Well I have tried everything to get my bed leveled but the center and edges are not the same, I even tried spacers in the middle to shim it to no avail nearest I can figure is the clips warp the glass (I have one on each corner) and I can not figure out a better way to attach the bed:by lunarkingdom - General
Auto bed leveling, can I change it to use more than 4 corners to level the bed? Like could I use a grid of 9 points so it better maps the bed? Any better ways to get my bed level? It is warped!by lunarkingdom - General
Thank you!by lunarkingdom - General
need new housings and liners, bent and broke 2, stripped threads on another, only one left and want to buy spares. Know where I can get any? A roll of liner would be good as well but so far most of the liner I bought for 1.75mm were the wrong size, I would like exact size.by lunarkingdom - General
Does not have to be 30mm long but does have to be all thread no cut out parts like this but for 3.0mm filament:by lunarkingdom - General
Hey guys, Where can I get m6 x 30mm throat in 3.0mm with ptfe liner? The ones that came with my E3D's are all toast, I am on my last one and I really need a bag of 10 or 20 of them, can anyone give me a link or links to find some?by lunarkingdom - General
QuoteDustOne coil goes on pins 1 and 2 (2b and 2a) and the second coil to pins 3 and 4 (1a 1b) Ahh for some reason I paired the A's abd B's instead of the 1'2 and 2's, thanks!!by lunarkingdom - General
Hey guys I bought some new nema 17's and they only included these images: Which ones go to 1A, 1B, 2A and 2B? I hooked them up like this: Black - 1A Green - 2A Red - 2B Blue - 1B And my motors vibrate back and forth when I try to use them. Last time I had this problem I just messed around until I got it right, this time I want to understand what is right, can you help me with this pleaseby lunarkingdom - General
you need if not already have it a funnel to direct the air only at the nozzle, lots of them on thingiverse, you can also I believe change how fast the fan runs in slic3r so just turn it down some until you do not have a problem.by lunarkingdom - General
you are probably going to want to get marlin firmware: and to modify it and upload it to your board get the arduino software from their site:by lunarkingdom - General
Quotekronikabis QuoteViper97 You need to GitHub this! Yes please! What would I put on github, my marlin configuration? It is not that different from the one you download. I have never used github before.by lunarkingdom - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist You can try playing with the acceleration and jerk settings, but you may have to slow things down quite a bit to get it to print reliably. I use NEMA-23 motors in all axes. A massive bed running at "normal" speeds/accelerations requires a lot more torque than you can get from most NEMA-17 motors. You can run a lot of NEMA-23 motors using the RAMPS board- I was using itby lunarkingdom - General
buy from china and get a lot of spares, I am still waiting for mine but I got enough for like 3 printers lolby lunarkingdom - Reprappers
QuoteVanbot Quotewidespreaddeadhead The hotend they supply isn't very reliable. I've heard and known this for a bit but was hoping to not have to drop some $$$ on a better hotend, even though no more jams would make it worth it. I assumed someone out there would have designed a geared version of this Folger extruder. The Folger kit supplies tiny 2.6 kg/cm steppers so gearing it down for more torby lunarkingdom - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotelunarkingdom you might try using a glass bed topper, I use one on both my printers, it is far more level than most hot beds I print on glass. Do you have any good tips for cleaning the nozzle? Acetone work well? I buy them in bulk on ebay for like 3 dollars each, have not cleaned one yet but I must say the only reason I change them is to change nozzle size, I have noby lunarkingdom - Reprappers
you might try using a glass bed topper, I use one on both my printers, it is far more level than most hot bedsby lunarkingdom - Reprappers
first, get an E3D style hot end, if you are using a direct drive extruder, get at the very least a geared extruder. Clicking can be caused by a few things and you named most but one important one is your current to the extruder, when I had a direct drive like you get in a printer kit I had to do this, there are all kinds of threads on this forum about changing pololu curent so search and read up,by lunarkingdom - Reprappers
load it to thingiverse or take a picture of it when you have it open then post it to photobucket and share the link hereby lunarkingdom - General
You are all welcome to steal any of my ideas that you want but since I thought of it first (correct me if I am wrong) so if anyone wants to use my picatinny rail quick release design can it please be referred to as the "lunarkingdom" mounting system? I hope it is not too much to ask ;-) and it is adjustable just like a rifle scope is you can clamp it up and down abby lunarkingdom - General
I will post pics tonight as soon as I can ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
Quoteepicepee Is the bed on just one linear guide? If so, I'm surprised it stays flat. I have to admit I was highly skeptical, my boss has an awesome printer that is the same size as mine and was super sure it would be fine with one bearing with 2% preload, once I put it together and applied pressure to the corners with a indicator it moved a couple tenths of a thau max and that was with my biby lunarkingdom - General
buy another power supply and a 12v switch then use the output of the printer board for the hotbed to trigger an output from the second power supply, this cut my heat up time from 15 minutes to 3 minutes.by lunarkingdom - General
if you are designing your own parts you can do the ghetto method and design them around the problem by removing 0.5mm from the edges, sucks but should work.by lunarkingdom - Printing
it might be inches to mm problem, try turning up the scale on the item to 25.4 and see if it looks right.by lunarkingdom - Reprappers
Ramps 1.4 supports dual extruders, is pretty solid and affordable setup and there are hundreds of thousands of them out there, I got a ramps 1.4 board, an arduino shield board, 5 pololu's and a large lcd screen from china for 54.00 usd shipped to my door. That is what I would do, the firmware marlin is free and supports auto bed leveling as well if you are into it.by lunarkingdom - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Quotelunarkingdom thanks dc42, just pulled the trigger on 5 of the 17HS19-1684S (I like spares) thanks for the advice!! Did you really need 5, if it is only the Y axis that is giving the problem? You could change just that motor. btw when you get your new drivers, be aware that a given voltage on the pot wiper will give you more current with the ice blue stepsticks than with your oldby lunarkingdom - General
"I have to individually set the esteps/mm everytime I print something new" you have to change the firmware once you get the right number download arduino software here to access the firmware and change the esteps/mm settings then you will never have to change it again.by lunarkingdom - Printing
thanks dc42, just pulled the trigger on 5 of the 17HS19-1684S (I like spares) thanks for the advice!!by lunarkingdom - General
yeah I would agree except I am having zero trouble on the x axis on the same preload setup, it is just 2 pounds lighter is all. I just might be satisfied at 70-90mm/sec as I am running out of real estate on this build. I want to keep it simple at this point I already got crazy to power the bed with a separate power supply. I just need a little more input on the 60mm nema 17's and however fast I cby lunarkingdom - General
I want to pull the trigger on some 60mm nema 17 motors but I need some feedback first, the ice blue pololu modules can run up to 2 amps so do I need to get some 60mm nema 17's that run at or below 2 amps? Looking at these now they are 1.8 amps:by lunarkingdom - General