Quotedavedavedave Hi, Ive been wanting to cut some 8020 with my 14" chop saw. but am not sure what blade to use. ive been reading about some bladfe with 108 teeth that can do the job with minimal or no lubricant if not forced of course. whats the best way to do it with a chop saw? anyone know of any blades? for non ferrous of course. thnks A multi purpose saw blade will do the job. They'll cut wby deckingman - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotedc42 Quotebgkdavis The problem I have with mixing extruders is I've yet to see a slicer package that can make good use of them Of course if/when they become popular then Im sure the slicer software will follow That is certainly a problem at present. Also I hear that the mixing in the Diamond is not perfect, so the colour of the print when mixing depends somewhat on the printing direction.by deckingman - Delta Machines
Most people print PLA at between about 190 and 205 degC. If you have to push it up to 235 then I suggest there is something wrong with your hot end and/or thermistor. 70 deg C bed temp is way too high for PLA IMO. You could print PLA on blue tape with no heated bed. Generally you use build tac or blue tape with an unheated bed. Generally you only need a heated bed if printing on glass or glassby deckingman - General Mendel Topics
QuotePRZ Most defaults values added on the wiki here : Brilliant !! Thank you.by deckingman - Duet
Quotedc42 Quotedeckingman Quotedc42 RepRapPro wrote the original version of RepRapFirmware, so the default steps/mm is correct for the MXL belts and pulleys that their kits used Ah, now it makes sense - wish I'd read this before I posted the last comment. So, is there any way of finding out what the default values are, as it seems pointless adding gcode commands to config.G if all they do is mirby deckingman - Duet
QuoteMaye Hello everbody. My printer keeps giving Me these weird defects. They appear where the printer stops to move the z-axis up. I have tried to correct it, but I dont understand what is causing it. My settings are: In which case, my best guess is that it is retraction settings as most slicers default to using retraction on layer change. For small objects such as that shown, you might getby deckingman - Printing
Quotedc42 RepRapPro wrote the original version of RepRapFirmware, so the default steps/mm is correct for the MXL belts and pulleys that their kits used Ah, now it makes sense - wish I'd read this before I posted the last comment. So, is there any way of finding out what the default values are, as it seems pointless adding gcode commands to config.G if all they do is mirror what is set by defaultby deckingman - Duet
Quotebgkdavis Quotedeckingman My guess is that RepRapPro didn't want anyone playing around with these so they are hard coded somewhere?? RRP had no interest in such protection, and did nothing but encourage people to play around with the settings. Just looked in the config.g for my Mendel 3 and your correct whilst there is a M92 in there for setting the extruder steps per MM, but none for theby deckingman - Duet
QuoteKoko76 All of the settings for your duet are in config.g in the form of various g codes. Have a look at the file and then compare what you see there to the wiki page on g code commands here. You can figure out what each code does and learn a lot. Of course Dave is correct with m92, but you may want to look into what some other stuff is as well, might discover something useful you didn't eby deckingman - Duet
I have duet electronics which I inherited with my RepRapPro Mendel 3 kit. I'm toying with the idea of building another printer, possibly corexy and it will most definitely use Duet electronics with dc42s excellent firmware and chrisshams excellent web interface. Now I've changed various things in my config.g such as tool definitions, extruder steps per mm etc and I note that there are also settinby deckingman - Duet
QuoteIMBoring25 Separate heaters do have benefits, too, though. You can't print different materials with wildly different extrusion temperatures through a Diamond. I do PETG over PVA on mine from time to time, and the PETG extrusion temperatures would clog the nozzle immediately once PVA started going through. Well I must confess I haven't tried different materials but I can't see why it wouldby deckingman - General Mendel Topics
QuoteDavid J Amoniak - are you thoroughly confused yet? I think deckingman is saying the same as me - pick a simple design, have a go at building it, make some mistakes and try again (and again), and gain experience as you go. Go 'advanced' later on. Note: Like him I'm a '60-something' tinkerer who loves building things: I knew nothing about 3D printing 2 years ago, and since then I've had aby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
QuoteGaou you have some serious updates there . how much better is the diamond and the E3D v6 from the original quick set hot end ? Also the multiple extruder is the best update that someone can do in my opinion....! . keep it coming. I found the original single quick set nozzle worked fine. The problems came when I upgraded to the Tricolour with 3 nozzles. 1, The nozzles are offset from eacby deckingman - General Mendel Topics
@ Amoniak, Don't be put off by some of the comments you've received. It's the same with any hobby, there will always be those who say you need to spend at least 10 times what you had budgeted and anything less will be a complete waste of time and money. If you are into photography, you can take great pictures with a £250 Canon EOS 1200 D camera or you can spend $50,000 on a Leica M9 P Hermes ediby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I bought a RepRapPro Mendel around the middle of last year so it came with Duet 0.6. Then towards the end of the year, I upgraded it to a Tricolour which meant adding RepRapPro's shield and the two additional extruders and hot ends. Since then, I've fitted a Diamond hot end. I designed a mount for the Diamond hot end which fits on the existing X carriage and which also has a bracket to take the mby deckingman - General Mendel Topics
Quotelkcl yeahhh i've worked in the building trade, too: i thought about that, but i wondered how the two strips could be tied together in sufficient tension. then i realised, if they cross in the middle maybe you could tension them up... but then.. mmm... how do you equalise the tension in a precise, known way? if you get it wrong you'd actually end up doing more harm than good. yes, sure yoby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 Quotedeckingman That's looking good. I'm looking to build another printer but my main requirement over the Mendel3 I have at the moment is extra height (a lot of extra height). I looked at Delta designs but I'm using a Diamond hot end so mounting the 3 extruders while keeping Bowden tube lengths manageable becomes difficult. The Bowden tubes on a 3-extruder delta don't need to be any lby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
All good stuff. That's very encouraging and thanks for the links. Although I build garden decks for a living these days, this is career number 5 (or 6 or 7 - I've changed tack so many times I've kind of lost count). However, when I first started work in 1969, it was as an apprentice tool maker and I spent about 30 years as an automotive engineer in one form or another. Although that was a veryby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
That's looking good. I'm looking to build another printer but my main requirement over the Mendel3 I have at the moment is extra height (a lot of extra height). I looked at Delta designs but I'm using a Diamond hot end so mounting the 3 extruders while keeping Bowden tube lengths manageable becomes difficult. It strikes me that a corexy design might be the way to go. I don't have the skills to deby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
A bit late now that you have placed an order but I have a Diamond hot end which uses 3 off E3D Lite heat sinks. The makers of the Diamond stress that it is very important that the Bowden tube is cut square and goes right to the very end of the heat sink. Just leaving a small gap of 1mm can cause a cold spot and consequent jamming. Some users have reported filament leaking around the heat sink thby deckingman - Printing
Er, I don't have a problem with PLA clogging the hot end. I never did with the original hot end supplied in the Mendel kit by RepRapPro. Then I upgraded it to a tri-colour with3 hot ends - still no clogging. Since then I've changed again to a Diamond hot end (3 filaments, 3 heat sinks, one nozzle and heater). Still no clogging - even when mixing filaments (all 3 extruders running at different speby deckingman - Delta Machines
I've been thinking about this some more. My main requirement is for extra height over the Mendel design that I have now. One of the issues of course, is that I need to use Bowden type extruders with the Diamond hot end, so a tall Mendel would mean really long Bowden Tubes. As I understand it a Delta design gives extra height and also faster speed, and with flying extruders the Bowden tubes couldby deckingman - Delta Machines
QuotePRZ Found a video with A diamond on a Rostock max : and flying extruders ! Good find! Looks like it might be doable then.by deckingman - Delta Machines
Update - from the Wiki, Quote.............. Weight of assembled hotend: 250 grams (nozzle, HeatSinks, cooling shield, fan, heater cartridge & thermistor) ...........End of Quoteby deckingman - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 It's common practice to fit the extruder drives on the towers, so you could fit one on each tower. With any luck, the sideways forces exerted by the Bowden tubes will mostly cancel out. To handle the extra mass of the hot end, you might need to use thicker than normal carbon fibre tubes. 6mm tube is commonly used, and I use 7mm tube on my delta. How is the Diamond normally mounted toby deckingman - Delta Machines
I've managed to graft a Diamond hot end on to my RepRapPro Mendel 3 and got it working quite well. I've been using colour mixing to create some quite nice looking vases but I'm limited to about 140mm in height. I know next to nothing about Delta printers and was kind of wondering about the practicalities of grafting a Diamond hot end onto one. It's quite a heavy beast as it takes 3 E3D heat sinksby deckingman - Delta Machines
Hi Tom, I'm just an old guy and by no means an expert but I've built a Mendel from a kit and got it working quite well so I'll help if I can. First off, is the picture you posted taken from the top of one side? What do you mean "the first few layers go down perfectly with no clicking sound"? Are you saying that when it goes wrong, there is a clicking sound? If so, where from? I'll assume thaby deckingman - General Mendel Topics
Quotefrankvdh Looking good. What were the basic filament colours you mixed? Blue, Yellow and Red. Starting with 100% Blue then mixing Blue and Yellow (which gives green), until Blue was 0% and Yellow 100%. Then mixing Yellow with Red (which gives shades of Orange) until Red was 100%. Then mixing Red with Blue which gives a sort of muddy purple until Blue was 100%. That's 300 layers or 90mm. Thby deckingman - Look what I made!
Following on from the other two "300 colour" thingy's, I decided to try RepRap.Me's suggestion of using translucent filament to get around the "stripey toothpaste" effect. I can confirm that it works. That is to say that the colour appears the same all around the object. Unfortunately something bad happened about 10mm short of the intended height and I had to abort the print (which is a bit ofby deckingman - Look what I made!
Quotedc42 Quotedeckingman Quotedc42 If your Duet came from RepRapPro, it's a 0.6 board. See for a list of differences. Thanks. I got an expansion board from RepRapPro when I upgraded to a Tricolour. I'm guessing that must be the Duex4 that is mentioned in the blog? RepRapPro just called it an expansion board. Is your mini IR probe the same one that RepRap Pro used and which I got with the kit?by deckingman - Duet