Quotewatlooazn awesome I will try this, thanks! Another question is shouldn't the Y endstop be placed near the front of the printer? The manual says to place it at the rear. But from my understanding, if we want the home position of the extruder to be at the back right of the bed, then the y endstop should be at the front so the heatbed can move foward and for the extruder to be at it's back rigby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Alright guys my bad, I didn't read the previous posts, thanks for your help. Now regarding my Z motors Issues: I found out that the Z motors work perfectly fine after connecting them to the x and y ports. Also, the reason they were vibrating and not moving before was because my threaded rods weren't installed properly. But now I have a new issue: It takes my z axis approx 30by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotewatlooazn After some trouble shooting I confirmed that theres something wrong with my z motors. Ill just repost what I wrote before: My two z motors vibrate but don't turn. I'm guessing this is because the stepper motor coils are wired to the wrong pair of wires? (Newbie to electronics here) So after determining which coil goes to which pair, do I just cut off the connector,by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewowzerz Hello Forum! I'm new to the 3D printing scene and just finished the build of my FT 2020 last week. Once I "finished" the build I went over all the electrical connections to be sure they were all correct at least twice prior to ever plugging the unit into the USB or wall outlet. All the connections as listed in the build manual are correct. The configuration given by FT on the Gooby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe G28 question. Can I change the Z-probe location on the build bed when running G28? Currently it is Z-probing in the center of the bed, I'd like to have it probe for Z- 0.0 at X-0.0 Y-200.0...is that possible!?!? I've search the interwebs the last couple days with no luck... Thanks, Sonny Those settings can be changed in the start gcode of your slicer or host.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe I think I've asked this before, but is anyone running Repetier Firmware on these printers? Yes, I changed from marlin to repetier a couple of months ago. So far it has mostly worked to my liking, accept that it only offer the three point method for auto bed leveling. Mach, Very Cool...I'mby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe I think I've asked this before, but is anyone running Repetier Firmware on these printers? Yes, I changed from marlin to repetier a couple of months ago. So far it has mostly worked to my liking, accept that it only offer the three point method for auto bed leveling. Mach, Very Cool...I'm running a E3D Cyclops and they recommendby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn My two z motors vibrate but don't turn. I'm guessing this is because the stepper motor coils are wired to the wrong pair of wires? (Newbie to electronics here) So after determining which coil goes to which pair, do I just cut off the connector, re-arrange the pair, and attach crimps, and then the connector? Or would there be another way to re-arrange the pair of wires. How do I gby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteMach Quotesonnylowe I think I've asked this before, but is anyone running Repetier Firmware on these printers? Yes, I changed from marlin to repetier a couple of months ago. So far it has mostly worked to my liking, accept that it only offer the three point method for auto bed leveling. Mach, Very Cool...I'm running a E3D Cyclops and they recommend using Repetier Firmwareby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedommarconi Hey guys, I've had this printer for a while now, and learned the ins and outs of it, but never really messed with the firmware. I recently put on a second extruder, as well as another stepper driver on the RAMPS. Mechanically, everything is ready to go with my second extruder. Now, I just need to know what lines to change in configuration.h (or any other parts of the firmware)by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe I think I've asked this before, but is anyone running Repetier Firmware on these printers? Yes, I changed from marlin to repetier a couple of months ago. So far it has mostly worked to my liking, accept that it only offer the three point method for auto bed leveling.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn My top 2 motors turn but the threaded rod doesn't move, it gets stuck and starts stuttering as if something is stopping it, so i was wondering if I needed more current. They turn but the threaded rod doesn't move? I am guessing you mean they turn when they are not connected to the threaded rods through the couplings, right? If that is the case, did you disconnect the motors fromby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem QuoteMach Quoteelkayem QuoteMach Quoteelkayem What aluminum print bed are folks using with an inductive sensor? Is there an aluminum surface that can be added to the top of the MK2B heat bed (instead of the glass), or are people replacing the heat bed altogether? I'm going to add the proximity sensor. Tired of constantly adjusting my print bed alignment... I just use a 8x8 inchby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem QuoteMach Quoteelkayem What aluminum print bed are folks using with an inductive sensor? Is there an aluminum surface that can be added to the top of the MK2B heat bed (instead of the glass), or are people replacing the heat bed altogether? I'm going to add the proximity sensor. Tired of constantly adjusting my print bed alignment... I just use a 8x8 inch aluminum plate I got foby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Thanks so much for your help. I tried doing what you told me, got a dmm, followed exact instructions, set it to continuity tester mode, touched the 2 leads together and heard a beep meaning the dmm is working, but I get no results when I touch each of the probes to each wire and the other probe to the the prongs. I only get a result when I switch the mode from continuity to resistby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem What aluminum print bed are folks using with an inductive sensor? Is there an aluminum surface that can be added to the top of the MK2B heat bed (instead of the glass), or are people replacing the heat bed altogether? I'm going to add the proximity sensor. Tired of constantly adjusting my print bed alignment... I just use a 8x8 inch aluminum plate I got for 13 bucks. This oneby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn New to electrical stuff, can you help me out? So how would I use the multimeter? Where should I put the black and red wires of the multimeter onto the green,black, and white wires of the power supply to find out which is neutral, hot, and ground? Sorry for the noob question, appreciate the help! No problem, 3d printer building is one way to learn such things You would use the dmby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn In the picture attached can someone tell me why the Z carriage assembly motor has it's wire with the red most wire on the left while all other motors had their wires with the green most wire on the left? Just trying to make sure my polarities are right The group of wires that are circled in the picture are the X axis wires, not the Z. The Z axis wires for both motors go under theby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefoul_owl QuoteMach Quotefoul_owl QuoteMach Quotefoul_owl Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6? This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder. If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold! I do not use 3mm filament, but the printer can definiteby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefoul_owl QuoteMach Quotefoul_owl Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6? This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder. If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold! I do not use 3mm filament, but the printer can definitely undergo the slight moby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefoul_owl Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6? This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder. If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold! I do not use 3mm filament, but the printer can definitely undergo the slight modification to suit the uby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMach . My extruder motor was adjusted the same way, but with some tweeking until the printer was printing and not skipping steps. Probably a silly question, Mach, but how can you tell if your printer is skipping steps? You can hear the motor make a knock sound when it skips as it tries to move. If it happens to the X or Y axis during printing, you will see the print become iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe X-Carriage Update: Since my Proximity Sensor decided to take a dump, I in turn decided to start the X-Carriage install. I can honestly say, this install went in much easier and with far less "ut oh" moments. So far everything has fit well, although I have found many alignment issues with my old Z-Axis setup. I think I have corrected them all and will complete the assembly once Iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Hey guys, just finished the mech+electrical build, about to start the config guide and really need any help I can get. Any tips on any configuration settings? What should I watch out for? Any specific settings I should set? Safety Tips? 1. Make sure everything polarity sensitive is not backwards before you plug the machine in (stepper drivers, endstops, power supply to ramps wireby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like your extruder or hotend is clogged. have you tried pushing the filament through by hand. Other causes if not that could be that the extruder gear's setscrew is loose and the shaft is just spinning inside to the gear's bore, or the hotend is not hot enough to allow it to go through. Also could be that the stepper drives current is set too low.by Mach - Delta Machines
QuoteTollBoothWilly HI. I just finished assembling my printer 2 days ago and have had fun printing a few things. I did calibrate the axis, but have done no other tuning. All of the settings are the default set in the config guide and presets from Folger Tech. (The guide is here ) A few questions: It looks like in it's current configuration I only have ~150 mm available on the Z axis. Is that nby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus QuoteMach QuoteMrfus wow... there are so many nice looking prints!!!!!! I have being doing some work on a bracket to put a cooling fan in front of the extruder and make pla cool faster to reduce problems with the areas where there are overhang, and I have played a little with the support material setting on Slic3r without too much success , the supports that the software generate are tby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus wow... there are so many nice looking prints!!!!!! I have being doing some work on a bracket to put a cooling fan in front of the extruder and make pla cool faster to reduce problems with the areas where there are overhang, and I have played a little with the support material setting on Slic3r without too much success , the supports that the software generate are too hard to remove andby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteamishboy After getting my printer setup and dialed in and after several prints from SD card i decided to print the auto level parts and get it hooked up. Everything went fine until i plugged in the USB cable to the Mega to test and poof smoke from the arduino. This is my 3rd arduino and second ramps, and i thought everything was great until this, now i wait for another Mega. Any pointersby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetwigtree Something is wrong with the bed on my printer. I can't level it. One side of the bed is too high up, even while the screws are all the way tightened. The other side is too low even while the screws are not tightened at all. I have no clue what could be the problem. My x-axis is leveled. I'm using a glass sheet on top of the heater. The printed parts that FT gives for the bed are knby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants