Quotetwigtree Quotetjnamtiw Quotetwigtree I fixed my LCD not working which was because of a solder bridge on the RAMPS board, and I am now trying to replace the extruder fan with a new one. The extruder fan that came with the kit has started to shake the entire printer causing a lot of noise. I bought a fan off of Amazon and connected it to the power supply and it caught on fire. The wires starteby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Hi all, new member here, first post! I purchased the 2020 based on its popularity on this forum, knowing that if I had a question there would be a whole community with answers. So here I am! Apart from missing SK8s in the kit (Folger sent them out right away after a quick email exchange, thanks Folger!), the kit went together without a hitch. Now I'm starting to do the initial cby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMarkus4e I need help with wiring the stepper motors to the Ramps board. The build instructions show the wires attaching to the board with the green wire being the first starting from the left for all the stepper motors except for the z carriage assembly which is not clear to me. The one picture shows it being held with green wire first, but the other picture shows red wire first while beingby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNeverdone What is everyone using for good bed adhesion? I was having good luck with glue until I switched slicer programs. Now I am having basically none. Parts are printing GREAT but are warping on the bottom side. Would I be better off using tape? I see some people say that works well. I use glue stick with cura slicer. Have you made sure that the slicer program is not starting the pby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSmuggler17 I am so excited, since I just finished my build and first calibration cube. After reading though a lot of threads I was expecting a much worse failure than it came out. With 10% infill the top started to sag and the last corner was torn away as the print finished. Either way, I'm proud of how it turned out so I wanted to come here and share it. Thanks to Folgertech for making suchby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSmuggler17 Quotewatlooazn Guys I really need help. First time builder, half way into building the printer BUT I CANNOT find a way to tighten the m3 nyloc nuts! What tool should I use? Please be precise. Pliers? Ive been trying really hard with pliers but they never get screwed in by me. How did you guys tighten the nut here? And how did you tighten the nut here? Also for this picture,by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThe Sto I'll try that.. The filament is stuck in the extruder, I can't pull it out, and I can't retract it out. I'll let it heat up a little higher and stay at temp for a bit to see that helps. The way that I've unclogged the hotend is to: -lift the X axis up about midway to give yourself room to work -let the hotend cool -cut the filament coming out of the top of the extruder from the resby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThe Sto Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. Iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
So, I found out something interesting about using a inductive sensor for an endstop. You can actually connect the signal line from the inductive sensor directly to the signal pin on the ramps without an circuit to drop the voltage down to 5v. I am using a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX sensor, but who knows if this still works with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY or a capacitive sensor. When you give the sensor 12v, the signal lby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNeverdone So I am getting beyond frustrated at this point. I have had several successful prints and a lot of fun with my printer but have continued issues with the repetier software. Sometimes it crashes when slicing actually almost always then. Sometimes in the middle of a print. Does anyone use any different software? I am very ready to try something different. Unless some one else kby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSlaghton QuoteMach QuoteSlaghton Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend? The throat of thby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSlaghton Hey, I recently replaced my hotend since I clogged it and I was wondering how it was suspending itself before? It seems you can just pull it right out of the extruder like its sort of floating and I feel like feeding the filament is just going to push it out. Thinking maybe I left a step out when retaching the barrel screw with the hotend? The throat of the hotend goes into the sby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus QuoteBert3D QuoteBryg63 My extruder was running the wrong direction on initial start up. I changed the E0 to true from false in config.h to fix that problem as opposed to turning the cables around. Hope that helps... #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false #define INVERTby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Hi all, Last time I posted on this thread I was probably on page 10 or so. I had built the printer successfully and then didn't really use it. I hooked everything back up a couple days ago and started printing a whole bunch of tests and cubes. I notice that my print surface gets rough and has some gaps on the infill. I could be wrong but it seems to do this when the machine isby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBryg63 Hi folks, new guy here- just got my 2020 yesterday, and wanted to thank everyone for all the info and tips! I had a couple small issues, but was able to find all the answers here, or by simple searches. It's up and printing very nicely! Now on to upgrades! Thanks again to everyone, especially therippa for the firmware- Welcome to the threadby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
What problems would you run into if you did auto bed leveling with the X axis endstop on the right instead of the left. I am planning on doing auto leveling, but I do not really want the endstop on the other side. Are there workarounds to the problems, or is it impossible?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus Are the settings for Repetier on the FolgerTech website correct?... I set the settings according to the guide on the website and load the ABS and PLA configurations for Slic3r, I was just wondering if that are ok for starters! From what I saw in them and from what I have heard, the temps that FT has in their slic3r configs are way to high for those materials. As far as the other partsby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNickPeak53 Hi everyone, Here's some info about my setup: Reprap Arduino/ramps Marlin (Folger Tech version) I'm new to this site, though I'm not as new to 3D printing. One problem that seems to keep eluding me is this strange texture I get on the outside of my objects. I can't seem to find anyone else who has had/solved this issue. I'm not really sure how to describe it. It has a textuby Mach - Reprappers
QuoteMrfus I have a couple of questions guys: One, did the LCD display should make a beep or something? I know it works, I got temperature readings, the emergency stop works and some other details but not beep. Second, any of you has upgraded its FT Prusa adding a second extruder? Yes, it should beep, but this may be disabled in pins.h at around line 778. If it is disabled, you can change #defby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSlaghton Ok so I just finished setting up and calibrating my folger tech printer today but it looks like I still have a bit of calibrating left to do but its really close. It seems though that there is some axis thats off or is shifted over that you can see in the picture. I think it got better after I tightened the x axis belt but maybe I need to tighten it a bit more? I have the all axiby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you set the motor to the correct steps/mm in marlin, and then adjust the stepper voltages?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone have an idea what is going on with my lcd controller? I am using the reprap smart controller. I think someone had a similar problem earlier in this thread, but I cannot find the post.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Anybody having issues with ramp board itself? I've been try to troubleshooting my X axis, sometime it moves and sometime it doesn't, usually it only moves one direction. I swapped the driver boards, and swapped X with Y motor & wire and am still having the same issue so I thinking the problem lies with the X part of the board. Maybe a cracked cuz I not seeing any cold or poorlyby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetwigtree There's a new problem with my prints now. When printing, the filament will extrude, but the melted plastic will just be dragged as the print head moves. I think my Z-axis still might be too high, but I'm not sure. I've already tried lowering the speed. Sounds like either your hotend temp is to low, your Z axis is to high, or possibly your bed temps is to low. 185 seems a bit to lowby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteIWantToBeAPrincess Howdy! So I'm on day two of my build and just started on step 6, however I don't seem to have the "3 printed bearing mounts" or anything like it. Am I missing something painfully obvious? There should be in a bag that say "printed parts". The inside cover of the box that the kit came in has a checklist of stuff that was supposed to be included in the box. See if "printedby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetwigtree Sorry that this isn't related to your question, but are the SK8's and corner brackets mounted to your frame? Mine fall out and slide around. Thanks Like Mopar mentioned above, the corner brackets are secured with the M3 (3mm) set screws that are included in the kit with the other screws and such. The SK8s are secured with the 5mm T-nut and a M4 (4mm x 8mm) socket head screw that lby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL QuoteMach QuoteLancelotL Very impressed. I have everything calibrated and tweaked. This is my largest and most complicated print yet. The detail is fantastic. That is pretty sweet. The overhangs that make up the eye sockets look really good too. What layer height did you use? Thanks! I used 0.25 mm. I had some odd gaps between filaments at the honeycomb holes on the very toby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Very impressed. I have everything calibrated and tweaked. This is my largest and most complicated print yet. The detail is fantastic. That is pretty sweet. The overhangs that make up the eye sockets look really good too. What layer height did you use?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemc.ro.lab After I finished my printer within 3 days a few weeks ago, I am really satisfied with this device, the results are o.k. The microprocessor-system runs without even one break-down so far. the printer is recommandable to everyone who wants a good printer for an acceptable price. A few days ago I bought a "riprapdiscount - full graphic display" here in Austria/Europe via an e-store. Iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus I should be getting my printer tomorrow Monday! I tried to read as much as I was able but after page 23 of 58 started getting lost... what are the basic tips and pointers for the assembly? thanks! 1. Make sure to plug in you stepper drives with the potentiometer away from the power connection. Plugging them in backwards will destroy them 2. Make sure to plug in your endstops with tby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants