What thick is the wire in the power cord that plugs into the wall? My original Folger power cord had a copper bundle that looked like 5 thickness of hair in it. I used an old computer power cord that had much thicker wiring and all has worked well.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you contacted Folger Tech???by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a P3 frame in stainless that I am collecting the other parts for. The parts are waiting to be deburred and then I can start assembling them. I have the rods and hardware and a few electronic bits. I need motors, belts, pulleys, bearings, plastic bits and a power supply. Orballo will send the steel frames to the US for a reasonable price if someone wants one. I am sure you could getby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
It can but doesn't read the Prusa FAQ which is what this thread is about.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry, just quoting their webpage and recounting my personal experience. It worked with a version of Marlin I got from GITHUB but I didn't try to print with that version.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteShepp next thing is I bought the full graphics controller with the sd card slotand plugged it in. All I get out of that is a blue screen, if I flip the connectors it screams at me with a different colour screen. I have changed settings in marlin but it didn't make any difference. The Folger supplied software/firmware is a subset of the Marlin software/firmware and doesn't support the Fullby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
My experience is that the Folger supplied software is a subset of Marlin. I couldn't get my Full Graphics controller to work until I got the complete Marlin package from GITHUB. Another approach would be to check their FAQs on their website and failing that, send an email to Dan and ask if it is supported. Remember that it will not work on non metallic surfaces.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you powering the Mega board from the USB or thru the RAMPS board. Does your RAMPS have the D1 diode in place to power the Mega????by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I built the Prusa kit from Folger and it went well save for the endstop problem and when I wandered off into the Full Graphics Screen quagmire. They were honest enough to tell me that they didn't support that controller so I came to rely on this forum for support of that aspect. They informed me on the solution to the endstop issue. This was the cheapest complete kit I could find on the internby Ecky - Reprappers
QuoteDigital Dentist When you buy a $300 3D printer kit, you get exactly what you pay for- a $300 printer that works about as well as you should expect it to. Right on. You are buying what in French is called a "Passe temps" or translated literally into English a "Pass Time" and they are very good for that. And they are a great learning experience as well. If you are looking to buy a machinby Ecky - Reprappers
The more integrated and stiffer the sub systems become the more precise the next higher assembly needs to be. Take the case of the stepping motor and the integral lead screw. These lead screws will need to be installed and adjusted with a higher degree of parallelism than the 5 mm rod which could bend if necessary to follow the vertical guide rod. There could also be some movement at the bottoby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Deleted to save bandwidth and not waste any more time.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Beezer: Being a bike guy myself I appreciate those good solid real world applications for a 3D printer. Keep up the good work. I used CPU thermal paste between the heat sink and the block to improve the contact/heat transfer and also put a single stainless steel washer on each screw to make a heat break between the block and the motor. Motor doesn't over heat and the ABS extrudes well. I amby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Shepp: What is an RH? Does the printer work with the Folger firmware as supplied by them? Thanks.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
The Folger firmware doesn't support the FullGraphichs controller, only the small one as per the first of the FAQs on the site. Got to GitHub get the latest and greatest, modify all of the settings to match Folger and good luck getting it going. I managed to get the display going but never tried to get the display going and print directly from it. I had more pressing issues to take care of.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
heated bed. 110C, piece of glass with blue painter tape, Garnier hair spray. Works great. even better is if you put little rafts wherever there is a sharp outside corner. 5mm radius .2mm thick. 230C for the ABS.by Ecky - Reprappers
It's a Prusa I3.by Ecky - Reprappers
Thomas says to use an aluminium plate instead of glass. Just ordered mine from Ebay.by Ecky - Reprappers
This is my install with the original part.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 I just got the rev B kit and I'm having trouble with the end stop on the y axis. There are no bearing holders for the switch to contact like in the rev A kit. I can't seem to figure out a way to mount them, how did you guys do it? Check the Folger website FAQ. Basically it says to put the microswitch on the other end of the Y axis. Keep you finger on the emergency stop for the mby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have to set the bed height when the bed is hot or else the print fails because of too much clearance. The plastic balls up on the nozzle.by Ecky - Reprappers
I put lockwasher, split washer, on one side of the bolt sets and then I tighten only the side with the lockwasher and only till the lockwasher is flat.by Ecky - Reprappers
Quotechromecarz00 Do you mean reverse them? They are plugged in where they were said to in the manual If your responding to Ecky, I mean just like in the manual, step 44.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChrome What is that clack clack noise ???? The noise was a single "clack" that seemed to be at the same time as when you clicked on the screen.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Have a look here. In this case the supplier had his own tubing. The tubing I am suggesting is the large diameter, 1/8" ID, one. Car parts places will certainly have a rubber, neoprene, version as well. I am cautious about proximity sensors as they don't react to glass as well a metallic surface. Perhaps it would be best to kill 2 birds with one stone and buy the above mentioned kit and getby Ecky - Reprappers
Vanbot: Saw a guy selling aluminum hot beds and using some rubber/ silicone tubing as a spring. Go to a hobby shop that sells gas model airplane engines and buy a piece of large size silicone tubing and cut it to the length of the spring you want to buy. Or go online and order from Great Hobbies, Silicone tubing. I am suggesting silicone as it is heat resistant. Rubber would probably work asby Ecky - Reprappers
When I bought my printer I ordered ABS material because I wanted something strong. Well I later found out that ABS is tricky to print with.. I discovered that yes it is tricky. I was trying to print the "100 mm Calibration Block", Thingiverse # 386448. I tried glass with hairspray and then blue tape but the ends of my calibration piece curled up. I then went nuts and added some tabs/rafts onby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Chrome: What is that clack clack noise ???? I built mine with the Y endstop at the other end as per the Folger FAQ. My X is where your's is. My enstop connectors are as the build manual. X in the lowest position(1), skip one(2), Y is next in 3 and Z is in 5. My configuration.h is posted for your use if you like. It works but it may be mirror imaged. Still testing.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
chromecarz00: When I look down at my printer from the power supply/Ramps/ triangular frame end, I see: a. my power supply and X axis motor is on the left b. my ramps is on the right c. the Y motor is between them. d. endstops are on left side closest to me. Attached is a picture of it. Also attached is the configuration.h file for that runs it at the moment. That should get you goiby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Additional info. When I put my endstop at the back I had the carriage going the wrong way, i.e. toward the Y plus. Being a mechanical guy I simply reversed the connector for the motor and it went the correct way. Today now edited the following line: #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orcaby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants