Yeah, I'm not saying there is any problem with it (and it gets quite confusing for me quickly, which is why I'm designing a cartesian not a corexy ), I was just pointing out that being able to move the 0.9 at "100mm/s" in real space, it will equate to a slower actual feedrate when printing. Just something to be aware of. It was one of the things I considered when thinking about the corexy solutioby n8bot - CoreXY Machines
I have mixed feelings about the concept of 3 point vs 4 point leveling. On one hand, it is certainly dead-simple for 3 points to define a plane, but that doesn't mean that any other number of points can't also define a plane; the plane just needs to be precisely flat to begin with. When using cast aluminum tool plate, the flatness is there, so really 4 point leveling is fine as long as no distorby n8bot - General
I semi-regularly do prints that are longer than 100 hours with a duet 0.8.5 using a heated bed. I've never had the board cause a print failure that wasn't due to a wiring fault of my own. (intermittent external 5v connection).by n8bot - Duet
One thing you'll want to be aware of, is that the corex/y algorithm approximately doubles the resolution of your steppers, so your 100mm/s move is actually 50mm/s in corexy space. I think 1.8 degree steppers would be fine if you find the speed is too limited with 0.9.by n8bot - CoreXY Machines
I've had no errant resets since this, and I've had the printer powered up for over 29 hours with no disconnect and the web interface was connected the whole time. It's possible that the machine reset with a static electricity discharge from me. It's dry here and sometimes I electrocute everything and everyone I touch, and I've had discharges into the nozzle cause resets before. Would this be repby n8bot - Duet
I had a similar problem when I had my motor current idle timeout set too low inadvertently, and the steppers were dropping slightly when the driver reduced the current.by n8bot - Duet
I did not have the USB connected at the time. I did just move the printer around a lot, I should triple check nothing got damaged. I do know that my house, though a relatively new build, has weird power things going on when inductive loads like fans and refrigerator pumps shut off, sometimes causing my LCD TV to momentarily cut-off the display. Although the printer has been running in this envirby n8bot - Duet
Hi, this question is mainly for dc42, or anyone familiar with RepRapFirmware 1.15 beta (downloaded and flashed yesterday from dc42's github). I had a reset happen while the printer was sitting at idle at temp. I'm running a Duet 0.8.5, and just recently updated to the latest beta firmware from 1.11. The only thing I can think that might have changed (besides calibration) is increasing my xyz stby n8bot - Duet
I'm designing a cartesian with a cantilevered Z stage with single screw, twin linear guides, and a cast Al tooling plate as the bed (12" x 12" x 1/4"). According to my fairly rigorous FEA, if I print 4kg of plastic onto the bed, I will see about 25 microns of deflection total (after leveling out the original deflection)... I don't think the plate is too heavy, but the z axis certainly won't be fby n8bot - Reprappers
I get the same thing on occassion. Power cycle usually fixes it the first time. It seems to be when I'm using PID heating immediately after startup, or it was heating and I power cycles and put the heaters right back on.by n8bot - Duet
QuoteI'm not sure you'll be gaining anything by printing the ceramic directly. If you could do it reliably, you'd be replacing an immense amount of human labour or $500k+ of specialized automation equipment.by n8bot - General
How many prints have you completed? Any multi-day prints yet?by n8bot - Duet
The glass transition temperature of PEI is in the neighborhood of 200 degrees+, and does not at all become soft when used at ABS printing temperatures. I haven't taken it above 115, though. I've had no need to. It is also not difficult to remove parts from PEI. The parts adhere completely, and are much more difficult to remove when hot than when they cool down. A large ABS piece that is adheredby n8bot - General
PEI works great for me. I sand the surface with 600 grit paper to increase the adhesion for ABS, and to give a nice perfect smooth but not shiny texture on the bottom. For ABS, the PEI needs to be at a surface temperature right around the glass transition temperature of ABS, which is optimal. The parts don't pop off instantly when they are cool, but can be removed without much effort. The surfacby n8bot - General
I use PEI beds on all my printers and I really couldn't go back to using anything else. I never print with Nylon, but PC does stick to PEI. I don't have a heated chamber, though, so printing with Nylon or PC is kind of futile except for small easy parts.by n8bot - General
If you swap the x/y motors out of an ultimaker 2 (or any other cartesian machine which uses 20 tooth pulleys) with 0.9 degree steppers (vs the 1.8 degree ones) you will double the resolution to 100 microns per full step.by n8bot - Mechanics
Thank you. It was supposed to be full-size, but I underdid it. It's about the size of a woman's head. I'm going to turn it into a silicone mask for my girlfriend as a proof of concept. What I like is that I'm getting the resolution of an SLA printer with a fraction of the cost. Sure, a few more artifacts due to stepper movement and the extrusion process vs chemical curing -- but the cost differby n8bot - Look what I made!
Custom delta printer. PLA. 50 micron layers. 3D scan from some commercial site. Duet/rrf. taking this one way too slowly. 50 hours in right now. bit more to go.by n8bot - Look what I made!
I want to see more. I hope this works out well for you. What size nozzle are you running off the gate?by n8bot - General
I'm excited to see tests of the pancake extruder. I hadn't realized it was untested still.by n8bot - General
Quotethefrog Don't know if this got linked already ... My extruder is down to 160g with steel gears and the Sanyo Denki Nema 17 Motor That pancake extruder is amazing. I bet that would fit on my delta effector. Does it have enough force to push filament through a .25mm nozzle? Where did you source the motor/what are the specs?by n8bot - General
I do have a shorter nema11, also with a 5:1, but the gearbox had a rough spot in it and the motor would stall at that point, even at full current. It likely would work marginally well, but probably not since it hiccupped on the rough spot on the gearbox with a .4mm nozzle. with a .25mm nozzle it might not be great, as this longer one is borderline for .25mm nozzle. The main reason for nema11 wasby n8bot - General
I got my cold end down to 310g. Nema11 with 5:1 planetary gb mated to an ezstruder. Works great, even with .25mm nozzle.by n8bot - General
That is outside the operating temps of almost all of the components on a 3d printer: linear guides, belts, etc etc. You'll absolutely need to get the entire printer warmer than that.by n8bot - General
I'm assuming the Nema 23 and the 32 tooth pulleys are items you already have. If I were you, I'd go for a 16 tooth pulley, and if possible, nema 17s. Unless, of course, you're using nema 23s with a .45 degree step, then the pulley config is about right.by n8bot - Delta Machines
I'm currently very happy with the 1.09k way of handling bed PID (I'm using a 12v heated PCB ). Is there anyway we can be allowed to specify an alternate frequency for that channel? Thanks!by n8bot - Ormerod
Any details on the changes made with 1.09m over 1.09k? Thanks! Edit: nvm, found the thread:by n8bot - Ormerod