stock pololu will go up to 1.25v, turn it up until the stepper starts making noise then back it off till it is gone.by lunarkingdom - Printing
Back to the OP's question, I had a similar issue, I was very much not happy with how the hot end was held on by the 2 different sized threaded holes. The smaller one went first, when it did I prolonged it by using a longer screw but that eventually went as well, then I was relying on the larger diameter bolt alone when, it also stripped! I was mad, but it is a crappy design which sucks as the resby lunarkingdom - General
well I completed step one toward a flatter bed, it is the ghetto way but it is cool to see what kind of variance I am getting, I printed out and installed the components for auto bed leveling and I did a couple prints like this and I have to say even though my bed is not level this is my best looking first layer so far, once I get the bed flatter with new components this thing is going to rock. Iby lunarkingdom - General
A) I do not like the idea of using kapton tape, I used it before I went to glass and it was too much work, always geting ripped up from removal of prints. B ) ABS prints and adheres to glass via hairspray superbly and repeatably. C) I have 10 pieces of glass already D) I can swap glass pieces and print back to back before the nozzle and bed cool down E) I can place finished prints in the freby lunarkingdom - General
Have you tried turning the print speeds up in slic3r?by lunarkingdom - General
if the arduino shield board is plugged in to the ramps 2.4 board all you have to power are the 2 positives and 2 negatives on the ramps board.by lunarkingdom - General
Quotecdru Quotethe_digital_dentist build a solid printer that's able to maintain the level setting throughout the range of motion of the X and Y axesSo what you're saying is that using a pink granite surface plate with a tolerance of .000050" might be overkill with my printer made from threaded rod and cheap Chinese linear bearings on drill rod with a hobbed bolt extruder made with a tap with a hby lunarkingdom - General
Ahh thanks digital dentist, I was wondering as well.by lunarkingdom - General
Yikes we are going off topic, the purpose of this thread was to hear from people who have achieved acceptable flatness as in under 5 thousandths of an inch of their heatbed, I was hoping to gain some clarity for all of the people starting out so we all do not have to reinvent the wheel over and over again when it has already been invented.by lunarkingdom - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Cast aluminum tooling plate comes milled flat. It doesn't have the same crystal structure as extruded plate so it doesn't warp appreciably when heated Exactly! As far as speed of the heatbed I put my new 17HS19-1684S nema17's on x and y and upgraded my pololu's for those axis to Think3DPrint3D Ice Blue edition's and achieved 100mm/sec last night with my 5 pound bed so Iby lunarkingdom - General
Sounds like voodoo style to me, no offense but for example my new approach will be to use 1/4" Aluminum Cast Tool & Jig Plate that is 12 x 12 x .25 inches (it is in the mail as we speak) which has flatness of .001 or less to start with, I will then add my PCB then my glass on top of the PCB and measure it and see what I come up with. If it is within say .003 or less I will then try and add myby lunarkingdom - General
yeah .010" or inches, it is a HUGE problem for a lot of us, I hear so much how flat peoples heatbeds are but never hear the how they did it part, it would be nice to know all the different methods people have used, pro's and cons etc.by lunarkingdom - General
Quotecdru QuotelunarkingdomThey both have less than 1 thousandth of an inch in flatness, this is amazing to me, especially since I have been struggling to figure out how to achieve this very same thing. Are you talking about being flat, or being level? There's a difference and it's the latter that's usually the bigger issue. I am talking about flatness, being level is another issue but for thisby lunarkingdom - General
Hey, I have been struggling with my newly built printer hotbed flatness, from another thread I have learned 2 members use 1/4" Aluminum Cast Tool & Jig Plate which is very flat, one of which uses a kapton tape heater on the underside and kapton tape on the top, the other which uses the same 1/4" Aluminum Cast Tool & Jig Plate stacked under a PCB and a plate of glass on top. They both haveby lunarkingdom - General
yeah 97 is close to 100, you just have to count how many times your little gear turns for 1 rev of your big gear and times it by 100 to get close, then calibrate with a line print or whatever.by lunarkingdom - General
Thought I would add, I had to change mine for the same reason but for ditching my old cheap direct drive unit going to a geared 5 to 1 unit, my steps ended up being 495 on my old machine and 500 on my newer one, it used to be set to like 95ish.by lunarkingdom - General
This one: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.58,79.6,4055.27,97.56} the numbers represent (X, Y, Z, E) so you need to change the fourth number to make a change to your extruder steps per unit.by lunarkingdom - General
Before you try that look for the potentiometer and turn down the contrast on your lcd board just in case to see if that helps otherwise follow my instructions above.by lunarkingdom - General
you need to edit your firmware, most people use marlin: then they use arduino software to open, edit and flash it to their arduino: search the topic on this board and a bunch of threads will come up with more details.by lunarkingdom - General
you can use the powered output from your ramps board to switch a relay and use a second power supply to heat your heatbed, your warm up times will be a lot shorter, whe I used one power supply it would take 15 minutes or more to reach 100c, once I went to two power supplies it takes 3-4 minutes now and that is for a 12 inch by 12 inch bed.by lunarkingdom - General
Digital dentist, I am successfully printing 4-5 inch tall parts with no delamination, look at every white (clear) part in the printer above, they were printed on my old reprap prusa i3 lexan frame printer in a 5 sided box that is about 10-12sqft inside, I said 5 sided as I keep the door open in front or it gets too hot inside. I run my ABS at 105 c first layer and 100c for the rest on the heatbedby lunarkingdom - General
Digital dentist, how are you heating your aluminum plate, with a PCB under it?by lunarkingdom - General
digital dentist, I am only using ABS on this printer as it is the only material strong enough for my needs and I do not plan on using anything else on it, my old 8x8 prusa i3 is about to be rebuilt to take ABS and ninjaflex but I will not be doing that until I find a hotbed solution that works for this 12x12 printer, thus this thread. I am leaning hevily toward using glass as I spent a considerabby lunarkingdom - General
I thought I would add I have been using 1/8 thick glass mat to stop the heat from escaping below the pcb board, do you have any insulative material under your PCB? If not, does the aluminum get hot and does it affect your heatup time?by lunarkingdom - General
OK I just bought one of those 12x12 tooling plates you linked, thanks again for that.by lunarkingdom - General
Airkuld, what do you use to keep your stack together? I am using binder clips and I can not think of anything else, is there any way you could take a picture of your stacked heatbed as it sits today and post a picture or two of it so I can wrap my head around what you have done? I spent the entire weekend (over 20 hours) trying to figure out how to get it flat and did not come to any conclusion oby lunarkingdom - General
the glass is warped but I am pretty sure it is because of the clips, it is not the x axis, rexroth 20mm rail does not bend unless you really want it to. The glass seems to be lower in the center, I have 10 piece of glass, this is the second one I have tried and it bows the same as the first I would try all 10 if I thought it would help but the fact that the clips are pushing down on the top surfaby lunarkingdom - General
You have to make sure the nozzle and the throat are seated firmly together inside the heater block, it will help if you do not bottom out the nozzle when you screw it into the bottom of the heater block, that way you can snug it down with a 6mm wrench tight to the throat, also make sure the PTFE in the throat is trimmed flush with the non tapered opening and that that end is also toward the nozzlby lunarkingdom - General