Quotebitslapper Hey I got the firmware thank you ! Somehow it was still too large for my printer -_- . I had to remove the SD card functionality to get it to upload. The firmware works though! Now I just need to get my inductive sensor to work -_- . Seems it's not getting power... The Arduino compiler shows that it comes in under 128k but still fails when verifying. Which version of theby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebitslapper Hey Bobyni/3DAngel could you send me your firmware? I sent you a message on thingiverse with my email address. Mine is just over 128kb so I would greatly appreciate one that will fit on my printer I though I sent it out this morning from my iphone..... It did not. just sent you...by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGatchaman You had a luck escape!! Before I built the printer I checked out the PSU and found one of the power pins hadn't been clipped off properly after soldering by who ever built the PSU. If that had shorted to the psu case I've got a feeling that it would have gone bang and my 3d printer dreams would have gone up in smoke. Will dig out the picture if I can find it..... I remember now Iby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebitslapper Hi All, I found this thread a few days ago and the amount of information and resources provided here are awesome! First of all, thank you to everyone who has contributed because I've gotten much further in the process to upgrade my firmware with the information provided here. TLDR version: I'm getting an error when trying to flash the firmware. I've included a picture of theby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteppdroid QuoteBobyni QuoteSteppdroid Hi, how burn New bootloader? After flash Repetier firmware 1.0,0 My board is blocked not flash any sketch, i get error: resp= 0x9d , Steppdroid, just a question, when you flashed your Melzi with other version of the Firmware, did you change a jumper pin toward the end of the Melzi? when flashing the firmware the reset jumper has to be installed. Hi thby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebitslapper Thank you for the responses. Are you saying I should burn the bootloader with a different programmer even though the boot loader burn worked? The issue I'm having is with uploading the firmware. I've already successfully burned the bootloader. Is there a known issue that even if the boot loader reported burning successfully it actually doesn't? What version of IDE are you suiby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Gatchamam, I had exactly the same screen when I powered up mine. Eventually found the issue. The back plate was pressing down due to uneven LCD mount, this was pressing down the contrast pot. Once I drilled a hole on top of th pot and adjust it, all came up correctly. As for your work, your boss might be right. This unit is not tested for an certification. Mine almost got on fire due to a deby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Info from: ......"The Bootloader At times, you may see references to the bootloader. This is a piece of code that is flashed to the Arduino chip before firmware, to allow basic communications. If you have a RepRapPro machine, this has been done for you. It is part of the Sanguino code, and it tells the chip how to talk to the USB port; without it, it doesn’t know how. Flashing firmware doesn’by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
how to burn bootloaderby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteppdroid Hi, how burn New bootloader? After flash Repetier firmware 1.0,0 My board is blocked not flash any sketch, i get error: resp= 0x9d , Steppdroid, just a question, when you flashed your Melzi with other version of the Firmware, did you change a jumper pin toward the end of the Melzi? when flashing the firmware the reset jumper has to be installed.by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGatchaman As requested a picture to describe what I was yapping on about. In the space between the heat sink and extruder was a ~1- 1.5mm gap rendering the heat sink and fan combo totally useless. After a bit of dremelling and some foil I think I fixed it. The printer is on stand-by waiting for some MR128 bearings to drop through the post so I can clamp down the tops of the z-axis. Zonestaby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
LCD contract too highby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFrans@France Just wired it to a Arduino board directly so you can write your own code, that will allow you to control the pulse length. It would also allow you to test if the EN must be high or low to enable the driver. I used a TB6560 without any problems. Hi Frans, would you be able to share your coding as you stated ..."you can write your own code, that will allow you to control the pulby Bobyni - Reprappers
Quoteglimpse79 In these days i had big trouble with my zonestar prusa, prints suddenly hangs after a variable number of hours (1 to 4), the problem happens either using serial and SD card. I thought it was caused by too much ambient heat but it happens even at night; any ideas? Thanks in advance I hope you have resolved your issue. if not, try adding a dedicated 12V fan and blow directly ontoby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Lovely to see so many people in here... after having near getting fire on my printer, I had to re-build my bed support. I upgraded my bed heating system via SSR Fortek DD25A I believe I might wired it wrongly and the SSR got shorted and was allowing the bed to be infinitely heating up.... Plus, I put a foam under the heated bed to get faster and higher temp. well, it melt the foam and the acrylby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedavidmilunic Awesome job on the RC5! I was a bit frustrated with the original firmware supplied by Zonestar. The autolevel never seemed to be right, particularly the very last corner that it would probe. It always reported it as 2mm higher than all the other spots (which couldn't be possible). ! You would probably need to change your probing grid to be away from that corner where you haveby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Check your firmware! You are using leadscrews for z, the step/ mm should be about 400. Most of firmware s were done using rods and set for 1000 , I think. I also saw some post talking about the new firmware, where you have to comment out the Z Max ,..... Something like that.... Cheersby Bobyni - Reprappers
Test without the sensor connected. Instead a multimeter connected and you shall see the values readings most likely it fried because of a short. Dbl check with your soldering and isolation types. Cheersby Bobyni - Reprappers
Saw your video. I am using Repetier and Marlin. Your speed is triple if mine, in the sense of how it goes to search its home. Dangerous for Z If anything happens to the probe/ limit sensor not sensing for any reason. I see that you use a graphic LCD, but did not see what firmware you loaded. The Z off set that I use, is located is located in/ from the EPROMs of the board. ( I am using Melzi).by Bobyni - Reprappers
Have you checked Z off set value?by Bobyni - Reprappers
You need to mention which host program you are using Check -Com port baud rate Both the Melzi and the host program must have the same baud rate in order to communicate I Asume the hamper for power source is correctly set Melzi's serial port chip is usually a fake one, so watch what version of driver You installed onto your PC Lastly, turn on your printer first and then your PC Once you lostby Bobyni - General
Aliexpress I think.by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Just saw that Zonestar put up on YouTube a hiw to install their auto leveling sensor Hope this helpsby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterealthor It would be a good lesson as a beginner to have some availability to learn about what you did wrong too. You will certainly get the same cold shower treatment if you continue to do this on other threads. So instead of getting offended because several people noticed your mishap and only doing worse because this is how this kind of events unfold when vanity is bigger than rationality,by Bobyni - General
Sadly, my bed support got "melt"down due to Printing in ABS! A combination of failure cased my H base acrylic softened and beyond repair..... Well, I have successfully "repair" it but due to the heating process, the acrylic got shrank and it is smaller than the aluminum plate.... Consequently, Unable to attach the hot bed. Now , trying to make a metal base to support my heated bed....by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
"We want" as 3d printer user DIYer bigginer like my self Any way, you felt offended, new too! It was a question, never intended for other thing. Just saw that board and wanted to know if any difference....., Anyway, my last post on "YOUR" thread. :-)by Bobyni - General
:-) Obviously, small minded people would say I am hijacking the thread. It is not my crap! Nor I know if it does work or not! ( and sorry for the typo for the link) I am just a guy who really want to learn about electronics as hobby and 3 D printing. It seems that, small minded people are everywhere. My apology to THE creator of the 32bits controller board of this thread! And wishing him alby Bobyni - General
Would the board like this one be what we want to have?by Bobyni - General
I added a 12 dc fan 6cm and it keeps all the stteper a drivers nice and cool/ warm. Try just have some old computer's CPU fan tag in to the same line for the cooling fan and it will work great!by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants