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Re: J-Head Mk 8 -- Small batch for sale - 8 years ago

Quotereifsnyderb In addition to being the best hot-end for printing PLA, Any proof to backup that claim? I can't say I've had any issues printing PLA with my genuine E3D V6 all metal hotend. What makes your J-Head any better for PLA?

by PDBeal - General

Re: non string pla? - 8 years ago

What does your tool change code look like? I've seen a lot of people saying to reduce the stringy part, you either do a very short move very fast, and then slowly retract the rest of the distance, or vice-versa. I can't remember which, but I know I read quite a bit about people would do a retract of 2-3mm or so at once speed and then do the rest of the retract at a different speed to control ho

by PDBeal - Reprappers

Re: Extruder feedrates maxed out somewhere? - 8 years ago

At 2700 steps per mm, you might be looking at the maximum processing power of the 8-bit Arduino Mega processor not being able to generate things faster.

by PDBeal - General

Re: BLTouch for Z sensor - 8 years ago

I painted one side of my PEI matte black and then stuck it, painted side down onto my piece of glass. The PEI surface is exposed for printing on, and has a nice black surface before the glue. The IR trigger from DC42's IR boards trigger sooner than when it did on plain glass now and I've not had any repeat-ability issues with it on any one of the 3 machines that have the PEI bed.

by PDBeal - Duet

Re: Is it possible to print honeycombs for bees - 8 years ago

Quoteo_lampe I'd like to test it in my garden for wild bees etc. Is there a chance to build a bee hive for wild bees? My neighbor did exactly that. He found a wild bee hive in the woods behind his house. He built them a box, and sure enough they moved it. A great side affect was my fruit trees in the backyard blew up with fruit the following years since it was so close to the hive. I think h

by PDBeal - General

Re: E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago

Quotemrmuffin The new probe is glued into a M3 nut which is then screwed into the heater block. I am sure that the thermistor is reading properly in it's current position. I also tried printing PLA and got the same results. The heater is able to reach the right temperature yet it cannot keep it there once the print starts. If I stop the print though, the temperature will begin to rise back to the

by PDBeal - General

Re: Nozzle size vs speed - 8 years ago

Quoteo_lampe QuotePDBeal You might have to crank the temperature up 10-15 degrees when you try and print faster as the plastic will spend less time in the heater block section. The volcano should have the thermistor closer to the nozzle instead of close to the heater element. It's this hysteresis, why you crank up the temp for compensation. IMHO the best position would be on the bottom left corn

by PDBeal - General

Re: Nozzle size vs speed - 8 years ago

You might have to crank the temperature up 10-15 degrees when you try and print faster as the plastic will spend less time in the heater block section.

by PDBeal - General

Re: Nozzle size vs speed - 8 years ago

It's also going to depend upon how fast your extruder motor can feed plastic. If your using a volcano nozzle setup, I know the geared extruders have issues with very high speeds which is why E3D's Titan extruder has a 3:1 ratio to be able to keep up. I can also imagine an 8-bit controller might have issues with high speeds if your using a lot of microsteps.

by PDBeal - General

Re: Prusa or CoreXY for Diamond hotend? - 8 years ago

One thing I really didn't like about the D-Bot was it's use of plastic corners. If your going 2020, you really should have metal on metal for a corner.

by PDBeal - Reprappers

Re: Prusa or CoreXY for Diamond hotend? - 8 years ago

All of mine are the ALU version, especially considering I can buy the ALU from Misumi for about $25-30 for the entire machine pre-cut and all I have to do is tap the center hole and drill a few holes.. With the Bowden setup on them, I don't see any ringing while printing at 60 mm/s. On the Titan extruder ones that are direct drive, have some ringing at 60 mm/s, but nothing at 50-45 mm/s. DJDem

by PDBeal - Reprappers

Re: Prusa or CoreXY for Diamond hotend? - 8 years ago

I'm not going to recommend you actually purchase the Smartfriendz Smartrapcore ALU kit (primarily due to the state the kit arrived in my case with mismatched designs/parts and other people have had similar issues), but all of it's design is up on Onshape and could be easily copied and modified to fit your diamond hotend setup. The design itself is very stable, and with a few modifications upgrad

by PDBeal - Reprappers

Re: Software to make a simple box? - 8 years ago

QuoteJamesK OnShape is hard to beat for a free service. The only concern is if they ever go bust and all your designs disappear with their servers. Fingers crossed they continue to prosper... They recently changed their free account, which means they weren't getting what they wanted in terms of paid accounts. They also keep trying to call my office in an attempt to get us to move from Solidwork

by PDBeal - General

Re: Why is V-slot so much more expensive than T-slot - 8 years ago

I would assume volume at this point. T-slot is more widely used than V-slot, and V-slot seems to be relatively new.

by PDBeal - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Not able to upload .ino to my Anet A8 - 8 years ago

Does the temperature increase the moment you turn the printer on, or only once you start heating the extruder? If it heats up the moment its turned on, it could be a shorted component on the board that is causing the heater to be powered.

by PDBeal - Reprappers

Re: Marlin help/advise - 8 years ago

Does the stepper motor have a plug in cable by chance? I've run into an issue with some of the cables will loose contact with a pin which means you loose a motor pole pair which will stop the motor from turning and it'll just buzz grind or hum. If you check with a multimeter that you have and ohms reading between the pairs. You should have two wires together will give you an ohms reading, and

by PDBeal - Printing

Re: DWC not accessible through wired LAN PC - 8 years ago

What IP address did you give your Duet 0.6 board? Is it in the same subnet as your D-Link router in 192.168.0.1?

by PDBeal - Duet

Re: I need a 4mm Bowden tube push clip, but I'd rather print it...? - 8 years ago

I think this is probably what your after. and if your in the US, Filastruder.com has these items too.

by PDBeal - Object repositories

Re: The Filament Roller, An IR Filament Jam/Runout Sensor and Alarm, Automatically Pause Your Print, Compatible With Marlin 1.1.x, OctoPrint, and More~ - 8 years ago

Based on the pictures, it appears to be massive in size and really only suitable for your reel stand or a bowden type setup. It doesn't appear as it would be easy to mount on say an E3D Titan extruder unless you had it in the bowden configuration. And your board/kit looks like it relies on a reel be supported by the flange which is not really the best method of holding a payoff. Realistically,

by PDBeal - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements

Re: surprised to see nothing on "abs" in search - 8 years ago

Quotetechristian I was surprised to see nothing on "abs" when I searched here. From what I understand, using ABS rather than PLA can be a big pain and requires a new approach. I'm considering making a plexiglass enclosure for my Prusa I3 Reprap printer, just to mention one change. Dan I don't think the search function actually works with 3 letter words. At least every time I've tried it return

by PDBeal - General

Re: Haunted Delta - 8 years ago

You said your using the DRV8825 chips, and there is a known issue with those at some speeds. See the following article, it might shine some light into your issue. DRV8825 missing microsteps

by PDBeal - Printing

Re: Trouble updating - 8 years ago

Out of curiosity, how often does that iap4 file need to be updated? I can only remember one instance you suggested doing it, but this has me wondering how often it gets updated. I'm also hoping when an update is required you'll be including that note in the firmware update notes?

by PDBeal - Duet

Re: Remote Direct Drive effectors for E3D Chimera / Cyclops (Zesty Nimble et al) - 8 years ago

So looking at this it does look interesting. However, when I was using the E3D Chimera hotend, I had issues with the idle nozzle would rub and scrap across the top of the layer that was currently being printed by the non-idle nozzle. This lead to some failed prints as well as determining the start height for z=0 extremely temper-mental. Primarily because you have to be close enough to squish t

by PDBeal - General

Re: Has anyone used the all metal corexy from smartfriendz? - 8 years ago

I saw that design a month or so ago. However, based on the state of the kit I bought with the whole confusion between direct drive and Bowden and the crappy performance of extruder design, I wouldn't recommend that to anyone as a complete kit. It looks interesting, but I'm doubtful it will be delivered as a full kit without issues and recreating some of the metal parts could be tricky. Just becau

by PDBeal - Smart_Rap

Re: Electronics for a new design? - 8 years ago

One thing you should research before purchasing any electronics 32-bit or 8-bit is the firmware development. The Ramps/Mega combination has multiple firmwares to choose from although most are not fully released and always in a state of release candidates. I'm not sure if those MKS Base boards use the same firmware or not. The Duet boards are 32-bit and have excellent firmware support from DC42

by PDBeal - General

Re: 15kg of filament for sale!! CHEAP!! - 8 years ago

Quote3dprinteronlinestore 3d printer filaments for sale at best price. https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/consumables $48 for a spool of PLA is not a best price. I find eSun and Hatchbox filament on Amazon to be priced much nicer around $25 and I know the quality of those filaments are excellent and easy to work with.

by PDBeal - For Sale

Re: Titan tension adjust - 8 years ago

With PLA, I've had pretty good luck with the Titan setting the hex screw in line with the middle bar. If you look at the clear side of the Titan, there are 5 bars and behind the bar you can see the hex nut. For Ninjaflex, I had some issues getting it set just right, but with PLA I've not had any issues with grinding or printing with the hex nut behind the middle bar. I still have to give Nylon

by PDBeal - Printing

Re: Print is Starting to high!!! - 8 years ago

You need to duct the cooling fan away from the heater block. You might be able to wrap the heater block in kapton tape to insulate it from the cooling fan airflow, but the real solution is to duct it from blowing onto your heater block or don't use one.

by PDBeal - Printing

Re: Print is Starting to high!!! - 8 years ago

If you have done the auto tune on the PID, does your temperature decline line up with a part cooling fan turning on? If not a part cooling fan, you might have a loose connection on the thermistor.

by PDBeal - Printing

Re: SD card slot on TFT 5 or 7" - 8 years ago

Or, the icons your using for paging and selecting the SD card are very similar. Would it be possible to make the SD card selection button use the same icon that you use on the button on the Control page?

by PDBeal - Duet