I tried to look at the Gcode and see if I could see the shell lines expanding outward, but there are too many moves. I need to slice up a simpler part so this isn't as daunting of a task. I looked at skeiniso. I can't get it rotated to a good view to be sure, but I do not think it is showing the taper there. It would be really handy if skeiniso had a way to snap to three or four useful views soby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
The parts look about like that, but the taper is a little more consistent and visible. It doesn't have a big bulge in the middle like that one. Maybe the bulge just had more to do with the holes though, since it occurs on the same layers. I started printing a full plate of parts with lower bed AND extruder temperatures. The shells are coming out cleaner than they had been, but I still see the coby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Ah, you must have been using the makerbot firmware? I wasn't aware you were using ReplicatorG. Far as I know (it has been a while since I bothered looking at firmware updates available through RepG, maybe things have changed recently) the only firmware updates you get through RepG are for the makerbot. Supposedly 5D firmware will work with newer RepG versions, but I didn't have any luck with it.by dazed.dnc - General
I've printed a few dozen or so things on the makerbot and now I finally have my mendel running. At first things were looking good. I printed a couple of small gears and the teeth meshed pretty well, the infill was good, and raft-less printing was working beautifully. Now that I have printed some bigger parts I'm seeing deformations that I have never seen before though. I'm not sure what could caby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I wasn't sure about this either. I just clamped the end stops on bars at each axis. I found random places to glue flags to and bent them to a shape that enabled them to activate the end stop. This has to be way off base from how it is supposed to be done, but here are some pictures of the way I did it.by dazed.dnc - General Mendel Topics
That relay uses zero-cross switching. I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing, but mine does too. When your controller switches it on/off, there will be a small delay in response because the AC voltage has to hit the 0V part of the curve before the relay will actually switch. This will throw off the response of your temperature control a bit. However, I have seen people say this helps with reby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
With so many different forums, it can be difficult to tell which is most appropriate, but questions like this would probably get more and/or better answers in the firmware forum. For starters, which type of code would you like it to be? M, G, something completely new? If you want to use an existing type, you can go to "process_g_code.pde" (shows up as the tab "process_g_code" in the arduino IDE)by dazed.dnc - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In Europe all the sockets in a house are the same > voltage, about 220V. If you run it from 120V it > will be more like 1/4 of the power (P = V^2/R). > You would need a 120V version of the heater in the > US. Oops. I meant to figure the wattage but I had current on my mind instead. I forgot to account for P =by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
You shouldn't need two extruder controllers. One controller should have three mosfets for controlling up to three 12V devices. Configure your firmware/software to use one for the extruder heater and a second one for the bed heater. It might be worth noting that the heater shown above was designed to run on 220V. I don't know many people who have 220V outlets handy for something like this. Maybeby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I have a bunch of scrap pieces (aborted builds, test pieces, leftovers from design iterations, etc). Most are pretty small but you could destroy them to your heart's content since they are not useful for anything. I'm only keeping them in hopes of having a recycling rig someday. If you can't find someone local, I could ship you a small pile of parts. The simple answer is you have *some* controlby dazed.dnc - General
1/16 microstepping driver, 9 tooth drive pulley, not sure about the driven one - it should be a standard pulley though M8 threaded rod I measured the physical change in distance and set up ratios that compared the number of steps with the expected and actual distance. I then re-arranged the ratio/formula to solve for the unknown value, which gave me the above number. I guess I'll have to toy arby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The strength of your motors will play a major role in the performance of your printer. Going cheap here would be like putting a four cylinder engine in a Corvette. It could cripple an otherwise good build. Over the last five years or so I have scrapped a lot of obsolete/junk copiers. I pull out circuit boards and whatever else I think might be useful. The motors are almost always too weak to beby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
#define X_STEPS_PER_MM 78.858 #define Y_STEPS_PER_MM 79.836 #define Z_STEPS_PER_MM 6400.806 #define E0_STEPS_PER_MM 16 // NEMA 17 59/11 geared extruder 8mm diameter drive // The speed at which to talk with the host computer; default is 57600 #define HOST_BAUD 115200 // *RO #define FAST_XY_FEEDRATE 3000.0 #define FAST_Z_FEEDRATE 50.0 #define ACCELERATION_ON #define SLOW_XY_FEEDby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
First off, prepare to be so frustrated that you might like to smash your printer and/or PC into a pile of dust. This will really test your patience - especially if you choose the no-kit rout. It took me 6 months to get my Tech zone Mendel in working order. For a custom built rig, you have a lot of options. For instance, you could buy laser cut wood from Makerbot and source the rest of the hardwaby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Architect Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >... I was a bit surprised > to see a test run just stop responding a 3rd of > the way through. That sounds very much like a problem I just got done fighting through. Read more here The short version... I deleted the code that shuts down the arduino. That seems to have fixed it.by dazed.dnc - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
When you are looking at what the last sent command was, I think you may need to consider the four commands above and below that command. I'm not familiar with the buffering system enough to know if this is a potential issue. What I'm getting at is that you might see G1 F6000 as being the last command sent, but maybe the culprit is the next Gcode line that is just starting to flow through the Gcodby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It took me a while to get what you were on about Apparently I need to adjust the time on my camera. It has been a long build though. I started somewhere back in June or July of this year. It has been one problem after another. Everything from shipping delays to blown arduino pins and seemingly temperamental firmware. I'm very hopeful that I finally fixed my last major bug last night though.by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I realized that my firmware was restarting itself whenever it encountered this unknown error. After weeks of trying to track it down, I had only gotten intermittent fixes at best. Sometimes I could only manage to delay the reset by a few layers. In a last ditch effort to get past it, I commented out a segment of code that forces everything to re-initialize. This probably isn't the safest thing, bby dazed.dnc - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Maybe I'm just not up to speed enough to understand the benefit of all that, but on the surface it sounds overly complex. I use a solid state relay to control the AC. I use an output on my RAMPS shield to control the relay. Once I figured out the "SLOW_CLOCK" thing, I was able to control it without any special code or PWM. It has a temperature swing of maybe +/- 5C. I figure this is probably gooby dazed.dnc - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I wouldn't go doing that. You'll probably pay $7 just in shipping for all of 4 screws. You don't really need all 4 screws. Heck, even two would be plenty. The problem with my screws was that the motor had threads cut for a 4-40 threaded screw, but I was given M3 threaded screws to mount it with. I ended up using screws from my own stash which had shorter Philips heads.by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
1) I used a couple of drops of super glue placed on the shaft before sliding on the pulley. Be careful not to let it drip back to the motor. You want to keep it held so that any extra glue runs down the shaft and away from the motor until it dries. If you only use a drop or two, you should be able to break it free with a flat head screwdriver if you need to and yet it will not slip. 2) Unless thby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
Thanks for the suggestion. While it seems to have fixed another problem I was having, it still appears to be using the tower settings. I'm a bit confused though because "maximum tower height" is set to 5, yet it only prints two layers at each tower. Prior to deleting the old settings, tower had been set to 2 layers. Is it possible that it is somehow pulling these settings from a location other tby dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
blktoptrvl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I also like the metal springs you have > installed. I think I will get a set to substitute > for the wooden springs! Yeah, I noticed that once the wood springs are collapsed they don't really spring back, which made leveling the build plate a bit more difficult since things could only go lower. That meant if onby dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I'm using Skeinforge 36 found at I have disabled "tower", but it still seems to be using the tower settings. Does anyone else have this problem? I have been trying a lot of different versions of Skeinforge and firmware, so it is entirely possible that I have wrecked a file somewhere in the process of moving things around.by dazed.dnc - Skeinforge
I thought the same thing several months ago, so I went to home depot and bought a bunch of small spools in varying shapes and sizes. No matter which one I tried, it was impossible to extrude in a standard hot end. It might be possible to use, but you would have to make a tapered barrel or something special. I do not have a lathe so I cannot experiment any further with this idea. The problem I sby dazed.dnc - General
Your bearings are upside down. The frog plate goes under the rods and the little feet on the bearings that you screw it together with go above the rods. Maybe these pictures will help? This is my y-axis. Mendel Y-Axis 1 Mendel Y-Axis 2 Mendel Y-Axis 3by dazed.dnc - Reprappers
I don't see Gcodes for that in the RepRapGCodes list, but it should be possible to add them. Depending on how often you want to switch it that could be little more than a minor inconvenience. In fact, if you just wanted it on at the start and off at the end, you could put it in skeinforge's start and end Gcode preface files. Skeinforge would automatically add the commands then. Getting more thanby dazed.dnc - General
There are several derivatives now, but you can find information about all the parts of a standard gen3 electronics set here. Or are you trying to buy one?by dazed.dnc - General
Your axis probably stops moving because your "fast feed rate" is set higher than your machine can physically achieve. It sounds like it stalls out or whatever you want to call it at operating speeds, but then as it decelerates it begins moving. Try setting your maximum feedrate lower untill you find the speed at which it moves.by dazed.dnc - RepRap Host
I assume it was held in with PTFE? To get any reasonable life out of it, you need to constrain it with band clamps or something similar (IE a tight fitting tube). This will keep it from bulging and forming a leak. Then you need to trap it between your extruder block and some kind of support structure. I thread a nut on the barrel after the PTFE is installed. Then I put on a washer with two extraby dazed.dnc - Reprappers