Quoterealthor The bowden loop has to maintain the largest radius possible to keep low friction between tube and filament. So best approach I see is having the extruder suspended from the bar, just like with a Delta flying extruder so it can swing in all directions, then somehow spring loading the extruder so that when the printhead approaches the position under it, it will rotate around its X axiby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor The Delta style flying extruder approach is the best for this and I can't really see a way around it. You will have to place the extruders in the center of the -supposedly- square bed and have the bowden length set to a value that would allow printing on the whole bed in one go -imagine a cube encompassing the whole bed- and for that you need a radius of the circumscribed circle toby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I found that video. Someone else posted it on another thread that I had started. Mostly it's about a large Delta but about 9 and half minutes in, he mentions that he used silicone instead of the "fire blanket" and found it much better but he wasn't very specific about what sort of silcone, how thick etc. Anyway, it sounds like you are on the right lines - here is the link . You could use a holby deckingman - Mechanics
If it makes you feel better, that ain't expensive. e.g, here in the UK 20x40 extrusion (V slot that is) is about £5/linear metre so 16 linear metres would set you back about £160. When I was over last Xmas, the exchange rate was about AUD2 to the £ so it works out about $320. Hmmm, I've got 40Kg luggage allowance when I come over in September.......................by deckingman - Delta Machines
Quotemaso It seems to me that you're basically looking to implement the flying extruder that's popular in delta printers. I recently outfitted my delta with one: picture in case you don't know what I'm talking about ...and the spring mounted suspension might keep your issues at bay. The extruders are free to twist and change height based on head position, but don't have to be moved around lateby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
LarsK, I hear you. However, I have a working printer with Diamond hot end grafted on to it so I'm not impatient to get this thing up and running. I'd much rather spend time getting things as close as I can at this design stage, which costs nothing apart from time, than start cutting expensive extrusion only to find that things won't work because the design was flawed to start with. The shower dby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I'd be very interested to hear what other people say to this. I can tell you that I bought a genuine diamond hot end from RepRapMe and the fire blanket thermal insulation frays very easily. Basically, as you say, it's a circle cut out of a woven fabric but there is no hem around the edge (women know what this means, men do not ). Every time I touched it, another thread came off. I ended up plasteby deckingman - Mechanics
Yes, all good points. Lets stick with Bowdens for the moment. I'm leaning towards 3off E3d Vulcan extruders. I guess it would be possible to mount these on to the Diamond but it makes what is already a pretty ungainly thing into a something huge, both in terms of physical size as well as moving mass. So, attached pics show how it might be configured with the extruders static but in the centreby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I'm planning a core XY around a monstrous Diamond hot end. I've started to think about where to mount the 3 Bowden extruders. The print area is 300 x 300 (320 x 340 absolute max) and to get that I've ended up with frame which is 600 x 600. So, it was looking like I'd end with hellish long bowden tubes. Then I got to thinking that the shortest path to reach all 4 corners of the build area would beby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMasterjuggler I'm working on designing a loc-line style duct with multiple hoses coming from the fan that I can orient however I want. If it doesn't work, I'll go with my original plan to use two fans and I just won't use 100% power. That'd be good to see. It's something I've thought about myself. Be sure to post some pics if it works.by deckingman - Duet
Quoteaussiephil Surprised that the video hasn't raised questions or comments in general. I'm not. If it'd been a pile of crap you'd have had plenty of comments. As there is nothing to criticise, there are no comments. Take it as a compliment. (Sorry, that's just an old man getting more cynical every day).by deckingman - Delta Machines
In the bottom right, there is a number "TEAN E120339". Google that. I did it quickly and it came up with a load of images. I just clicked on one of them and it said "MK808B Clone"by deckingman - General Mendel Topics
Here are some pics of my pathetic attempt. The monstrous contraption in white is a Diamond hot end assembly complete with it's heat sinks and bits of Bowden tube sticking out. The belt layout is basically as per the reference mechanism but with one belt higher than the other which means they can cross without interference. At the end of the X axes, the bearings are stacked on top of each other whby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Is it OK if I PM you?by deckingman - Delta Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotedeckingman ...Anyway, the reason for using 1mm pitch is that (as I mentioned), I'm planning on using the lead screws for bed levelling. It may not work but my thinking is that I have 3 point lifting so why not use it for bed levelling as well? If the bed is going to be heated, you're still going to stand it off an undercarriage that's connected to the lead screws.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quoteaussiephil Quotedeckingman Nice one ! Don't suppose you are anywhere near Canberra are you? Depends if you consider Flynn to be in Canberra..... For a Brit, it's in the ACT so that's near enough. My daughter moved out there a couple of years back to be with her Kiwi boyfriend. They were in in Gungahlin but have recently move to Casey. They are getting married in September so I'll be outby deckingman - Delta Machines
Ah, I guess that's what he meant although he said 3,200 steps per mm, not microsteps. Anyway, the reason for using 1mm pitch is that (as I mentioned), I'm planning on using the lead screws for bed levelling. It may not work but my thinking is that I have 3 point lifting so why not use it for bed levelling as well? The more common 2 mm pitch, 4 start screws give an effective 8mm pitch so 0.1mm wilby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Be careful you don't overdo the cooling thing. I "upgraded" the print cooling on my Mendel variant and ran into problems with layers not adhering well. I think my problem was that the cooling air was being directed too closely to the nozzle and the filament was cooling too quickly before it could adhere properly to the previous layer. I'm actually getting better results by turning the print cooliby deckingman - Duet
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotedeckingman Well I've order some Chinese lead screws, 8mm dia 1mm pitch single start. My thinking is that multi start and/or 8mm pitch would be too course for the z axis - we need resolution not speed. I have 1/2" lead screws (yes, imperial!) in the Z axis of my printer and a 20/42 pulley reduction and get flawless prints. You're going to print in 100 um (or more)by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Nice one ! Don't suppose you are anywhere near Canberra are you?by deckingman - Delta Machines
QuoteMikk36 Out of curiosity, those of you planning or already having built the 3-ballscrew with a single stepper Z-axis systems, how are you attaching the pulleys to the ballscrews? Are you just buying a cheap trapezoidal/acme leadscrew with multistart and then machining it to have a smooth bore to attach the pulley to or is there another trick to it? Sure, one option would be to get the ballscrby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotehobbymods Quotedeckingman Quotehobbymods Looking at a 500x500 cabinet footprint I can most likely get a 300x300 platform with a proper corexy gantry and 3 ballscrew Z axis. Yes, that's what I thought too but I've had to increase the size from to 600 x 600 and with that I'll get 320 on the Y and 340 on the X maximum. Mind you, I'm planning mine around a Diamond hot end which, because it haby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotehobbymods Looking at a 500x500 cabinet footprint I can most likely get a 300x300 platform with a proper corexy gantry and 3 ballscrew Z axis. Yes, that's what I thought too but I've had to increase the size from to 600 x 600 and with that I'll get 320 on the Y and 340 on the X maximum. Mind you, I'm planning mine around a Diamond hot end which, because it has 3 heat sinks sticking out atby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Thank you. Looks like 240V AC and a SSR then.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
As title. I'll need a 400mm x 400mm heating pad for the printer I'm planning. I'll be using 24V DC power. I can get a 24V 450W silicone heater. Will this be sufficient or should I go the AC mains / SSR route? The bed will be well insulated and I'll be using an aluminium heat spreader but probably with a removable glass print surface on top. Thanks.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotemaxiboix Hi All, Thank you for replying to me so promptly! So if I were to be using the same two extruders, I should be using V4(in the thingiverse post) where there is no offset right? Is there any other reason besides this for having an offset? Thanks! To clarify and expand on what Mr Peace has just said, the tip of both nozzles needs to be in exactly the same position relative to theby deckingman - Reprappers
Quotehobbymods Seriously, does it take the new guy to say "C'mon kids, play nice with each other. Don't make me come back there"? I think the problem stems from the fact that we have 2 different schools of thought. On the one hand, there are those that build, or attempt to build rugged, reliable printers based on sound engineering principles. Of course there is nothing wrong with that if you haby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Considering the speed, that's very impressive. Definitely something to be proud of.by deckingman - Printing
Quotemaxiboix Hi all, I've just been introduced to the world of 3D printers so mind me if I ask silly stuff. I am currently in the process of assembling a 3D printer myself and have stumbled upon this question. With referrence to this item of thingiverse, (V2 or V5), you will notice that there is a Z offset between the two extruders. May I know what's the reason behind this offset and why itby deckingman - Reprappers
Quotecritical_limit Quotedeckingman Thanks for the tip. My other thought was that as I'll be using 2 print cooling fans, one either side of the nozzle, to just wire them up in series and run the pair off 24v? Or is that a bad idea?e Thats what i'm doing. No problems Thankyou.by deckingman - Duet