here is the info from the side of the stepper motor: 17H53413L19P1-X 1.8 deg 1.3A 1409290805by lunarkingdom - General
if you are talking about direct drive ones that come with 500 dollar printers my opinion is that they suck and were designed to print just good enough to call the kit complete as it goes out the door to your home. I suggest an upgrade to both 3mm filament and a bulldog xl extruder, furthermore I suggest an E3D style hotend with fan and fan mount, they can be found on ebay for around 25 dollars. Mby lunarkingdom - Reprappers
hey elwood, 123d is free ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
ok I have 3 ice blue's on the way, going to look at my model number on the nema 17 when I get home, chinese origin so not expecting much, whatever the best powered nema 17 is for the ice blue 2a output let me know and I will buy a couple immediately. The stepper is driving cool at 1.25vby lunarkingdom - General
I am not sure, it is the shortest they come at around 1.5 inches thick, the rexroth bearing block has 2% preload as well. What is the largest nema 17 (longest) available off the shelf? Can my ramps 1.4 and poololu board push it?by lunarkingdom - General
My bed plate is 3.5 lbs as it is aluminum 6061 12x12x.25 inches, I am wondering if I should try and hog it out but I do not want to loose flatness. The belt is not slipping but the nema 17 is losing position in y axis at anything over 40mm/sec but I believe as you mentioned the "normal" speeds/accelerations are what are actually going too fast and by lowering them to the print speed I should be aby lunarkingdom - General
by lunarkingdom - General
new build and my heat bed is heavy, thin nema 17 looses track of where it is on fast moves, are there any alternatives like the longer nema 17's? running ramps 1.4 with standard pololu modules max 1.25v each. Suggestions welcome!by lunarkingdom - General
off the top of my head: 16 feet of 50x50mm extrusion (used ebay) 170.00 corner fasteners bought 24pcs used 14 151.00 for 24 mounting bolts/T nuts 24 pcs 30.00 ebay 8mm rod used 4x 500mm 30.00 ebay 8mm linear bearings round 4pcs 24.00 ebay bosch/rexroth 20mm rail 15 inches x 2 200.00 value gifted from my boss bosch/rexroth 20mm bearing blocks with 2% preload listed at 80.00 each (used 2) gift froby lunarkingdom - General
Awesome thanks!by lunarkingdom - General
new lighting:by lunarkingdom - General
my new build looses where it is at if I go to fast in Y axis, I have been using the "sounds good moves good" method of tuning the current but have to do it more precise, I have a volt meter, how do I optimize the current on these bad boys?by lunarkingdom - General
by lunarkingdom - General
what code do you use to turn the hotbed off? slic3r turns off the hotend in the g-code but the hotbed stays on until I turn it off manually. to add to the thread, this is my only concern when printing is complete and I am not there. I leave the filament in the extruder and just turn the power off whenever I get back to the finished print.by lunarkingdom - General
Thought I would add I was stripping fiament with the bulldog xl using 1.75mm as the drive mechanism is 3mmby lunarkingdom - General
I will chime in on the e3d style, get one with a clip on fan, they keep the heat where it needs to be. I also have a bulldog xl, do your self a favor if you have not allready and upgrade to 3mm filament as the bulldog xl is set up for it, remember to order the 3mm e3d as well, the extruder tip also needs to be for 3mm but you can drill out the 1.75mm ones just remember to drill it out slightly smby lunarkingdom - General
I use it all the time, save every 5 min though there are a couple of bugs like if you click measure twice you get the hourglass of death but it is super solid, it has taken me a couple of months to become a lot better at using it but I was designing parts from day one. One tip I have for you is to run your .stl files through this before using slicer to generate g-code: it repairs any mistakesby lunarkingdom - General
try disabling the endstops in the firmware (marlin) and see if this helps it move, I am still building mine and have no endstops installed yet so the connections were seen as open as the limit switches are set to closed in marlin unless you changed them.by lunarkingdom - General
link to slic3r documentationby lunarkingdom - General
Nice! I was looking at camera mounts for a while then I realized I use picatinny quick releasees like the one I posted above on my ak-47 and it never looses zero and for like 25 dollars I had an excellent solution, I bought 2 of each so I can have them on both of my printers and I can swap heads in under a minute including the wiring. Post pictures of how it comes out, I will be posting pics of mby lunarkingdom - General
I have been doing the connector method for a few months and am about 2 weeks from completing my extruded aluminum 300x300x300mm printer, all I have left is to finish the clip on mount, I am using a picatinny rail quick release: on top of a picatinny rail: to maintain zero, you can use any connector you like, I would not use ribbon cable as the hotend uses a lot of amps, I use molex cablesby lunarkingdom - General
you cant go wrong with Arduino/RAMPS + driver modules + LCD panel and a copy of the free marlin firmware, takes a while to figure out the settings but you can proudly say you made everything for it and for 50 bucks your done except for cabling and stepper motors.by lunarkingdom - General
wow what a crappy greedy company making you use their proprietary cartridges and what a greedy vendor using a hush hush proprietary flashed chip, here is an idea, buy a 40 dollar kit with a ramps 1.4 board, an arduino shield board and an lcd board with print from usb capability then download and configure marlin to run your printer so you can use whatever you want.by lunarkingdom - General
The 2 red led's are working now too.by lunarkingdom - General
Got home and took a close look at the mosfets and the big yellow rectangular square fuse things forget what they are called and they had crappy soldering jobs so I reflowed them with a little flux and some solder and BAM all is well in ramps board town ;-) thank you guys for the help!!!!by lunarkingdom - General
I did not see any led's on the board illuminate when it was on, my stepper motors all work though if that means anything, cold solder joint on the 3 mosfets are suspect then? I will chase it down with the multimeter when I get home in a few hours, thanks!by lunarkingdom - General
I have a dumb question, can ground be shorted out? I would think it is more likely a broken trace or cold solder joint, either way if I can not find it it hurts nothing to put a jumper on the backside of the board from where ground comes into the board as long as it will not get into the way of the arduino shield board connections. Either way, I am glad this will be fixed once I work on it this eby lunarkingdom - General
Quotecdru What's the voltage from the + terminal from either the hot end or heated bed to the - terminal of the main power connectors? BINGO! This man deserves a medal, the positive sides of both the hotend and hotbed are working, it is the negative side that does not. Anyone know what to look for on the ramps board if the negative is not working on this connector?by lunarkingdom - General
Quotealan richard Quotecat.farmer Does the led come on when you set the heatbed/ hotend.? I did not put led's on the hotbed but how many led's light up with 0 volts anyways? There are no led's on the hotend.by lunarkingdom - General
Dang, I just tried the hotend, same deal, I read 12.06 volts on both ramps inputs (green plug) and 0 volts on both hotbed and hotend outputs. I have tried activating them in pronterface as well as with the lcd screen controller, they both set the temp to whatever I set it to but the ramps board does not output any voltage.by lunarkingdom - General