermixx, I thought there must be something like that, definitily beats the plug and unplug routine.by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I picked the ATX PSU because I could not get an output from he Folger OEM and I am too eager to put together the printer and I have a few ATX PSUs handy around the house, so I postpone dealing with the Folger's. Speaking of which, does the Folger's have a PSU_ON? If so I did not see it. Yes, this is exactly how I set it up "P1- Pin 1 Heatbed + Pin 2/3 Heatbed" And I do have PCB Heatbed R1by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow, coldfront, you are an early bird like me !by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi coldfront, Are you saying that the thermostat is already built in the bed? Because of the lack of instruction for this kit, I read it somewhere on the net, I think it was Instructable.com, it says that I need to connected a 103 NTC in the center of the bed, so I did. Like Jamus, I also thought the thermostat was missing from the kit. Perhaps that's why I have the shut down issue. Oh one morby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
AAAAAAAAAAH! It's baaaaaaaack! This is driving me crazy! After working for like 15 minutes, the problem comes back. I isolated the problem by connect the 12V negative to Pin2 alone, then pin3 alone, in both cases it works fine, so it confirmed that the bed is good. Correct? The only two possible causes I can think of now is 1.) Is there something I need to tweak in the Configuration.h? 2.) Iby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I finally put everything together, now I have two issues with heatings. This is how the hot bed supposed to be connected, am I correct? (12V positive goes to pin1, nagetive goes to pin2 and 3 (please see hotbed.jpg) However, once I set the bed to 60 degrees in Macpronterface, RAMPS shuts down instantly, (the red LEDs flash a split second.) At first I thought something was wrong with me wiriby rich1812 - General Mendel Topics
YAY!!!! my first sea trial!!!. I am wondering why it stops printing because "cold extrusion prevented" so soon.(Please see print_log121314.txt)Is it supposed to be that way? So very excited!!!by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi jjbunn, I checked the bed, the resistance between pin 1 and 2, as well as pin 1 and 3 are very low but consistence, so there is nothing wrong with the bed. This morning I got up the first thing I did was to re-wire the negative to pin 2 and 3, reloaded the firmware. Magically, IT WAORKS!!!! May but the printer needs a good night of sleep too. Now perhaps the last question, I tried a tesby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi cold front and jjbunn, after repeat test here is what I found, I follow previous post, I connected the power to the hot bed, on P1, 12V positive goes to pin 1, negative goes to p2 and pin3. this is when the shut down happens. If I connect the nagetive to either pin2 or pin3, it doesn't shut down but only half of the bed is heated. Also another strange thing is when the negative connected to pby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Ahhh, more question! When I connected Macpronterface to the printer, it comes online just fine, when I set the extruder to 180 degrees, it's fine as well. However once I set the bed to 60 degrees, within 1-2 seconds, RAMPS makes a click sound then shuts off. I checked all my wirings, I didn't see anything wrong. In the Marlin_v1 configure.h I see these lines of code for temp protection // Whenby rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants
Once I get this printer running, I like to fancy it up. I am thinking of getting an aluminum frame, I am not too crazy about the shiny aluminum frame but something like the kind of aluminum used on Apple's Macbook Air or brushed aluminium. I searched eBay but found nothing of that sort, does anyone know where I can find something like that?by rich1812 - Prusa i3 and variants