One printer built and running, one planned. Web interface only for me, no plans to do otherwise.by deckingman - Duet
Thanks for the tip. My other thought was that as I'll be using 2 print cooling fans, one either side of the nozzle, to just wire them up in series and run the pair off 24v? Or is that a bad idea?by deckingman - Duet
Sounds good. Actually I do have some tiny 30mm centrifugal blowers that I'm planning to use close to the nozzle for print cooling, which I doubt if I'll find in 24v versions. I guess there is nothing to stop me using a 24v to 12v DC converter just for the fans right?by deckingman - Duet
Quotedc42 Not yet. I have yet to hear of a system in which it is not possible to run the two or three Z motors in series from a single driver, although if three motors are used then 24V power may be advisable. I'm thinking of using 3 Z axis lead screws for the printer I'm planning with a view to eventually implementing auto bed levelling at some point in the future when you get around to it. So,by deckingman - Duet
Hey man, I'm just going by the info published on the flex3drive web site. Now you tell me there are other versions but there is no mention of them on the web site. So don't give me this grief... Quote - "you simply can't use one unrelated design to make assessments about another design like that. logic does not compute, captain." End of Quote. The "unrelated design" is the only published desigby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Have you seen a Diamond hot end with the way the heat sinks are angled outwards? I initially started with an outside frame of 500mm x 500mm size hoping to achieve 300mm x 300mm printable area. I want to keep all the motors inboard in case I decide to enclose the thing at some stage and soon realised that there is no way I'll get that print area. So I've upped the outside frame dimensions to 600x6by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Ahh. I remember reading that now you mention it but I didn't bother to glue mine - just did them up good and tight and so far, never had a problem (and I've been using 3 of them with Diamond hot end). I agree though that it is a potential problem which is easily alleviated by using a hobbed bolt rather than a hobbed insert.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 If you have money to spend, then the E3D Titan extruder may be worth trying. It too has 3:1 gearing. Just looked - 45 quid a pop plus £4.50 for a bowden adaptor plus VAT and I need 3 of them! I think I'd rather spend the £178 on a Duet plus expansion board. Methinks the RRP geared jobby will be the way I'll go. Thanks for the info about 3:1 vs 5:1 gearing - something I hadn't consideby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Super glue and threaded parts? I think mine was different - here is a link to the assembly instructions for the ones I got Thanks for the suggestions though - I'll take a look.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Yes, you are probably right. As this is still a design exercise I'm making provision for X and Y tabs for the probe. The X tab is adjustable in both the X and Z directions to allow for build tolerances and variations. The Y tab is adjustable in all 3 axes. (Using V slot or T slot extrusion for the frame makes these things easy to do). I've also incorporated provision for a Y microswitch so I haveby deckingman - Duet
The trouble is if you break the glass, I doubt the silicone heater will come off so you'll need to replace that as well. Personally I have 2 or 3 pieces of glass which clip on top of the aluminium heat spreader. So at the end of the print, I can unclip the glass, fit a new one and start printing again without having to wait for the bed to cool to remove the "just printed" object.by deckingman - Reprappers
@dc42. I'm not sure using the probe for homing all 3 axes is going to be viable in this particular instance. The reason is that I'm design the printer around a Diamond hot end which, because of the 3 heat sinks angled out at 27 degrees and set in a circle 120 degrees apart, makes it quite wide in every direction. This is coupled with the fact that I want to hang the entire thing between 2 horizonby deckingman - Duet
I'm working on a design for a largish Corexy that will use a Diamond Hot End, for which I'll need 3 Bowden extruders. My current printer is a RepRapPro Mendel tricolour (with Diamond hot end) and I have to say that the RRP extruders have worked flawlessly over many hundreds of hours. So I was thinking of making 3 more of those but as I'm starting with a blank sheets of paper, I thought I'd just aby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 Quotelkcl here's a photo of the proof-of-concept (1-in-2 scale) which took only a couple of hours to mock up, and, importantly, allowed things to be "moved" so that they could be verified as having the right amount of travel and clearance: A concern I have with that photo is that the belts are only going round the motor pulleys for about 90 degrees. Is that really enough, especially ifby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Ref noise. Get some Sorbothane sheet - most HIFi dealers sell it. Cut into squares and put one under each leg - you'll be amazed at how much quieter it is.by deckingman - General Mendel Topics
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'll bet those vacuum clothes storage bags would be good too, and reusable, unlike the food sealer option. I can say from experience that they are! Don't get massive big ones, I found the best size to be about 70cm x 50cm and you can can get 4 to 6 reels of filament in each. Buy thick ones (min 110 micron). I also put some colour changing silica gel in a mesh bag insideby deckingman - Printing
Quotebgkdavis Sorry didn't realize it was a gantry design .... of course, if you start homing at Y max then that 10mm will crash the limits.... Yup, done that !by deckingman - Duet
Yes, I don't know what you've got there but it's nothing like the tricolour upgrade I got for my RRP Mendel 3. What I got was basically 2 additional extruders, identical to the original, 2 additional plywood mounts, also identical to the original. 2 extra quick set nozzle assemblies. 1 extra hot end cooling fan and associated nuts, bolts cables, bowden tubing etc.by deckingman - General Mendel Topics
Thank you. I have an original RRP Mendel tricolour which uses the RRP probe for Z and X and a micro switch for Y - it sounds like the Ormerod is the same. RRP recommended painting the x tab white but of course theirs was a different probe but that's why I asked the question. If I locate the X tab on the end of the X axis (a la Mendel), and the Y tab somewhere in the middle of one of the font or rby deckingman - Duet
@dc42. Just ordered one of these for a corexy that I'm planning. I'm thinking of using it for homing all 3 axes. The hot end will move in the X and Y directions only, the bed will move in the Z direction. Question1, I'm assuming that the X and Y tab surfaces can be simply printed PLA, is this correct? Question 2, how accurately would the tabs need to be positioned in the Z direction, relative toby deckingman - Duet
Quotedc42 Even if you don't need to do bed levelling because your bed is flat and the gantry rigid enough not to sag by more than 0.05mm as the head moves, a Z probe is still useful to establish the Z=0 point just before starting the print. Making the probe removable adds more complication, and IMO is pointless when the on-carriage probe weighs only 2g. I agree. Also, even if your bed is levelby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'll be using smooth pulleys made from F608ZZ bearings. A 40 tooth pulley is about 25 mm diameter. F608ZZs are 22 mm diameter. That stuff from SDP/SI is a little tricky to interpret. When they say "idler" pulley they seem to be talking about things like pulleys used to adjust belt tension- idler arc of contact should be minimum? Hmmm. I've seen other info (can't fby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Yes, two-level belts. Attempting to set approximately equal tension on both belts at the same time might require me to grow and extra arm or two. It's OK- the screws will attach the belt clamps to the inside of a rectangular aluminum tube and prevent it from going anywhere. I'll countersink the holes to force the screws to center themselves in the holes. May I ask wby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quotedeckingman The rods will be two at each of the front corners at one in the centre if the back giving 3 point lift. Initially the rods will be connected buy a belt and driven from a single stepper but the longer term plan is to have each one driven by it's own stepper when DC42 gets around to incorporating bed levelling by controlling each individual Z rod. niiice. ok you don't neby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl so what do you think, deckingman - two pairs of aluminium square-section (2 for x, 2 for y), 12 or even 15mm square, you'd need 12 bearings to support the carriage on double-v-wheels. don't be tempted to make it less, i know people have tried to put the upper v-wheels on the x and the lower v-wheels on the y, then use a small amount of bend in the bars to keep the carriage stuck toby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl so, i know it's a long way down now from the original question, but to reiterate, i think relying on there only being one y-rod is not sensible, although i am aware that the quadrap does that, but they (and the ultimaker) both have belt arrangements that support the moving cross-rods at both ends. the corexy belts would support the x-rod, but the y-rod would be free and could move offby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Ref your OP. I think I see where you are coming from with this, trying to spread the load more evenly by adding central support to the carriages. However, as I understand it, one of the primary advantages of the corexy design is that it offers the potential for greater speed because all the motors are static and not fixed to any moving axis. Therefore the moving mass is reduced allowing for greatby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Duet X4 gives 4 extra steppers doesn't it? If my new TBA printer had 3off Z steppers, and 1 off for each x and y that makes 5. Then I'll need 3 extruders for the Diamond hot end making a total of 8 steppers. A Duet 0.8.5 plus a Due X4 will give me total of 9 possible therefore it's doable yes? My RRP Mendel 3 uses 2 off Z steppers but they are wired to the same channel (at least I think they arby deckingman - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Using 3 independently-driven Z motors to do bed levelling is on my todo list for RepRapFirmware. I can't say when it will be implemented because my priority at present is to finish the firmware for the next-generation Duet. That's interesting. How would one wire 3 Z motors to the Duet for independent control?by deckingman - Delta Machines
QuoteMaye I will try that. It seems counter-intuitive to use less retraction when trying to avoid defects, but as my experiments with increasing retraction hasnt exactly helped(anything from 1-6mm even) I would say that its worth trying at least. I will also investigate over-extrusion as well. Well you said in your OP that "They (the defects) appear where the printer stops to move the z-axis up.by deckingman - Printing