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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: Can't get DARK Grey filament - 4 years ago
I have used this one, and it is quite dark: . If you read the amazon comments, it mentions the pantone color is 2336 C, so you could use that to check if it meets your needs.by animoose - Printing
Re: Which repository for STLs - 5 years ago
@Ohmarinus - thanks for the link to the video, that was very useful! @the_digital_dentist - I've been printing for about 4 years and most of what I print is my own designs or modifications I've made to other people's design. I find Thingiverse useful for three things: complex models by other people which are beyond my own design abilities (example: ); browsing existing designs when I am thinkingby animoose - General
Which repository for STLs - 5 years ago
There have been many problems with Thingiverse recently from being very slow to failing to upload objects. I know there are plenty of alternatives (https://all3dp.com/1/free-stl-files-3d-printer-models-3d-print-files-stl-download/ is one list), and I was wondering which stand out as the best. I'm thinking of downloading all my past projects and putting them somewhere else, and then using it for nby animoose - General
GT2 belt types - 6 years ago
Is there any reason to prefer fibreglass core GT2 belts over steel wire core ones, or the other way round? Also, do belts tend to deteriorate over time? The belts in my CoreXY printer seem to have become much slacker over a short period of time, but I can't see any other mechanical reason for this. This is on a printer I haven't used much for a while.by animoose - General
Re: Folger Tech Prusa i3 2020 Review - 6 years ago
I haven't used my FT2020 for a while now, but I tried quite a wide range of filaments on it. Take a look at . I did replace the original extruder with an E3D Lite, and added a cooling fan. The fan helps a lot with PLA. After PLA, I recommend PETG as a good next filament to try, and note that even with PLA there is a lot of variation from one supplier to another.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Smoothieboard alternative - 7 years ago
Yes, you can set the stepper current in software on the Azteeg.by animoose - Smoothie
Re: Smoothieboard alternative - 7 years ago
Some people have found it OK. Mine never worked properly. It doesn't obey the open source terms, and so the Smoothieware authors may choose not to provide support (not saying they won't, just that they might not). If you can afford a little more but still don't want to pay the full price of a smoothieboard, consider the Azteeg X5 mini.by animoose - Smoothie
Re: Recommendations for linear guides - 7 years ago
Thank you for that detailed reply. As you surmised, it's not specifically MGN12s that I want - that's just a term that I have often seen mentioned. I will certainly take a look at ebay and at the manufacturers you mentioned.by animoose - Mechanics
Recommendations for linear guides - 7 years ago
Hi, can anyone recommend good vendors for linear guides (MGN12, probably). There are of course many sellers on ebay, amazon, aliexpress, etc, but some reviews that I've seen question the quality, and I'd rather pay more to good something that works well. In addition, if anyone had pointers to design guidance for using them, I'd appreciate it. I'm at the stage of just noodling around to learn morby animoose - Mechanics
Re: [Poll] Bed mounted on springs ( prusa-style ) ? - 7 years ago
I'll be interested to hear your experiences with LokBuild. I have been using PrintBite and find it really good, with one minor criticism: you have to wait until it cools down before removing the print. As my heated bed takes a while to heat it, it means the time between prints is longer. As I understand it, LokBuild's adhesion does not depend on temperature.by animoose - CoreXY Machines
Re: Changing to mains-powered heatbeds - 7 years ago
Have you considered this: ? It's a PCB heater rather than an Al plate, but otherwise looks good. I have bought one, but have yet to set it up.by animoose - General
Re: RAMPS and CoreXY - 7 years ago
I initially used RAMPS with my Eclips3D and had no problems with it. I don't recall how fast I ran it, but it wasn't very slow. I've since switched to an Azteeg X5 which is definitely quieter and smoother.by animoose - CoreXY Machines
Re: Software to make a simple box? - 7 years ago
I agree on using customizers on Thingiverse. My own is here: . If you want to design it directly, a good starting point is to think in terms of boolean operations. I don't know Tinkercad, but in Blender you can do something like creating a cuboid for the basic outer size of the box, then taking the boolean difference with a smaller cuboid to carve out the space in the middle.by animoose - General
Re: New print surface material? - 7 years ago
QuoteOrigamib I've found good results for nGen with 90c first layer, then 80. Nozzle temps at 250/230c. Cooling fan should be as low as possible as nGen does warp a little, especially on larger pieces. Thanks, I tried 235/85 and that is working quite well. 235/80 gave me a lot of warping.by animoose - General
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago
Some experiments I did on hole size a while back: .by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Titan tension adjust - 7 years ago
Thanks for the comment. I'll try cranking the tension up a bit. It seemed counterintuitive to me (more tension = pushing it harder against the gear, hence more grinding), but I know intuition is not always a good guide. In this particular case, it seems like raising the temperature solved the problem, as I did a successful print in the time between sending the message and seeing your reply. (It'sby animoose - Printing
Titan tension adjust - 7 years ago
I'm looking for guidelines on how to set the tension adjust on an E3D Titan. Right now I have it at the least tension (thumbscrew fully clockwise), and I've left it there as I have no understanding of how I should set it or what the consequences of changing the tension would be. I switched to the Titan a week ago, and have mostly had good prints, but on one object (http://www.thingiverse.com/thinby animoose - Printing
Re: New print surface material? - 7 years ago
I am running a print cooling fan. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give them a go. BTW, I've been using PrintBite with PLA (205 on 80 works well), PETG and some other materials and it's excellent. It's made a huge difference in the quality of my prints and how easy it is to make them work.by animoose - General
Re: New print surface material? - 7 years ago
Has anyone had luck with nGen on PrintBite? I haven't found settings that work well. It does stick, but not very firmly, and so print sometimes end up peeling away from the print bed after a while. I am using 220C on a bed at 80C, but have varied both values up and down from this.by animoose - General
Re: What do you reckon? - 7 years ago
If we were to go with the parallel processing route, something like XMOS seems like a nice option for this. It has parallel cores with timestamped inputs and outputs for precise synchronization. I've played with their (super cheap) startkit, and it works well with a nice programming model. Some people regard it as the spiritual successor to the transputer. And on the subject of other operating sby animoose - General
Re: Erratic Temperatures - 7 years ago
Check the thermistor and its wiring. It looks a little similar to something I reported recently: .by animoose - Printing
Re: A problem with cube corners... but not the usual one - 7 years ago
The Gcode looks good when examined in a viewer. I was thinking it might be acceleration, but the setting I use for this are the same ones I have used for a long time. I did upgrade to a new version of Smoothieware about a month back, and the new config had a lower value for the motor current than I was using before, but I've put this back to how it was. Besides, I am 99% sure I've had good printsby animoose - Printing
Re: A problem with cube corners... but not the usual one - 7 years ago
In case it makes it clearer, here is a sketch of what the prints look like from above.by animoose - Printing
A problem with cube corners... but not the usual one - 7 years ago
I've been having a problem with the corners on a 10mm test cube. My printer (an Eclips3D coreXY) has worked reliably for a while and this problem has appeared in just the last few days. The common problem people see with cube corners is that they stick out a bit. I have two other problems: on two of the corners, there is a slight inset in the side of the wall just before the corner (where "beforeby animoose - Printing
A problem and a solution - 7 years ago
The last few days I've had really horrible prints after months of my printer working well. Then things got worse, with emergency halts happening from time to time. It occurred to me to look at the temperature graph in Repetier, which looked like this: . This only happened when the printer was actually doing a print: if I set the temperature and let it stand, it was completely stable. Replacing thby animoose - Printing
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago
Quotemarkag I just ordered one of these printers with the Folgertech black Friday coupon. I'm looking forward to receiving it and starting the build. I'm a manufacturing engineer by trade, and an very comfortable with assembling things, so I'm not expecting to have issues with the build. But, I know that the are always little things that pop up here and there. What drew me to this kit specificaby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Is filabits still in business? - 7 years ago
Does anyone know if filabits.com is still in business? I sent them an order three weeks ago, and they haven't shipped it or replied to any follow up emails. They did, however, accept the payment.by animoose - General
Re: Anyone use PETG on PrinteBite? - 7 years ago
I have used PETG on PrintBite with good success - no warping and it releases well when the bed cools. I use 220C on 80C. This was with MakerGeeks white PETG.by animoose - General
Re: can you overcool an e3d v6? - 7 years ago
As others have said, check the temperature readings. I did have problems with the layer cooling fan (in an Eclips3D) blasting extra air onto my E3D and the temperatire dropping as a result. I fix this by limiting the max fan percent in the slicer settings, and by wrapping ceramic tape round the heater block. I later replaced this by an E3D sock - these are awesome, BTW.by animoose - General
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago
Quotemfisch No, I didn't tin them. Tinning the wires is considered to be a bad idea. See . The best approach is to crimp a ferrule on to the end. I've never had any problems with this myself, though I was fortunate to catch a bad connection by noticing a smell from the insulation (which was starting to melt) and a very hot connector.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants